Intense German rieslings

I want to talk about 2 German rieslings that I had over the weekend that left such an impression on me.

I've always loved German wines, rieslings, as well as Austrian wines, gruner veltliner. It's the balance, the acidity, the complexity, and the minerality that just makes them so unique. Been looking forward to get into some of these wines in depth, so very excited to taste these two wines.

The first was a 2006 Furst Lowenstein, Hallgarten Schonhell, QmP Riesling Kabinett, from the Rheingau. Young wine.

Light colour, but intense nose. Citrus and honey. Wonderful acidity and backbone, tempered by the slightest amount of residual sugar. Perfect balance. Tastes a bit tart and tough compared to the 2002 we had later, but definitely will age very well. Long, mineral laced finish. Wow.

The second wine was a 2002 Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Ockfener Bockstein, QmP Riesling Kabinett, from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. I don't have a lot of experience with older white wines, so this was exciting. But then again, 2002 is hardly an 'older' vintage.

Deeper colour. What an intense nose! Lots of yeasty aromas, mineral, tropical fruits. A wild, wild wine. So big on the palate, creamy and filling, with the perfect balance of acidity and sweetness. And by the way, for a Kabinett, this was much sweeter than I expected. But a gloriously long, minerally/citrus finish. An exceptional wine, very unique, very interesting.

---

Looking forward to trying more of these wines. As I've said before, I really believe in Niagara rieslings, so definitely want to experience more of their Old-World influences. Also want to begin buying some of these German rieslings to put away, as clearly, they can age so well.

Post No. 101

This is my One Hundred and First post here. Looking back on my last 100 posts, it's interesting to see how everything's developed, and everything that's happened. Promise to write more regularly. Wrote more in July than I have in any other month, and I want to keep that up.

Again, I know that outside of my group of friends, no one reads this. And even then, I know that there's only a handful of people that regularly come back, so thanks very much for the support. I'm not out to get a large following. This is personal for me - I just feel like it's good for me to keep a written record, to see how my palate develops and things like that.

Has my palate changed since I started writing here? Definitely, yes. I drank a lot more wine in my 4th year in university, which was a big help. Really broadened my experiences. Also, learned a bit more about the industry. Following Bordeaux and other industry news very closely now. And clearly the most important, started going up to Niagara every couple of months, to visit the properties and engage in dialogue with them. This is an exciting new region, producing quality wines, and I want to witness every single step.

So what's up for the next 100 posts? I don't know. Will definitely be talking about Bordeaux futures when the prices come out, and I start making my buy list. Also, planning on drinking a few interesting things later in the year, during the holiday season. Definitely will visit Niagara again sometime in the fall, and visit some new properties. So, a lot of exciting stuff. Thanks for reading, please visit often.

Contrast in styles and attitude

Lately, I've been drinking a lot of rieslings. Not that I've suddenly fell in love with them - it's just that the weather's inducing me to drink more white wines, and I was really impressed with the quality of Niagara rieslings, so naturally, I want to explore more of them, in particular those from Germany.

Let's start with a comparison of two New World rieslings. One, a Finger Lakes riesling, and one, a Niagara riesling. Both regions claim to produce world class rieslings, so let's see if it's true or just a load of shit. And excuse me once again for the atrocious pictures.


First bottle - a 2006 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, NY. We had this wine at Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine (click to read my post). I was told this producer was the best in the region at producing rieslings, along with Dr. Frank, so I was excited. Also, it was $36, so a reasonable markup.

Let me get straight to it - I was disappointed. Americans like sweet things. Sweet, cloying, obnoxiously simple wines. This was anything BUT a dry riesling. And not that there's anything wrong with that - most German rieslings are slightly sweet. I expected some residual sugar, but to me, this sweetness was unbalanced. Adequate acidity in the wine, but it was more than overshadowed by the sugar. Other than that, some minerality, some tropical fruits, not a lot of complexity, I just don't see how this is the best Finger Lakes riesling. Cloying in the throat.

Don't get me wrong, it's a well made wine. It's just I don't see any regional typicity, not a lot of character. I can think of several rieslings we tasted on our last Niagara trip that easily are more memorable than this one.

The next bottle was a 2006 Flat Rock Cellars Riesling, VQA Twenty Mile Bench. This is their estate riesling, $17.35. As you know, I really love this producer, especially with their pinot noir. I've also tried their unoaked chardonnay, which was interesting. I tasted this riesling at the winery, and came away very impressed. I was hoping that it would show even better in the bottle.

This is still very young, and for me, the acidity levels in Niagara wines make them excellent candidates for aging. Would have loved to taste this wine a few years down the road, but couldn't wait!

On the nose, a lot of varietal characteristics - fragrant, grassy, petrol - everything you'd associate with riesling. So fresh on the palate, but with excellent weight and presence. Nice creaminess, but none of that obnoxious flabby quality you get with over-manipulated white wines. Just delightful. And the finish!! A long, crisp, dry finish, that cleanses your palate so nicely. A subtle sweetness that lingers, definitely makes you reach for another mouthful.

---

So, it should be pretty obvious which of the two wines I liked more. Niagara wines are much truer wines - true to their variety, true to the land and climate. There isn't over-manipulation, which I loathe. Just an honest interpretation of the fruit, in a style that isn't designed to be mainstream and bland. A uniquely made wine, that forces you to pay attention.

Of course, the Finger Lakes riesling has its good qualities as well - it's just that it's an ordinary wine. Its the same as any ordinary riesling produced in Australia, California, wherever. The future of New World riesling? Niagara, Ontario, Canada.

Just one more lot

Added one more lot of wines to my 2006 Bordeaux Futures orders. I know, I just can't help it. Damn, it's not even like I actually have any disposable income. Anyways, been looking at this estate for a long time, and very excited to have a couple more bottles coming in.



It was a lot of 2006 Ch. Chasse-Spleen, AC Moulis. Not a very well-known region of Bordeaux, but this estate has a reputation for high quality wines, and that's all that matters. Oh, and I saw a video of the owner somewhere. Very eccentric looking, but he looks like someone who understands fine wines.

Just a little hangover

The moment I cleaned my wine glasses and brushed my teeth last night, I could feel it. Shit, I feel kind of drunk. Not the kind where you want to puke everywhere - not yet. Just tipsy and getting very sleepy. Tried to sleep it off. Still a bit hungover right now. Trying to drink lots of water.

Wow...the wines we had last night were surprising. Great wines - a Mosel Saar Ruwer and a Rheingau. Both riesling kabinetts, and quite light - 8% and 11% alc. So how did I get so pissed? Don't know, maybe just out of practice.

What a boring life

I am so bored. No money, no action, nothing. I'm even running out of wine! I don't know how things can get any worse.

There's no more red wine in the house. Just one more bottle of 2006 Flat Rock Cellars Nadja's Vineyard Riesling, and a 2007 Ch. d'Aqueria, AC Tavel. And a lot of scotch and cognac. And about 1/4 bottle of that port left. Oh my goodness.

Some things to look forward to though. Next LCBO release has some of that Lailey pinot noir that I really love. And also, the Beijing Olympics are starting soon. I'm opening a Champagne to celebrate - a Chapuy Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs.

Anyways, that still doesn't make my life any more exciting. Oh my goodness, this is getting pathetic. I'm going downstairs to have a sandwich.

Decanter Magazine

I've always loved reading Decanter magazine. In general, I find British wine writers to be of a much higher quality than American. I just like their perspective on things. They never have to prove that they know what they're talking about, unlike Americans. They just write about the wine.

Anyways, subscribed earlier this month - it's pretty expensive, so that's why I was holding off. Maybe because they mail it from the UK? Two years. I bought the June issue, and the July is on newstands. However...I didn't know until today that my first issue won't be until September. So I'm going to have to buy the July and August at Chapters. I don't mind though. Just reading Michael Broadbent's piece is worth the price of the whole thing.

Wine-drinkers

I plan on drinking every single bottle of wine in my cellar. Every single bottle. I don't collect - I have neither the finances nor the foolishness to do so. To say you collect wine is such a disrespect. You drink wine, not display it as a showpiece.

Wine loses all its value as soon as you open the cork. It's just an agricultural product, after all. And there will always be another vintage, and another vintage after that. I keep wine to track its aging, and experience it in different stages of its maturation. I don't understand people who explicitly buy wine as an investment. Probably the same kind of prick that introduces themselves by their business school degrees.

Enjoy wine! It's for drinking. I love appreciating the colours, the aromas, the complexities of wine. And sometimes, I just love getting hammered off a good bottle. So stop analyzing it like a stock and stop treating it as such. If that's the way things are heading, with more and more people investing in wine instead of drinking, then we're f*cked.

Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine

I have to talk about this restaurant we ate in at the Finger Lakes. It's called Suzanna Fine Regional Cuisine - country dishes, beautiful farmhouse dining room, friendly staff, and the most important, fresh local, seasonal foods.

I heard about this restaurant from a couple of places. It specializes in regional foods and produce. Whenever I visit a place, I always want to eat local foods. How else are you going to get to know a place until you eat food that's been grown and raised there?

It was an easy drive, and the restaurant looks over Seneca Lake. A beautiful farmhouse. Our server was such a sweetheart. For dinner, we ordered 2 salads and a corn soup - for entrees, a pork tenderloin, duck breast, and cod. For wine, a 2006 Hermann J. Weimer Riesling. Everything we ate was from the region, it was fresh, and it was in season. Perfect. I enjoyed the food. Not inexpensive though. Simple, country dishes, nothing fancy. And I mean, nothing fancy. The food was so fresh, the cuts were top quality. And that's all you can ask out of a restaurant. Very impressed. Really got a taste of the local produce. Interesting experience.

Here's a couple of pictures of the outside and the dining room. If you're in the area, make sure you visit.

Taxes and tasting in an uncivil manner

Writing about Shalestone got me worked up about something. I purchased 2 bottles of Shalestone wine - the Cabernet Franc of course, as well as the Merlot. The merlot was a bit too soft for me - pleasant but a little soft. My father wanted it, so we got it. Definitely would have prefered to get 2 bottles of cabernet franc, but I wasn't paying.

Anyways, I thought that we could bring 2 bottles back to Canada, no problem. Turns out its only duty free if you've been away for at least 48 hours. The wines cost $43 in total, but the customs duties were $28.53. How does that make sense? Punishing honest Canadian citizens just for buying some wine? A really negligible amount, if you think about it. It's not like I was bringing back 20 cases. Just 2 bottles, between 3 people. This is why all this talk about economic closeness between the two countries is absolute bullshit, because everyone just wants to make money, even if its off their own citizens.

What I was a bit disappointed about was that there were so many people visiting the wineries that you never are able to engage in a real dialogue with the staff. Its nothing more than a tasting bar - they pour you the wine, then they have to move on to the next group of people.

Unbelievable. I'm sure it'll be better after the summer tourist season passes, but it's such a different experience than being in Niagara. I'm not plugging for Niagara, but Ontario offers such a better experience. I'm leaving out the commentary about loud, obnoxious, boorish Americans, but you get the idea.

Shalestone Vineyards

When I was researching which wineries in the Finger Lakes I was going to visit, the name Shalestone came up quite a bit. It had the reputation as producing the best red wines in the region, so of course this was going to be my first stop. Quite wary of claims like this, but eager to taste and find out.

The winery is on a stretch of nice road parallel to Seneca Lake, on the east shore. The winemaker, Rob Thomas, was pouring, and he was a very personable guy. Really likes to get to know the people who come into the winery. And the flow of people coming in never stopped.

We tasted through all thes wines. The wine list is below. I can do without all the colourful descriptions, but it shows the personality of the winery.

The wines had a common character to them. They had had lovely, aromatic noses, with lots of character and varietal typicity. The were dense, very focussed wines, with a clean, long finish. Purity and silkiness, but with enough stiff structure to hold its hold up. Wonderfully made wines, really exceptional. I fell in love with the cabernet franc. Really, I don't think I've tasted a better cabernet franc outside of the Loire Valley. So rich, but not over-manipulated. The density and clarity of the texture is amazing. As yet, this is definitely the best cabernet franc in the New World.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to taste the pinot noir. We did taste the pinot noir rose, but I wanted to try the red wine. And also, they didn't have a 100% syrah. Would have been interesting to compare it with the Lailey syrah.

Overall, Rob makes excellent wines. Focussed, honest wines, just like the winemaker. Brave and unapologetic about the fact that this is riesling country, and people don't really expect great red wine to come out of the region. That's why you have to keep an open mind about wine - you never know what to expect. As far as Bordeaux-style blends and cabernet, Shalestone is definitely one of the best. I can't stress that enough, how happy I am to have visited this winery and to have tasted Rob's wines. Just incredible wines. Everyone in Niagara who says they make great cabernets - you need to taste Shalestone wines, because this is the benchmark that EVERYONE should be aiming for.

The winery and production facility entrance:

Back from the Finger Lakes

Returned from the Finger Lakes today, one day ahead of schedule. Just wasn't really feeling the area, or the wines. No point in staying another night.

Not that I really dislike the place. It's just - something. It doesn't give me anything to be excited about. The place is like the wines - little to no character.

Drove all day today, about 500 km. Very tired. And to make things worse - we got taxed at customs. For the wine we bought back. A grand total of 2 bottles. TWO f*cking bottles! Unbelievable. Judging by how aggressively the Cdn government goes after its own citizens, they do a pretty f*cking shitty job at stopping actual felonies. I mean, if they went after real crimes like they go after taxing petty purchases, we'd be living in an exceptional country.

Anyways, I'm still hurting over the $28.53 in taxes and fines they made us pay. Will post up some pictures tomorrow. Don't plan on getting up until at least noon.

Not impressed...at all

I'm sitting in our hotel, in the Finger Lakes region. We visited a couple of wineries, tasted about 30 wines. Not that many, but enough to get an impression of the region. And I'm not impressed. With the exception of Shalestone Vineyards, the wineries here make flabby wine, for learning disabled drinkers.

Very happy with what I tasted at Shalestone. Not only was Rob friendly and genuine, he was honest. That's the most important thing you can ask for from an owner/winemaker. Honesty. And on top of that, he makes magnificent red wines. The cabernet franc was so impressive. Dense, focussed, tight and hard. Just delicious. As were all his wines, from his Bordeaux blends to his merlot. I had hoped to taste his pinot noir, but it wasn't available. Also, I would have wanted to try his syrah, if he made a 100% varietal. Just for comparison with the Lailey Syrah that we tasted last month.

Americans have a very different idea about wine than Canadians and Niagara winemakers. I don't want to call it flawed, but they just value different things - I think it's not the proper approach, but who am I to pass judgement? And another thing that really pisses me off... They insist on having you pay for tastings! It's so foreign to me, because Niagara wineries never ASK for payment. Even if I don't buy any wines, I feel like there's no obligation. I try to engage the people at the winery in dialogue about their wines, about their philosophy, and I never feel forced to buy wine. You feel that pressure in the Finger Lakes. It's a horrible feeling - especially when this rabid bitch chases you at the door to pay $4 for a tasting of wines, that were genuinely quite f*cking horrible.

I will post some pictures tomorrow. Really surprised by Shalestone, really grew attached to all their wines. Compelling, well-made, honest wines. And I have to post some pictures of the restaurant we had dinner at.

Anyways - at this point - I want to get out of here. This place jsut doesn't hold up to Niagara at all, in any way. No way. Any one of Thirty Bench's wines will knock these so called "top riesling estates" out. You're kidding me right? Feeding me this bullshit about how Finger Lakes makes world quality riesling? Give me a f*cking break.

The Finger Lakes

Just finished planning out a route for a road trip. I'm going up to the Finger Lakes, in New York State. Don't really know what to expect - to me, this is just another one of those cookie cutter tourist spots, like a cheap version of Niagara Falls without all the casinos. Wow, I probably offended some people saying that. Sorry.

Visiting some wineries, of course. Going to Shalestone Vineyards, Hermann J. Wiemer, Miles Wine Cellar and Attwater Estate. Don't know any of these places, or what wine they make. This list was made based on recommendations, so I hope they turn out to be nice.

Stuck in middle-aged tourism hell for an entire weekend.

Buying large format bottles

All the bottles of wine I purchase are standard, 75 cL bottles, because of space and financial restrictions. I'd really to start looking into larger format bottles, such as magnums (1.5 L), double magnums (3 L), or maybe even bigger. That's because they look impressive, and I do believe that they age better, under the right circumstances of course. Also, if you're looking to buy wine to commemorate a special occasion, I think large bottles are the way to go.

I was thinking this when I got an offer from LCBO to buy large format from Ch. Pontet Canet. This estate is a Cinquièmes Crus, from Pauillac. What was the only thing stopping me? Money, of course. It's always about money.




Definitely, in the future, I'll purchase large bottles. Just waiting for the right occasion, the right price, and of course, the right cellar conditions. And of course, lots of wine loving friends to share it with. After all - is anyone even physically capable of downing a magnum of wine, no matter how good, and still remember what it tastes like?

Are we alcoholics?

You know the single rationale I've heard the most about why I shouldn't get into wine? The argument that I hear constantly and has been most consistent? That I'll become an alcoholic.

First off, let me say, shut up. Honestly. There's several people who I'll take that kind of criticism from, but most people have this perception of me as some out of control binge drinker. So for those people, don't make judgements on me until you understand exactly what kind of person I am, and what wine really means to me.

It's like someone who's really into collecting stamps. They can spend countless hours and thousands of dollars buying up stamps, and the most people will say about them is, "Oh, they're really dedicated to their hobby. That's great." I spend the same effort on wine and the reaction I get is "David, you're liver is going to rot."

I don't buy that argument. First of all, I appreciate the wine - not the alcohol. Big difference. Alcohol is just a natural part of wine, but I don't derive any pleasure from getting piss drunk. Maybe a little from getting buzzed, but definitely not getting drunk. And come on - alcoholics get drunk off of cheap vodka. If I were going to get drunk off of wine everyday, I'd piss all of my money in 2 weeks.

So don't judge people if you don't really know what they're about. Learn about wine first, and then judge me. I'll tell you right now - the vast majority knows nothing about my hobby. It's like me criticizing a scientific paper. I might hate the guy who wrote it, but the material goes way over my head. What kind of dumbass would take me seriously?

My interest in wine is personal, and no one else's business. I don't go around telling you how you should spend your money or what hobby you should pursue, and I don't appreciate it when I get judged. If wine intimidates you, then stay away. Leave me alone. If I hear this shit again, I swear I'll lose my f*cking mind.

They're coming!

Got an email from LCBO that brightened up my day a little - and then I thought about it in closer detail. LCBO announced today that they're releasing their 2007 Bordeaux Futures catalogue soon. Very very exciting news.

So...that means I'm going to have to start saving up. Spend less. Drink a bit less. I need money!!!!!

Breaking shit

My friends will tell you that I buy a lot of wine glasses, as well as break a lot of them. Maybe that's the reason why I buy so many in the first place. It's frustrating to break a glass I really like, but I've learned to accept it as one of the hazards of my hobby.

Crystal is just too damn easy to break. I thought it was because of the stems, so I got a couple of Riedel's "O" series glasses. They're the ones with just the bowl, no stem. But.......my father still managed to shatter one of those, so that argument has been proven wrong.

Just recently, my mother broke one of my favourite glasses. It's a standard size bowl, tulip shaped. I love it because I drink it with everything - red wine, white wine, Champagne, port, eau-de-vie - everything. So now I only have 2 of them left, and no hands or lips but mine are going to touch it.

Is there any way to prevent this? I don't think so. Except maybe I should buy glasses by the dozen. Or I can just drink wine out of a bowl, like we did in 2nd year. We were so desperate.

Flat Rock Clone

When we were in Niagara, we had dinner at a place called On the Winery. It was a great place - simple, rustic foods, very fresh, and in season as well. The wine we ordered was quite interesting. It was the 2004 Flat Rock Cellars Clone 667 Pinot Noir.

I've seen these clone bottles at LCBO before. They were offered in a box of four, with four different clones of pinot noir. That's really interesting - I suppose they were experimenting with which clone worked best and decided to bottle for it, for fun. When you taste them side by side, they're just so different.

I'm quite familiar with Flat Rock's estate pinot noir, so I was looking forward to this wine. It's much more herbaceous, and has an interesting minerality to the wine. But a problem I'm noticing in many of these wines, is that they're quite soft. This doesn't apply to just Flat Rock, I noticed it with a 2004 Malivoire Pinot Noir as well. These aren't very old wines, but are softening up already. Can't say for certain if this is really the case - there's too many variables, like storage conditions, my taste buds........yes, maybe it's just me.


This bottle was interesting. I can imagine this being one of the wines the blend to make their estate pinot noir with. Fascinating.

2007 Bordeaux En Primeur

There's been a lot of industry talk about the 2007 Bordeaux vintage. A lot of American writers have written the vintage off. Even the Asians aren't a sure bet to buy. So hopefully, that'll translate into lower prices, because I feel like we've been spanked around by the 2005 and 2006 prices.

But the power is all up to the Bordeaux estates. We really don't have a say, because I'm sure there'll always be a market for top end Bordeaux, regardless of price. It's getting quite ridiculous - I still can't wrap my head around the idea of a triple digit bottle of wine. I mean...it's a perishable drink!

I will be so happy if prices went down. I'm hoping for at least a decrease of 30%. The vast majority of people are ignorant, and will run away as soon as they read about critics panning the vintage. That's what I'm hoping for. Come on, how many of these people can really distinguish the difference between vintages anyways? Give me a break. You're not going to buy because Wine Spectator says it's been a bad year?

If that's the case, and prices are down, it'll be good - for me. A lot of more reasonably priced wines I can buy. I have a list of wines I want to look at. It'll also be a good time to look at some of the more top level producers. After all, this is a vintage to drink while my 2005 and 2006s mature.

My wish list:

Ch. La Lagune
Ch. L'Arrosee
Ch. Chasse Spleen
Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou
Ch. Canon la Gaffeliere
Ch. Smith Haut Laffite
Ch. Suduiraut

I also want to take a look at some of the dry white wines. But mainly these. So, I'll be watching for the prices very carefully. I'll keep you updated.

Assembling verticals

I have loyalty. It's a trait that I really admire, and one that I really try to adhere to. So it goes without saying that there are several wine producers that I'm loyal to, and whose wines I'll keep trying to buy.

Currently, there are 4 estates whose wines I'm buying with every release. Two are from Bordeaux, the third is from Champagne, and the fourth is a Rioja.

The oldest bottle of claret I've drank is a 1986 Ch. La Lagune, AC Haut Medoc, Troisieme Cru. I've always felt a connection to this estate. So far, I have the 2004, 2005, and 2006 vintages. The 2006 I have yet to receive, as I bought them last year as futures. Regardless of price, I'll be buying the 2007 en primeur. Hopefully, I'll be able to build a nice vertical.

From the right bank, I really love Ch. L'Arrosee. I've drank the 1992 vintage, which was quite spectacular. So elegant. I have in my cellar the 2003, 2005, and 2006 vintages. I'm waiting for LCBO to release the 2004 vintage and I'll also be purchasing the 2007 en primeur.

I've always been trying to pick up every vintage bottle of Pol Roger Champagne. I have the 1996 and 1999. It's something about Champagne that really excites me. Maybe it's the bubbles, but it's also the intensity and focus of the wines. It just embodies pleasure and celebration.

Rioja has always been one of my favourite red wine regions outside of Bordeaux. A producer I've been following is Bodegas Lan. I have the 1999 Reserva, the 2000 Gran Reserva, and the 2001 Reserva. Obviously, it'd be ideal if every vintage was a Gran Reserva, but it's just not the case. They make elegant wines, which I think age wonderfully.

So there you have it. Maybe as I go on, I'll find other producers that I really love, but for now, these are the ones that I'll be working on.

Mojito

I only drink 2 cocktails - one of them being gin-tonic and the other being a mojito. But then again, every man should drink gin-tonic...that just goes without saying.


But mojitos - I just have a weakness for them. Where did this even start? I think I just heard the name randomly, got a little curious, and ordered it the last time we were in Panorama. Wow, that was a while ago. Going on 2 years.

It was delicious. Clean flavours - the acidity of the lime with the crispness and freshness of the mint balances the drink. Of course, you need a good punch in a cocktail, and the rum does a great job at that. The drink is all about balance and complexity of flavours. Everything just works so well together, accentuating each other, instead of trying to outdo one another.

After much experimentation, over the course of last summer, I think I make the best mojito in the Northern Hemisphere. No lie. Here's what I do.

The Tools:




Use a lot of mint. Just use the leaves, about 12 of them.

In a highball glass.

Add fresh-squeezed lime juice. Must be fresh, I can't stress that enough.

Muddle.

Add a full glass of ice, preferably in tiny cubes.

Add Perrier.

Add simple syrup. It's called 'simple' for a reason - just sugar and water.

Add premium, aged rum - not that cheap shit, not that spiced shit, none of that nonsense.

Stir.

No straw.

The Masterpiece:




The key is freshness and quality. The lime juice and mint must be fresh. The ice must be distilled water. The syrup must be made with cane sugar. The sparkling water must be spring water.

And the rum has to be premium, oak aged rum. I use 12 years old Nicaraguan rum. To me, the vanilla and the richness from the oak balances it out so wonderfully. This pictures shows a drink I made with Havana Club Anejo Blanco, a white rum. More herbaceous, more of an alcoholic kick to it. But I definitely prefer the aged rum.

As for proportions, that's up to you. If you like lime, use more lime. More sweetness, then add more syrup. I love a strong drink, so instead of 1 ounce of rum, I use 2 1/4 ounces.

Of course, no straw. You don't want people to think you're a pansy, do you?

Too many people go out and drink cheap shit just for the sake of getting drunk. You're putting this stuff into your body - if you're going to get drunk, do it with quality and style.

Colheita Port

After dinner with the Mouton, I opened a bottle of port that I just bought a few months ago. I've always been fascinated with port, with its history in particular.

This was a 1980 Kopke Colheita Port. From what I understand, Colheita Ports are the rarest of all ports, making up only about 1% of Portugal's total port production. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this. In any case, this wine is rare! This is because of the extraordinary amount of time it spends in barrel. This bottle for instance, wasn't bottled until 2007, making it 27 years in oak. It's been in oak longer than I've been alive.

I also picked up a bottle of the 1981 vintage. Just because.

I'm drinking a glass now, so I can tell you that it's a dark amber, very caramelized, very deep. It just fills the room with warm, toasty aromas of toffee, caramel, butterscotch, chocolate - I can keep going on and on, it's just so complex. It's magic in the mouth. Rich and velvety, the sweetness is just perfect. Not cloying, but teases the mouth just so. The finish is magnificent - crunchy wafers and dried fruits, it's smooth, and stays hauntingly long in the mouth. Glorious.

A Grand Wine

Two weeks ago, on a Saturday, I had one of the great wine experiences that I'll keep looking back fondly on. We cooked a big dinner, lots of fresh local produce, and of course, I opened a very grand wine.

For dinner, a 1991 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, AC Pauillac. Now, I understand 1991 was a horrifically awful year for Bordeaux. But there really aren't many times that I have the opportunity to drink mature claret, much less a Premier Cru, so this is a blessing.

This bottle was a gift from a dear family friend, and quite frankly, my idol. I really respect and look up to him, so you can imagine how excited I was when he presented me with my first Mouton. The bottle was in great shape, which is a testament to his great cellar, and how he cares for his wines.

The cork was fine for its age. Didn't break at all, coming out cleanly. The print was still legible, no rot, nothing. The wine looked remarkably young in the glass. Still a ruby red in the center, with just the slightest brownish orange tint at the outer rim. Just a slight variation in colour saturation.

It was the nose that threw me off. It smelled...oaky, with hints of cabernet character. Just hints. And in the mouth - this overwhelming acidity, no doubt an indication of climate conditions in 1991. Thin, insipid. But it was after an hour that it really started to show why this wasn't just an ordinary claret.

The wine developed this spicy, mocha character that was so warm and inviting. It really gained weight in the mouth, and richness. And the sweetness! My goodness, it became just so sweet and so delicious. The acidity was there, making the finish a bit disjointed. But what a glorious experience. This is truly a Grand Wine - there simply aren't many wines that can develop and change character so dramatically in the glass. And it kept developing throughout the night. When I finished the bottle about 7 hours later, it left this deep, warm, earthy aroma that filled the room and filled, sincerely, my soul.

You really get the character of Mouton in these wines. The warmth and mocha aromas from the soil. The high acidity from the vintage conditions. Such a transcendant experience. I'll be lucky if I ever experience something like this again. Definitely one of my top wine memories.

Update

I understand it's been 2 weeks since I last wrote. I apologize because honestly, it's not like I've been doing anything productive over this period of time. It's probably just because I like binge-blogging. So here we go. Get ready for 5 posts a day.

By the way - I'm drinking a 1980 Kopke Colheita Port while I'm writing this, along with a chunk of nice, rich gouda cheese. I'll talk about the port later...it's just stunning.

Been doing a lot of reading, jogging, drinking. Actually, I've been drinking some pretty interesting things. And I finally, finally subscribed to Decanter magazine! The greatest wine magazine in the world. Hands down.

Reading and beginning to research about the 2007 Bordeaux vintage. Don't know if I'm prepared to buy en primeur this year. Will have to weigh my options, but something tells me that I won't be able to resist getting my hands on Ch. L'Arrosee, Ch. La Lagune, and Ch. Chasse Spleen.

Storage

This Monday, I packaged up all my wine and moved them to a friend's place for storage. I'm very grateful to this friend, for offering a safe haven for my babies. My cellar is all empty now, with the exception of 4 bottles of white wine, 4 bottles of red wine, and 2 bottles of Colheita Port.

The temperature and humidity levels in my house just were terrible. It was too hot already, and was prone to wild fluctuations. Something had to be done, or I would have had a cellar of very expensive balsamic vinegar.

I had a few boxes I saved from my Vintages purchases, but not enough. Went to LCBO to get a few more, and came back with 8 boxes, enough for 120 bottles. About right - it sounds like a lot of wine when I tell my friends I have around 100, but really, for wine drinkers, it's pint-sized.

I had to record everything in my inventory notebook, to make sure I knew exactly how many were going away. Then, into the box, where I wrote on the top side the names from left to right. Because if I were to pull a few bottles, I don't want to empty the entire case to find the right one - I need to exactly which slot it's in.

I put away all my 2005 Bordeaux. I still have a few lots that I havn't received yet, which I've been told will arrive in late summer. The ones I put away are:

2005 CH. Rauzan Gassies

2005 CH. L'Arrosee

2005 CH. Coutet

and a few other Bordeaux from other vintages.

After I had packed up about 8 cases, I turned around to see this:

Still more work to do. In total, it took me nearly 3 hours to record, store, tape, and label everything. In the end, I had 10 boxes of wine ready to move.

The move was successful, not too back-breaking. I did all the lifting. 10 times, up and down those stairs. Just can't be too careful. Overwhelmingly, my bottles are French, Bordeaux and Champagne, with a number of Sauternes. But I'm starting to accumulate some nice Niagara wines as well. The one thing I'm going to work on next - German and Niagara Rieslings.

Now, I'm all out of wine. I probably won't touch anything until at least Christmas, at which time I'll hopefully have a job and be able to double the number of bottles I have. I still have the CH. Mouton Rothschild at home, as well as the 1980 and 1981 Kopke Colheita Ports. Looking forward to opening them very soon. Finally, my wines are now able to rest and begin developing their magic.

Some outstanding wineries

As I said earlier, we visited 11 wineries in Niagara, tasting 88 wines. We got a pretty comprehensive idea of the kinds of wine the region is producing, so here is each winery broken down. Just wish I had pictures, but don't worry - they will be up soon.

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

This was a first estate of the day, and we had a tour booked. Great view, looks directly over the vineyard and we can see Lake Ontario in the distance. First was a flight of Rieslings. I've tasted the 2006 Thirty Bench Reisling in the past, so really looking forward to this. As expected, they were phenomenal. Absolutely stunning in clarity, purity and focus. Lovely piercing acidity, this is not a wine for flabby drinkers. My favourite was the 2006 Small Lot Riesling "Steel Post" Vineyard. Wonderful minerality on the nose, which follows in the palate, complemented so well by the bright citrus and acidity. All the white wines share this amazing finish, tight and crisp, but so long and elegant. Class in a glass.

Of the red wines, I have to say they were unspectacular. Good wines, mind you, but unspectacular. It was unfortunate that we weren't able to taste the Pinot Noir, which had sold out. But I enjoyed the 2005 Benchmark Red. Complex and nutty on the nose, it had nice grip and weight. What was also special was the 1995 Riesling Icewine we were served. This is by far the oldest icewine I've tasted, and it still holds up quite well. The sweetness is more controlled, more focused, and you still have the lovely stream of acidity to balance it out.

Walking around the vineyard, the soil is a lot of heavier soil, clay. All this rain can't possible be good, but then again, it's still early in the growing season. Let's hope for a dry and sunny July and August, otherwise there will be trouble.

I'm writing a lot because this was such a magnificent producer. What a wonderful surprise. Beautiful wines, honest wines. The whites definitely stand out; by far these are the finest Niagara Rieslings I've ever tasted. The only question is - how well do they age? As long as we have these kinds of producers in Ontario, then our wine industry is in good hands. Magnifique!!

Fielding Estate Winery

I've never tasted this wine before. Going through all the wines, the wines seem a bit too soft for me, but nonetheless, are delicious. The 2006 Riesling Icewine Reserve stood out. Taut acidity, nice fruit, a more measure sweetness. Good balance.

Cave Spring Cellars

Again, a new winery for me. We tried a lot, but one wine really stood out. The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Niagara Peninsula. This is the unoaked Sauvignon Blanc - they also make an oaked one. I always disliked heavily oaked wines period - you really need to strike a very careful balance, especially with white wines. This bottle was fresh, crisp, and most importantly, had such varietal characteristics. You lose so much of the delicacy when you overoak. Wonderful.

Flat Rock Cellars & Malivoire

What more can I say about these 2 producers, except that they are exceptional and my favourites. The Pinot Noirs they make are very close to my heart. Wonderful to see the evolution in their vintages, as these are fairly young producers. Friendly and knowledgable staff, unpretentious. These producers are true to the land and are really the benchmark that every other Niagara winery should set themselves against. I can't wait to taste the 2007 Pinot Noirs from each estate.

Lailey Vineyard

We had another tour booked here. We were taken to the vineyard. More of the heavy clay soil we say earlier around Beamsville in west Niagara. Introduced to some of the customary pruning techniques of a vineyard. I love walking in vineyards. That to me is the most important part of a wine. I love nothing more than to be in the soil and vines. The spritualness of being surrounded by what will eventually transform into wine is........indescribable.

Tasting barrel samples was quite another experience. We were given barrel-fermented chardonnay samples to try, which was still sur lie. Some old vine chardonnay samples were also drawn for us, which was so delightful. Minerally and stony, it just washes your palate with a light creaminess, but the finish just cleans out your palate so well. We also tried some 2007 Pinot Noir from the barrel. Still very raw, the tannins are long, hard and quite excellent. Tasting barrel samples is so different - it's the texture you should focus on. I really want to taste the 2007s in bottle, but obviously, they still have some more time to go in barrel. Wonderful strawberry and red fruits in the mouth, such a transcendant acidity and tannic structure.

Finally, we tried samples from bottle. Lailey is doing some really interesting things with red wines, especially their Syrah. So spicy, obvious black pepper on the nose! I've never smelled so much black pepper on any syrah. Wish it was a bit more integrated, than in your face, but certainly an interesting expression.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

The rest of the wineries we visited, I won't mention too much about. Nothing really stood out. Sure, everyone was friendly, with the exception of one, but I'm not going to talk about that. Learned my lesson to keep my mouth shut.

So, if you're planning a trip down to wine country, make sure you visit these wineries. The only one not in Beamsville is Lailey, which is right on the Niagara Parkway, 2 minutes outside of Niagara-0n-the-Lake Main Street.

If anyone still thinks that Niagara can't produce quality wine, you've obviously never tasted any good wine before, and you're just being ignorant. I understand the perception, especially if all you've had is that cheap, mass-market shit. But take time and try these small, artisanal producers before you pass judgement. I guarantee you will change your mind.

Niagara, in detail

Let's get to it. Overall, I was very impressed once again by the quality of all the wineries we visited, and of the Beamsville region in general. A lot of honest winemakers who believe in nurturing the land in a natural, traditional way.

By far, this was the most successful of my trips down to Niagara wine country. We visited 11 wineries, tasting 88 different wines. We came away with a better and clearer picture of the direction that this region is going, and definitely learned a lot.

It's clear that the strength of Beamsville is in its white wines. Riesling wines are the best I've tasted outside of Germany and Alsace. As a matter of fact, all of the wineries we talked to stated that their inspiration for Riesling was Alsatian wines. No one mentioned German rieslings, although the styles are similar. I suppose this owes to the region's stronger French influence.

The Rieslings were taut, crisp and focused wines, featuring high acidity, minerality and lengthy finishes. The best examples were wonderfully pure, and had great varietal characteristics.

We also tasted some great Chardonnays. The best examples also showcased crisp acidity, as well as subtle buttery/creamy textures on the palate, all complemented nicely by bright fruit flavours. The worst were overoaked, excessively buttery and flabby wines. Apparently, some winemakers still are not lovers of subtlety.

Of the red wines, I remain skeptical of the quality of the Cabernet blends. I just don't think this area is well-suited for Cabernet. Just can't get them ripe enough. With the exception of Marynissen, I don't feel anyone else makes a presentable Cabernet. Well - Thiry Bench had a fantastic Benchmark Red blend that I found quite complex and interesting.

We tasted some wonderful Pinot Noirs. Now, I've been going on and on about how great Niagara Pinot Noirs can be. Definitely, this trip just confirmed that in a perfect world, this is the red wine that everyone in Niagara should be working on.

As a whole, I have to say that while Niagara wineries are producing better and better wines, I still think they have a long way to go. The problem is expression. Can the wines express their regional typicity? Can we get to the point where I can drink a bottle of wine that is unmistakably from Niagara? These things take generations to achieve. The majority are still experimenting with technique and process. That's the hard part - deciding how to vinify, choosing when to harvest, which oak to use.......simply installing the latest technology and equipment won't do.

I'll post detailed impressions of each winery when my friend makes the pictures available to me. I can say that with the exception of two wineries, the other 9 that we visited were all special. All very unique, each specializes in the type of artisanal, low-yield wines that I love.

Again, I'll repeat that I really believe in this region. Niagara is able to produce really special northern climate white wines, as well as Burgundian varietals. It'll be interesting to keep following this area as it grows. When we can finally begin to talk about Niagara terroir, that's when I'll know that this region has grown up.

Niagara, briefly

I don't have a lot of time, so I will be brief. Our trip to Niagara yesterday was amazing, and again I came away amazed at the development of the region.

Undeniably, the whites all sparkled yesterday. There's no doubt that the region produces transcendent Rieslings for sure, as well as some good Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. As for the reds, Gamay and Pinot Noir stood out. But then again, each producer had a unique style and flair, that really can't be summed up in a general statement.

Tomorrow, I'll write up a more complete set of thoughts and observations. I'll go through our tasting methods as well as impressions of each specific winery we visited. There was a troubling aspect in one of the tastings, which I'll describe. Otherwise, it was a successful trip.

We engaged in a lot of dialoge with the wineries, and we gained a lot in terms of their philosophies and methods. I learned a lot, and this definitely was my best trip up to wine country yet. I'll also post some pictures of our visit, which I'm sure you'll enjoy.

Niagara wine tour, June 2008

On to more happier things. I just finished planning out a wine route for a trip up to Niagara again with some friends. I have a list of 10 wineries to visit, and I've booked tours at 2 of them. Should be extremely interesting and educating.

We will be visiting:

Thirty Bench Wines
Angels Gate Winery
Fielding Estate Winery
HIdden Bench Vineyards & Winery Inc.
Malivoire Wine Co, Ltd.
Tawse Winery
Featherstone Estate Winery
Cave Spring Cellars
Thirteenth Street Wine Company Corporation
Lailey Vineyards

We have tours at Thirty Bench and Lailey. I've had wines from both estates, and I've enjoyed them both. Really exceptional character to these wines.

With the exception of Lailey, all the wineries are located in Niagara West, or the Beamsville Bench appellation. I really believe that this area produces the best wine in Ontario, perhaps even in Canada. Really hoping to get out into the vineyards and taste their entire lineups. Hopefully I'll be able to get some dialogue going, and get a feel about the philosophy behind each winery. Please check back for my thoughts when we get back!

Australian garbage

I wrote a few days ago that I had one bottle of Australian red wine in my cellar, a bottle that my father had bought a few years back. It was a 2003 shiraz/voignier blend, from a well-known producer. Won't name it, because it honestly isn't worth it. The 2006 vintage sells for $27.95. From what I remember, we bought our bottle for around $30.

The particular cuvee did have a cute name - "The Laughing Magpie". To me, this just reeks of corporate marketing bullshit.

I was hoping that this wasn't going to be a generic, overriped, monstrosity of a wine. I was so wrong. It was inky, black, dense, thick - all the things that scares me. The alcohol was chokingly overwhelming. Huge fruit, that saturates everything. Alcohol that hides the tannins. Disgusting.


This wine falls apart very quickly. These is no cohesion, no integration between the components. It quickly breaks down into this hideous oakiness and bitter tannins. So much extract, it's like you're eating jam.


There's no character to these wines. And that's what pisses me off. About New World wine in general. This is not for eating with a meal. This is a cocktail wine, for those yuppie pricks who think they understand wine. THIS IS NOT WINE!!!!!!!!!!!


This garbage is vile and has no soul. If this is the direction that wine is going, then I'm going to lose my f*cking mind.

Finals embarrassment

I've been watching the NBA Finals pretty closely, and after watching Game 6, I'm kind of disgusted at the Lakers. Not just with Bryant, but everyone on that team. It was just a disgusting show of bad body language, bad attitudes, and a slap in the face to their fans.

How do the Lakers make barely 40% field goals and only have 2 boards? How does Gasol only get 7 shot attempts? And how does Bryant disappear after an amazing first quarter? You know what this is? This is a pathetic lack of effort. It became very clear after Game 1 of the series, and I'm quite surprised that the Lakers won 2 games at all.

Originally, I had the Lakers win in 6. I was so wrong, especially thinking that Bryant was going to go off for 50 at least twice in the series. The man has demonstrated that on the biggest stage, in the biggest games, he is not a leader. How does someone with so much talent cruise through such an important game like that. There were several sequences when all 5 Lakers were spectators. Go after the damn ball!

I don't buy any of that shit about Bryant leading by example and being a much better leader this year. If he really wanted to inspire his team, attack the rim, pick up a few hard fouls if you have to - just do something. Don't glare and bitch at your teammates for screwing up, after you've overhandled the ball so much that there isn't much of a play to run anymore.

Gasol was equally as disappointing. I've never seen a bigger pansy. He's the kind of guy with great offensive talent, but no leadership and no sense of responsibility. It's his game - when he turns the ball over, he makes sure to point at a teammate, to make it clear that it wasn't his fault. He pointed at Odom for passing the ball into his thigh. He blamed Bryant for not lobbing the ball high enough. Shut up, get back on defense, and make up for it the next possession.

The league really is going to hell. You have marquee franchises full of whiny, overpaid, soft ballhogs, who show up to collect a paycheque. There really is no more concept of team, for a game that is more team-oriented than any other sport. Let's call it as it is. Bryant will never win a championship without a big brother to kick him in the ass and be a true leader to the team.

Oh, and I got this picture of the championship parade in Boston off of a page called Barstool Sports. Totally made my day.

Champagne Gardet

I enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Champagne with some friends over the weekend. It was a small producer, non vintage brut. I was happy because I was able to open the bottle without wasting a single drop.


Champagne Gardet Cuvee Foudres Selected Reserve, $44.95. The producer ages it for 2 years in barrel, and then another 3 years on the lees, for its secondary fermentation. This longer aging gives it more character, which is quite noticeable. This is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier.

I love drinking sparkling wines in regular tulip-shape wine glasses. I find it expresses and opens up the wine much better than a flute. A flute is nice to look at but..........it's what happens in the nose and mouth that counts. This wine was so, so yeasty on the nose. Lots of citrus, yeast, toasted breads on the nose. Nice acidity on the finish, maybe we should revisit this wine with some more bottle age. But very delicious, extremely unique and very, very rich.

I really want to start exploring these smaller Champagne producers. I think they produce wine that is much better than the luxury brands. I just don't see how Veuve Clicquot can justify charging $80 for a bottle. I just can't see it.

Rias Baixas

I know the purpose of this space isn't to give tasting notes, or any of that nonsense. But lately I've just been having some interesting wines, wines that are very new experiences to me. One of them was a Spanish white wine, from Rias Baixas.

2006 Agro de Bazan "Contrapunto", DO Rias Baixas Albarino. This wine is made from 100% Albarino. Beautiful golden colour. And the nose! What a glorious nose!! Full of honey, spice, tropical fruits, sweetness. It has an uncanny resemblance to Vidal icewine. In the mouth, it is gloriously silky with a racy acidity, and a long, spicy finish. Delicious, just absolutely delicious.

This was my first bottle of Spanish white wine, and I am in love with the region already. It just confirms all I know about Spanish red wines - that this area produces rich, interesting, complex wines. I can't wait for my next bottle!

Opening Champagne

How do you open a bottle of Champagne, or for that matter, any sparkling wine, without wasting any of it? I cringe every time I see someone shooting the cork open, wasting half the bottle in the process. But I know it's possible to do it in a more civilized manner.

I'm really starting to fall in love with Champagne. I love the complexity of the wine, how great it is with food, and just the history and traditions behind it. It's such a shame that the vast majority of people don't understand it, and therefore waste it.

I succeeded last night. I guess the trick is to have the bottle standing upright on a table. Turn the cork slowly. Make sure you apply pressure downward. I havn't figured out how to slowly ease the cork out yet, because the pressure of the bottle is just too powerful. I let it pop out loudly but if you avoid obstructing the neck of the bottle, the gas escapes. I think that's the trick to not letting the wine bubble out of the bottle.

The day before, I opened a bottle of sparkling wine from Chile. When I removed the cork, I held it against the opening of the bottle too long. The gas couldn't escape, and it sprayed the wine everywhere. I was almost ready to start licking it off the ground. I hate wasting wine.

Convocation

I'm now a graduate of the University of Waterloo.

It was a long, rough 4 years. I learned some things, became more independant. Most of my happiest memories of university were the times I spent with friends.

Our convocation ceremony was great. At first, I though it was just going to be like all the other graduations I've been through. But there's so many traditions and ceremonial aspects to it. It turned out to be quite special - I even got a bit emotional hearing our Dean read out the names. Kneeling before the Vice-Chancellor, all I could think was...my goodness, I did it. All the late nights, all the stress, all the uncertainty. It was all worth it.

I guess I have to thank...my parents, all my roommates, my buddies. And myself. Thanks so much to my buddies who came to take pictures and celebrate with me. I can now honestly say I have a degree in Economics!

Need help drinking

I organized my closet yesterday. I had a couple dozen bottles still in cardboard boxes that I had put away at a friend's place. Brought them all back, and it was like opening a birthday present - I had totally forgotten what a lot of the bottles were.

One bottle that stood out was a 1999 Domaine Huet Brut, AC Vouvray. A sparkling wine from the Loire Valley, from Chenin Blanc grapes. Look forward to opening that sometime soon, perhaps to celebrate my graduation from Waterloo. Purportedly, this wine can compete with Champagne in the best vintages. For some reason, it amazes me whenever I find a vintage dated sparkling wine outside of Champagne.

A few more bottles that stood out were a couple of white Burgundies, some interesting St. Joseph's, as well as a bottle of Australian shiraz/voignier, which no doubt my father bought. I am NOT taking responsibility for that bottle.

In the meantime...I bought a few bottles of Champagne from LCBO's last release. A couple of more obscure Champagne houses I suppose, but all from Grand Cru villages. I always look out for blanc de noirs Champagnes. I just love the character of pinot noir.

I'll see, but I'm interested in exploring German rieslings more. The reason? I've had some experience with them in the past, but lately I bought a few bottles from an LCBO release, bought as futures. Balthasar Ress released a vertical of Rheingau rieslings from 1982-1999, so it really was a great chance to taste mature white wines. I bought bottles of:

1982 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau
1983 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau
1986 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau

Havn't received word yet, but extremely excited and anxious to receive these bottles. That's why I want to drink as many Rheingau rieslings in the meantime as I can, so I can get a better sense of what this region is about. Now...if only I can win the lottery, that would solve all my problems. All of them.

A pair of stunning Niagara pinot noirs

I'm happy to report that I've finally set up my tv I brought back from Waterloo in my basement. So finally I have a place to chill and watch tv in peace. Anyways, it also gave me an opportunity to quietly enjoy and contemplate a pair of Niagara wines that I found truly incredible. Just incredible. I had a bottle of each on consecutive nights, and while both were unique, they showed a surprisingly strong sense of place and regional typicity. And by the way, I apologize for these truly atrocious pictures. The blame belongs to my cell phone camera.

The first bottle I drank was a 2004 Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Pinot Noir. This is a wine produced from a single vineyard, called Montague. And although I know a lot of so-called single vineyard wines are barely mediocre, I've always loved this wine. Definitely the best in Inniskillin's portfolio, and only available at the winery. I know people who love Inniskillin's icewines will disagree with that statement, but I stand behind it. I absolutely feel that this pinot noir shows much more regional characteristics than their icewines ever will.

The wine was a beautiful light ruby. I don't understand the misconception that a lighter red wine is somehow of a lesser quality than something more deeply coloured. This is an intense wine, and when I drink Niagara pinot noir, this is what I'm looking for. Incredible strawberry and this nutty, smoky quality. Unmistakable Niagara pinot noir. Just unmistakable - if you appreciate pinot noir from the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench appellations, you will adore this wine. Fine tannins, underlined by a racy acidity, which finishes so smooth. The question of ripeness, however remains. I think ripeness might be more of an issue, in terms of tannins. A bit bitter on the finish. Just an incredible wine, and something that I think can age for a few more years. I really think it'll develop more earthy flavours, as the acidity makes it so lively. I have one more bottle left, the key is patience. What a delicious wine!

The second bottle was a 2005 Mommessin "Les Caves", AC Moulin-a-Vent. This is from the Beaujolais AOC of France. People think Beaujolais, and they think about cheap wines. Untrue - well, at least not completely true. The marketing job on Beaujolais nouveau has been magnificent, but the cru Beaujolais are fantastic wines. They're more artisanal wines, with more character and depth. Nouveau wine is alcoholic grape juice. Cru Beaujolais is wine.

Originally, I wanted to open a 2005 Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir. I was in the mood for another pinot noir from the Niagara Peninsula. But then, I wanted a Moulin-a-Vent. It's made from the gamay grape, and is often mistaken for pinot noirs. And what a lovely complement to the Inniskillin pinot noir! Fresh, crushy fruit, all underlined with an earthiness that I love so much. This sense of soil and herbs, and just a beautiful subtlety to the wine. A much more "complete" wine than the Inniskillin. But the influence is unmistakable. Unmistakable. If you drink these blind, you would swear they were the same producer, using the same grape. To me, I thought the Inniskillin was absolutely delicious. But the Mommessin is more interesting, with more character and greater subltlety in structure.

I fell in love with the Inniskillin all over again. So intense, rich, fresh...this is the kind of wine that Niagara producers need to start focussing on. Pinot noirs that showcase the land, the region. I need to drink the Lailey again to make sure, but for now this is my favourite wine from the Niagara Peninsula. What I find this region is lacking however, is a more stiffer austerity, from the acidity. Compared with wines from the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench, this wine feels a bit flabby. I suppose it's a result of manipulating to be softer - wines with harder acidity are difficult to appreciate for the casual consumer. In my opinion, malolactic fermentation is too frequently used as a crutch, to correct for under-ripeness. But then again, what do I know.

If you havn't tried these wines, please find a bottle of both. They're not that expensive - $25 and $20. If you still think Ontario red wines aren't worth it, you will definitely be surprised by the quality here.

Distillery District

Last week, my buddy took me down to Toronto's Distillery District. It was my first time - yes, I realize how little I know of my city. It was scorching hot, the sun was blazing, but the day was perfect.

By the time we got down, I was starving. Which was exactly what I wanted to do down there - eat and drink. We found a place called the Oyster House and Grill. It was nice, not very busy, and visiting Nice taught me the joys of eating outdoors.

I ordered a 2006 Thirty Bench Riesling. This was my first bottle of wine from this producer, and once again, I was amazed at the quality of some of the wineries from the Beamsville Bench appellation. No doubt what made the wine even better was the glasses that it was served in. The restaurant had wonderful short stem, big bowl Riedel glasses. The wine had a clean, tight nose, wonderful fruit, and most of all, that characteristic Beamsville Bench acidity. Such raciness, it completely cuts your palate in a straight line, absolutely none of that bloated nonsense. Delightful. Definitely will have to visit this winery the next time I'm up in the area.

For lunch, I had their garden salad and a pan-seared tilapia. Beautifully cooked, fresh, and absolutely delicious.

Back home, for dinner that day, I opened a bottle of 2005 Creekside Sauvignon Blanc. It was the bottle that I bought in Niagara in February. $13. Different, and obviously, this winery takes a different approach in their wines. A lot softer, but still contains some varietal characteristics. A bit too mellowed out, no doubt to sculpt the wine for a wider range of consumers.

So there you have it. The Distillery District was a lot of fun. Had some fantastic wine, and that beer we had later was great as well. They make this organic beer that is delicious. Nutty and crisp. I should drink more ales, really want to tune my palate towards that kind of flavour profile. The Boddington's Ale I remember having was eye-opening.

Mulberry wine

Just to make sure you know what I'm talking about, I took some pictures of that homemade mulberry wine I was talking about a few posts ago. It was perfect - take some pictures and drink some of it too.

I decanted this time. With air, it takes on this menthol, ripe berries aroma. The bitter chocolate and candied cherries remains, but it takes on a freshness, and an almost cooling sensation in the mouth. Just delightful.

Hand me a drink

Have you ever been in a situation where you're almost driven to drink? Where something or someone drives you so crazy that (in my case) you just want to uncork a few bottles and chug away? Well, I'm in that situation now.




Keep me away from the Bordeaux I just received.

Homemade surprises

Before I start forgetting the exact tasting details, I need to talk about an eau-de-vie that my uncle poured for me in Shanghai. It was a homemade, distilled liquor, that our relatives from Ningbo made. Completely brewed from sweet rice, it was clear and clean.

The nose was incredible. So fragrant, so sweet. Completely blew me away - the purity of it was amazing. On the palate, it was so clean and smooth. Really, there wasn't a hard edge at all. Nice spiciness on the finish, although not remarkably long. But my goodness, the smoothness was just incredible. Consistency like thick cream in the mouth, but a very cleansing and pleasingly light finish.

Just a few days ago, remembered that there were jars of wine in our fridge. Jars of homemade mulberry wine, also produced by the same relatives. We brought them over a few years ago, when going through customs was still only slightly nervewracking. These relatives picked very ripe mulberrys from their own vineyards, and placed them in a fiery 60% alcohol Chinese liquor. The trick with these is that over time, the alcohol is absorbed into the fruit, and the alcohol in the liquid isn't all that strong. People use this drink for medicinal purposes, but it is so delicious.

Light pink in colour, but with a syrupy consistency. On the nose, it has this beautiful floral aroma, with lots of sweet berries and just a bit of spiciness from the liquor. On the palate, it is overwhelmingly like bitter dark chocolate and candied fruits. Incredible. Not a very complex wine, but has a long long finish, incredibly silky in the mouth. Eating the fruit is quite a different experience. The mulberries retain their natural sweetness and acidity, but the alcohol adds such a strong kick to it. If you're not careful, 5 of them will knock you out.

Unfortunately, with the problem of finding good fruit, we probably won't ever be able to find this kind of wine. The quality is stunning. I suppose there's no point in just leaving it in the back of the fridge. Might as well enjoy it while it's still alive and fresh. What an incredible experience, for both these wines. The mulberry wine is to some degree, a more simple process, but the eau-de-vie was such a wonderful surprise. Such clarity!

Recap - Shanghai

Shanghai for me changed a lot this time. Perhaps because for the first time, I got a really good sense of what it's like to live there.

The food was amazing, as always. A few vegetables were in season, so we had a lot of greens that you can't find anywhere else. A trend is spicy dishes, which was an interesting take on local ingredients. Dinner at my uncle's place was memorable, as it always is. A mark of a true chef is when you can take the same ingredient, prepare it two seperate ways, and yet express the inherent qualities in each.

I drank a lot of Chinese red wine. Allegedly, they're 100% grown and produced in China. And they were awful. Obviously manipulated to remove all traces of tannins and structure. Hideous use of oak chips and staves in place of barrels. Just an artificial tasting product, something which deserves to be poured down the drain. But in a country where tolerance for alcohol commands a higher level of respect than an appreciation for it, who gives a shit?

I am shocked by some of the things that I saw. I love Shanghai dearly - it's my hometown, I'm 100% authentic Shanghainese. The majority of my extended family is there. But I don't think I could ever live or work there.

Recap - Tokyo

Returned from my trip on the 20th. Just havn't felt like posting. Spending time in Tokyo and Shanghai, especially, was really emotionally draining. The family is going through a tough time.

The highlight of my trip was the food. In Tokyo, we had a lot of kobe beef, sashimi and sushi. As well as wine. The selection in some wine shops is impressive. Especially the store in Ginza I visited. A lot of top first and second growth Bordeaux.

The beef was exquisite. Marbled fat, tender, flavourful...you'd think that something so fatty would taste greasy but it wasn't. The fat melts in your mouth, giving you flavour but also at the same time being light and delicate. The meat was so tender, I literally cut it with a butter knife. Seared both sides for 2 minutes each, just add pepper. The Japanese eat it with soy sauce and wasabi, which is how I did it. Delicious.

The fish here, was of course amazing. Incredibly fresh, the tuna especially was stunning. Rich and tender. The most memorable fish we had was also the scariest. Nagasaki Fuku, or puffer fish. The blood and organs were incredibly poisonous, so the restaurant needed a license to prepare it. We had the fish several different ways - as sashimi, as hotpot, and in a porridge. Interesting how the fish retains its character in all the methods.

My cousin Kazu, is a big wine drinker. When I'm around. We had a lot of Spanish wines, Southwest France...the best for me was an Italian, something that I've never had before either. It was a Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. I read somewhere a long time ago about what the name means. Loosely translated, it means "The Tears of Christ". Look up the story behind it. It was a wonderful wine - earthy, dusty, hot, spicy - the kind of wine that was so true to where it was from.

I did buy a bottle of Japanese red wine back with me. Yes, they do make red wine. Don't know how it's going to be, but it's made out of a blend of indigenous grapes. Should be interesting.

Unfortunately, Mount Fuji remains elusive to me. We went to Hakone the day after I returned from Shanghai, and it was so foggy we were literally driving in a cloud. Drove up to the highest road, about 2000 or so metres, and could see nothing. It was amazing though - only 5 degrees, snow and ice everywhere. I picked up some volcanic rock. Red and porous, really interesting.

I tried to pick up my Japanese again. It's tough - the subtleties of the language make even saying thank you seem ambiguous. It all depends on context.

I came away very impressed with the people, and the culture. But to me, there's too much emphasis on outside appearance. Everyone is well-mannered, perfectly groomed, well dressed. It's too tiring to be Japanese.

5.12 Sichuan Earthquake

I was in Shanghai at the time of the earthquake. I felt it - it happened at 2:28 pm, and Shanghai experienced it around 3. I was reading, at my uncle's 21st floor apartment, when I suddenly felt incredibly dizzy. The room felt like it was literally spinning in circles. I thought it was the really heavy lunch we just had, so I ignored it. It only lasted for maybe 5-10 minutes. Until we got a call that a massive earthquake had just occurred on the other side of the country.

The tv stations started reporting on the earthquake around the clock. The images were horrific, heart-breaking, and emotional. The death toll was catastrophic. And what made it worse was the news that entire schools had collapsed, burying hundreds and thousands of children inside.

So please, do what you can to help. Whether that's donating money, clothing, food...whatever you can. The government's response has been swift and is worth applauding - I know because I witnessed first hand. The Premier has been decisive, inspiring, strong - I was very impressed.

Please help.

Back in Yokohama city

I arrived back in Tokyo this afternoon. I'm heartbroken to leave my grandparents and Shanghai. But what can you do, except live your life. Feels great to be back in Japan, welcomed with a wonderful sukiyaki dinner and a bottle of 2003 Marques de Riscal DOC Rioja Reserva.

Going to Hakone tomorrow, hope the weather turns out to be ok.

Lots of things to catch up on, when I get back home. Of course, I'll need to talk about all the wonderful food and not so wonderful wine I had in Shanghai. And everything else.

In Shanghai

We arrived in Shanghai yesterday morning, right before noon. Went to the hospital soon after. It's impossible for me to put into words how I'm feeling. It's painful to see someone you love and respect lying there like that. I don't want to talk about it.

Went to a restaurant specializing in Hunan cuisine. Spicy foods, but quite different from Sichuan cuisine. No peppercorn and less spices. Absolutely delicious. We had stone pot soups, clear broths cooked with herbal medicines. Then a sauteed frog meat dish, filled with chili peppers and chili oil. Followed by greens, cooked in oil and seafood soy sauce. We finished with a hot cast iron plate of duck tongue. The restaurant was packed, which was a good thing. I have a hard time trusting an empty restaurant's food. Each dish was perfectly seasoned, spicy but not numbing, each allowing the primary ingredient to shine.

The mall where the restaurant was had a wine shop. I went in, and was pleasantly surprised. Compared to when I came last, Christmas 2006, the selection of wines has improved dramatically. It featured many of the more obscure Bordeaux appellations, such as Moulis and Lussac St-Emilion. Would have loved to try, but the prices are still very forbidding.

I'm having a difficult time in Shanghai. It's been shocking, what I've seen here. You think you know a place well enough, but...

Back in Japan

Just spent my first day in Japan. Noticed some very interesting things right away. We arrived in the afternoon. The flight was ok, not too painful. For me that is. My aunt's new place is awesome, great location.

We spent today shopping. I needed to get a suit, and luckily, there was a huge sale going on at the store close by. I'm having a suit made for me - it's not as expensive as it sounds. And it's good quality as well, 100% wool, two buttons, side vents, pants that hugs everything right. I also bought an Aquascutum suit jacket, single button with peak lapels. And a pair of checked light grey cotton pants. Beautiful.

What comes across most is that it is a country of unfailing courtesy and formality. Almost excruciatingly polite everywhere you go. The people here have an attention to detail that is unsurpassed. After a day of polite smiling and bowing, things begin to seem fake to you. I mean, it just isn't natural to act this way. Let me give you an example: I was in UNIQLO, buying maroon dress socks. The girl at the cash was bowing and smiling and saying all these things as I was giving her money. I asked my cousin what she was saying, and he told me that she was just saying, 'Please give me a moment to give you change'.

Speaking of my cousin, Kazuhide is definitely by far the coolest person I know. Without a doubt, Kazu is just cool. He's completely mastered the 'I don't give a shit about anything' look. If there ever is an unpretentious and effortless sense of style, the kid has it. There's cool people that have to work really hard at it, the kinds that want to make sure other people notice it as well. Nothing Kazuhide does is ever forced. He just has that way about him - the slouching, the quiet demeanor, the way he carries himself. And he's only going to reach 19 at the end of next month! I was an absolute mess at 19. Wow, what a cool kid.

We're in the heart of Yokohama, right next to Tokyo Bay, so there's a lot to see. Excited to begin exploring the food here. I went with Kazuhide to the local grocery store today. You can learn so much about a culture just by buying groceries, trust me. I saw so many interesting things inside, especially the seafood. Tonight, we had sushi - not those cheap hand rolls that North Americans believe is sushi. No, the authentic kind. It was fantastic - fresh and beautifully structured firmness and weight to it. And I visited the local wine shops already. Of course I did - no one should be surprised. The selection at the more expensive stores is impressive. They sell a 2001 CH. Cote de Montpezat, AC Cotes de Castillon, as well as a 2000 Bodegas Lan Gran Reserva, both of which I have in my cellar, and both of which I thought was quite obscure. The markup is even higher, compared to LCBO, which was a shock. I bought a bottle of Suntory red wine, a Japanese bottle. Havn't tried it yet, but eager to do so. I also bought a bottle of Chianti Classico, which we tried tonight. Not good. That's all I want to say. Candied fruit, weak structure, at least it was cheap.

Very excited to be able to try some new Japanese cuisine. New, in the sense that I've never tried before. I'm beginning to see this country in a new light, and hopefully I'll be able to communicate that through here in the next few posts.