but you ain't bonafide

There is no virtue in rejection.

I'm the kind of fellow who genuinely enjoys drinking. Sure, we aspire to be connoisseurs (whatever that means) and to feel like we're adequately appreciating a bottle that someone has poured their heart and soul into (again, whatever that means), but in the end, if we're really being honest with ourselves, we just like to drink. There's nothing wrong with that - it's not alcoholism - but I just like getting tipsy. Occasionally drunk. Never enough to be sick, but enough to be a more fun version of me. A boozy DF is the best DF.

I've had this conversation many times with IESE friends. About how fussiness in wine kills all sense of enjoyment and pleasure. For fuck's sake, stop worrying about how you look, how you're supposed to hold a glass, how you're supposed to taste, how you're supposed to talk about wine. What happened to just drinking the goddamn glass and enjoying yourself? What happened to the first function of wine, which is to bring people together, make conversation flow, and ultimately, to get you laid? I blame wine hipsters and wannabes. And Obama. If there's anything that I've accomplished with the IESE Wine & Spirits Club, if there's anything good to come out of all that boozing, it's this - that my friends, previously wine-drinkers or not, have the confidence to drink and enjoy wine on their own terms, without all the bullshit that's infected this beautiful, beautiful drink.

This is a cool bottle. Me and Shuji (travel buddies for life) spent Christmas of 2014 in Lisbon, and to thank our hosts, we picked up this bottle of 1983 Kopke Colheita Port when we visited the house in Oporto. I drink a lot of port, which gave me the illusion that I understood it. In its natural context - in Portugal, with a Portuguese family - I learned how port is really drunk. As a digestivo, and only in small amounts. And so with these new experiences, your perspective broadens, and you bring something back home with you that furthers your understanding.

But let's be clear - there is no virtue in rejection. I got another rejection today, from a very large multinational consumer goods company. A very nice rejection, mind you. They had the courtesy to call me over the phone and share some specific feedback about my interview. But a rejection, nevertheless. I really wanted this job, but apparently, I gave canned answers and came across as, in her words, fake. There goes my shot at returning to Europe. I refuse to accept that rejection is a necessary step on this path, that there is something to be gleaned from all this - that everyone has to go through it, or any other bullshit cliché. Interviews are such superficial ways to understand a person. Do we still seriously believe that we don't all game interviews, that we prepare for the same behavioural type questions and rehearse juiced up answers over and over again? What is there to be learned from that? What takeaway do we get from a rejection from this type of process? I'm just incredibly frustrated right now. But I'm sick and tired of hearing that all this is necessary. There is no fucking virtue in rejection.

The wine is nice though. The wino drinking it? Apparently not so bonafide.

DF

a taste of home

2010 Casa Ferreirinha Callabriga | DOC Douro

A bottle my flatmate brought in for us. A bottle that spoke of where he was from, what he believed in, who he was. Do we all have a wine like that? A wine that is simply us? Perhaps. On this night, the wine spoke of modernity, of balance, and of warmth of spirit. A wine that spoke of my flatmate indeed.

It's the holiday season, the first that I'll be spending away from my family. It's ok. I'm fully invested in this Spanish experience - I'm here for keeps. But being here has made me realize how great some things about Toronto are. The food, Jesus, what I wouldn't do for some Galleria pork bone soup. Access to good French wine. That first snowfall, when it's still all white and fresh outside. An old friend sent me a care package today, a poutine cheese curd making kit. Fantastic. They don't have my kind of comfort food here. So we come back to wine ... we always come back to wine.

Talking to a friend last night, and it came around to what this new wine/spirits/beer club's mandate is. Educating IESE MBAers on wine? Building the IESE brand in the Spanish wine industry? I settled on building a personal relationship with wine. Because what it comes down to is how we personally experience wine - how we figure out what we like, what excites us, what makes us want to learn and understand more. There is no single seminar, no single tasting that will accomplish this. Like all good things, it's a process, the true joy coming from the journey.

DF

sushi and Le Clos Jordanne

I've been having a lot of 'farewell dinners' lately. Same group of friends, but whenever we say goodbye at the end of the night, hurts the same everytime. I'm so soft. So this night, the last time I'd get to have dinner with a dear friend who was off to work in Beijing, I dug out some Niagara gems. Le Clos Jordanne 2007/2008's, the Village Reserve chardonnays and pinot noirs. We laid them out on the table ...

... drew the corks ...

... and started tasting. The Village Reserves represent the basic LCJ blend of fruit from all their vineyards - 3 for chardonnay (Claystone Terrace, Le Clos Jordanne, and Talon Ridge), and 4 for pinot noir (those previous mentioned 3 and La Petite Colline). We started with the pair of chardonnays. 2008 Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay | VQA Niagara Peninsula, showing minerality and structure, wonderful linearity. The 2007 Village Reserve Chardonnay, showing the creaminess and richness of that hot vintage, while retaining an elegance and depth.

We moved onto the pinot noirs. I've always loved these wines - such class and soul. The 2008 Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir | VQA Niagara Peninsula, full of purity and minerality, drinking lovely now. The 2007 Village Reserve Pinot Noir, again showing the ripeness that the vintage achieved, and my wine of the night.

My buddy generously brought along one of his favourite Niagara chardonnays, a 2009 Closson Chase S. Kocsis Vineyard Chardonnay | VQA Beamsville Bench. By far the fattest, richest, oakiest wine of the evening, but does retain harmony and balance.

And we ended the evening off with a colheita port, the Dalva 1997. All the roundness and notes of maturity we want in a colheita. Delicious.

Another day down, another day closer to the big move. Bittersweet, definitely, to leave home, to leave on this adventure. Many people I will miss dearly. But I'm being a grump again. A few more days left in Toronto means a few more chances to eat/drink/make merry with loved ones. Heading to Niagara today, for some sun and wine. Looking for some good local food too. Let's get to it!

DF

calm and composed

1995 Delaforce Corte Vintage Port | DOC Douro

Yesterday was a good day. I needed one of those. Relaxing all around, doing what I love - wandering around the city, stopping into random places for a coffee, for lunch, for a beer. Weather was perfect, and I had a great time. Need a few more days like that before I say adios to Toronto.

Port is all love, but we do have to move on and try other things. The Delaforce Corte - at this price point, you have to give it a taste. Rich, pure fruit, all that we love about these wines. I like them a lot. Ports are a throwback, when taking a drink in the afternoon was part of the routine, when we drank wine for what it was, instead of having to analyze everything. And I'm a throwback kind of guy.

DF

Winterlicious at Chiado Restaurant

We went out to Chiado Restaurant last Friday - lunch in Little Italy. For the longest time, I've refused to take part in these cheap promotions masquerading as proper meals ... I've never thought too highly about Winterlicious/Summerlicious. Bad experiences I suppose, and it's still a minefield. So many restaurants that try to pass off catering-quality food as fine dining. Terrible bang-for-buck (BFB in my buddy's lexicon). But they publish all the menus online now, and having been almost 2 years since my last visit, I really wanted to revisit Chiado. Their Winterlicious lunch menu looked promising - lots of fish. And I was not disappointed ... not in the least.

The meal was a triumph of the pleasures of a good piece of fish. Starting with the lobster bisque and grilled sardines, showing as much savoury aromas and flavours as you can possibly find in seafood. And then the monkfish, the skate, and roasted capon - simply divine. Divine. Texture, flavour, character, finesse, everything that makes us go mad and takes our breath away.

With lunch, a white wine from Douro, made with grapes you never even heard of (45% Viosinho, 20% Moscatel, 20% Malvasia Fina, and 15% Rabigato). A 2011 Quinta do Portal Colheita Branco, a bottle not printed on the wine list apparently. Chiado has a fairly extensive list of Portuguese wines, so of course, you have to take advantage. I was looking at a pair of wines from Dão, but was steered towards this one - a great suggestion, reminding once again that a good sommelier is a golden source of knowledge. Lithe, mineral, and linear - perfect with our meal, leaving you energized and refreshed.

A dream come true. Proof that there is no contradiction between refinement and authenticity; between sophistication and soul. 

DF

how to end a meal

2007 Offley Late Bottled Vintage Port | DOC Douro

Is there any better way to end a meal than with a few glasses of port? The sweet, that goes with the end of the meal. These LBV's are delicious - unique wines, combining that richness of fruit (and alcohol) with a concentration of acidity and tannin that makes it all come together spectacularly. What you want to be careful with is to not match it with overly sweet desserts. But really, for those with developed palates, it's all about drinking these wines with the savoury, with the cheese. That bittersweetness you see - simply divine. And yes, you can get all fussy with these wines, decanting and all that - but the key, as always, is with temperature. Chill the wines down, pour with a steady hand.

So now that the holidays are well and truly over, we all need to get back to business, back to routine. Yes, we all want to do nothing but eat, drink, and make merry, but it's good to get lean again, get hungry. I've been punishing myself at the gym all week - my first round of proper workouts in weeks. And it's been great. Lots of pain, but at least there has been no sign of the resolution-ers. Of course, my mind's caught in an ever-tightening stress vise - now that applications have all been sent out, it's time to just ... wait? Fuck. I feel useless when I'm not doing anything, especially when my future is going to be decided by an admissions committee.

I guess I'll have to keep myself occupied. Another glass of port, please.

DF

choosing wine that mirrors its drinkers

1989 Cruz Vintage Port | Douro

So the elections are finally over for America and the rest of the world should be very grateful that the President has been re-elected. In my opinion, the job of POTUS is at least 75% foreign policy. The government is more than capable of handling domestic issues on its own - what the President needs to focus on is how to maintain and spread American influence internationally. And with all sorts of conflict happening, you just can't trust a corporate shark who can't point out Syria on a map to capably devise and carry out foreign policy. Just can't. So thanks America, you've allowed us all to breathe a sigh of relief until 2016. 

Monday night was my old man's birthday, and since my mother's in Shanghai at the moment and I'm smack in the middle of the worst shitstorm of my life ... a more subdued celebration seemed more appropriate. So we just cooked a simple dinner, and I pulled my last bottle of this 1989 Cruz. Like the other bottles I've had, it looks remarkably youthful, but is anything but a refined example of how grand of a wine Vintage Port can be. Coarse and thin, with the alcohol overwhelming the wine. Some sweet, dried berries on the nose, but you do have to search a little. A drinkable wine, at maturity ... it'll hold on for many more years, but what's the point?

I like to think that when you pull a special bottle to celebrate a person's special occasion, the wine doesn't just have to be something that they like - wouldn't it be interesting if the wine actually mirrored that person? We talk and write about wine in human terms, so wouldn't it be logical if we tried to choose wine by corresponding personality traits. Pleasant, honest, straightforward; lean, odious, understated - those are all things we can apply to both wine and people. Beyond choosing wine for flavour profile, let's see if we can dig deeper, and choose wine by its character. I already know what wine I'd like served in my honour. Something linear and acidic, subtle yet focused; elegant on the palate with a firm, long finish. That is, unless I'm in the mood for gin .....

DF

a little fruity, lots of great

2011 Cabriz Rosé | DOC Dão

2011 Domaine des Carteresses Rosé | AC Tavel

Man, I just can't get enough of these pink wines. Portugal, coming through with an absolutely delicious wine at $11.95 (!!!). Rosés have this reputation of being the cheap floozies of the wine world, and in some cases, it deserves that rep. But damn, floozies can be SO MUCH FUN. No, in all seriousness - because these are serious wines - pink is the real deal.

In the heat and humidity of summer (my relatives don't believe me, but Toronto has scorching summers, continental climate people!!), with the charcoal going hard, sweat flying everywhere, I can't imagine a more pleasurable thing than downing an ice cold glass of rosé. But not just any rosé. See, these wines are so much more than tinted white wines. In the best cases, they have a fabulous purity of fruit (like the Cabriz), and a well-defined texture and structure (like the Carteresses). But where this Portuguese KO's the French bottle is in balance and alcohol. Because it's hot enough already; you don't need to be drinking a wine that'll knock you out before the yams are done.

That pretty much goes for all wine. Refreshing wines that actually pick you up instead of make you drop are what we all should be drinking more of. And besides, you want to be seducing girls with wine, not making everyone sloppy. Save that for the 3rd date.

DF

sweets on the table

2005 Fonseca Late Bottled Vintage Port | DOC Douro

Today was the first day I've been back at the gym in just over 2 weeks. And it was as gruesome as I thought it would be. We'll get the conditioning back there, eventually.

These certainly didn't help. I never eat sweets, but it seemed everyday these holidays, it was some kind of cake, some kind of pastry. Good though. Variety is the spice of life, right? Kind of odd though, that I absolutely adore sweet wines. And what kind of winter would it be without port? Simple LBV port, hitting all the right notes. Pure fruit, good concentration and all that.

And the only thing requires a bit of thought? Make sure the wine is sweeter than whatever pastry/cake/butter bomb you're eating.

DF

2005 Late Bottled Vintage Port

2005 Messias Late Bottled Vintage Port | DOC Douro

LBV is like an old wool blanket. Warm, and a little bit prickly. Some exceedingly fine examples, but elegance isn't an important primary trait in fortified wines. This one is maybe a bit on the coarse side, but still satisfies.

I'll be honest, I'm not in the mood to write. This was a drinkable wine, but it'd be a stretch to call it anything else. Gave me a chance to use my old little decanter again, I missed that thing. Fuck I can't concentrate, will try again tomorrow.

Late day at work today. Me and my coworker at it hard, who knew, after I thought we'd be able to wrap up and be prepped for tomorrow's presentation . . . we were far from done. Up early tomorrow morning, looking at about 5 hours of sleep. But we'll be ready.

DF

1983 Vintage Port

1983 Gould Campbell Vintage Port

A port to close out this winter's port drinking season.

What can I possibly say in critique of a wine older than I am? All the superlatives somehow seem decidedly inadequate. Limitations of wine writing, or rather, my writing?

I shouldn't be getting strange looks for loving to drink port. Why would that be strange? You know the wines I like - authenticity and singularity above all else, and ports are singular wines. Find me another wine that is as dense and concentrated, yet elegant and fresh, with an immense ability (and necessity) for bottle age. You can't. Which makes it sad that all of sudden, Portugal is trying its hardest to pump out dry red wines. The WA effect? Perhaps. But those wines are completely character-less. Maybe that's why they're doing well (in America)? A shame. Portugal, please return to what you do best.

And what better proof that God shines on ports than this wine. Tannins perfectly integrated, creating a beautifully lush, wooly texture. Minerals and fruits, perfect in aroma and flavour. Just sublime, and all love.

DF

1999 Colheita Port

1999 Hutcheson Colheita Port

I love port, but there's no denying that it's not a particularly sexy wine. No one likes to admit that they enjoy sweet wines. Even scarcer are the people who openly serve it with dinner. I'm not saying I'm special, but yeah, I'm kind of a badass for doing both.

These vintage tawnies are wonderful wines. Round and sweet, with that spiciness you still get in young colheitas. Energetic and lively on the palate. I really like Hutcheson colheitas - I vividly remember the delicious '78 I drank for New Year's. So what's holding people back from embracing these wines? I'll have none of that it's so old-fashioned talk. North Americans are funny - they have no problem downing soda like it's nobody's business, but heaven forbid they admit to drinking sweet wines.

And what did I serve this with? Only the most delicious braised sea cucumber, bien sur.

DF

2005 Late Bottled Vintage Port

2005 Delaforce Late Bottled Vintage Port

You know, we never do see enough of these types of wines. Simple, rich, pure, and direct. Delaforce's LBV satisfies all those tingles you have on a cold winter night, when all you need is a wine to pick up your spirits.

Oh, and under $18 too.

DF

1985 Vintage Port

1985 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port

And onto the grand finale, the bottle I was most worried about. A 25 year old wine with a murky cellaring history (please let this be ex-chateau), why wouldn't I open it in front of guests I'm trying to impress? Fear not. The wine was in perfect condition, DF breathed a sigh of relief.

I had no idea what to expect of the '85's. Such a heralded vintage you almost don't know when to be serving it. Dark colour, very saturated - surprisingly, not as heavy in sediment as the '94 Delaforce. The fruit is so ripe, so concentrated, yet so primary. Slightly dried, but the density of the wine is incredible. Richly textured, with a long, chocolate-tinged finish. Delicious and absolutely caresses the palate. We drank this to end the meal, with a Valentine's Day cake and some traditional sweet Chinese glutinous rice balls.

Always a pleasure and treat to drink old wine. My friend correctly noted that it was tradition to finish a bottle of Vintage Port in one go. I like tradition. It's what separates us from animals.

I dutifully complied.

DF

Vintage Port sediment

I don't know what people do with the dregs of decanted Vintage Port, that last 1/2 inch or so of sediment-filled wine. I filter out the large chunks with a fine mesh filter, leaving me with about a glass of dusty wine. Drinks just fine, although I can see how some people might be a bit leery about drinking something with particles floating in it.

In any case, better than pouring it out. Or doing something stupid like spreading it on toast.

DF

1994 Vintage Port

1994 Delaforce Vintage Port, DOC Douro

Any chance to taste the 1994's is good. Maybe in hindsight not as fine a vintage as '77 or '85, but these are still very, very young wines. Lots and lots of sediment pouring out of the bottle, a clear indication of the amount of concentration in this wine. Drunk in the middle of winter with some lamb, just delicious. We've talked about this before, no, drinking Vintage Port with dinner?

This is still dark in colour, beautifully lustrous and saturated. The purity of the fruit is stunning, slightly dried in nature but very intense. Minerals and a subtle mocha character flooding out of the glass. Refined palate, focused and balanced, elegant and resolved tannins. Dark chocolate and spice.

Almost makes you not want to share.

DF

Chiado Restaurant

It's tough having a limited entertainment budget. I don't get to go out for dinner with friends as much as I'd like to. Of course, frivolous spending at a certain bar doesn't help, but we won't get into that.

Dinner with a friend, for the first time in months. Good chance to catch up, at what some regard as one of the finest Portuguese restaurants in Toronto, Chiado. And they certainly uphold that fine dining reputation when you step in. Waiters in pressed white shirts and black vests, aprons. Soft, muted lighting, very refined. Nice tablecloths. Clientele ranging from middle-aged professional types to the elderly who still dress their finest for dinner. A little stuffy for this wine consultant, but we were there for the food.

And it was wonderful.

Fresh ingredients, simply cooked, no fuss. Pure flavour of the sea. To start, we shared grilled squid, tiger shrimp, and sardines. Delicious on all counts, and they were kind enough to divide them into two separate plates. The squid, just grilled perfectly - tender, fresh, and unbelievably delicious with that subtle layer of lemon juice. Shrimps showing how wonderful they can be if cooked on fire, with lovely slices of spicy pepper. And the sardines. Deboned, which is not really necessary, but just a dream come true.

Then, the fish. I had a dorado, what the French call dorade, what is also known as sea bream. Grilled whole, just like in the south of France. Fond, fond memories of eating this fish during my time in Nice. Plate of vegetables on the side, less successful - the butter was not working for me. My buddy had pan-roasted skate wing over risotto. Crumbly, tender, perfect in texture and flavour. Wonderful.

For Portuguese food, definitely went for a Portuguese wine. Extensive list, and I went for a wine I've never heard of before, discovering a new region. From Sado, a 2008 Casa Ermelinda Freitas Branco, DOC Palmela. Fresh citrus, minerals, with a lovely rich texture. Must have some sur lie aging, something to plump up the body. Delicious with the fish.

Wonderfully authentic cuisine, a maestro at the grill. Expensive though, which somewhat dampens the experience. Yes, the ingredients are fresh and quality is high, but for what the food is - this is not fine dining, and prices should not reflect that. Service is exemplary, discreet yet very attentive to details. Shame. I mean, even for two young men with healthy appetites, $140 per person (wine, tax, and gratuity included) is pushing it.

DF

1997 Vintage Port

1997 Delaforce Quinta da Corte Vintage Port, DOC Douro

To pair with our stunning Colheita Port, a Vintage Port of the same, well, vintage. Why not - my holidays drinking is all about excess. I broke this cork, no matter. Deep inky purple, such gorgeously ripe, crush berries on the bouquet. Schist minerality, fragrant - good amount of sweetness, on a fluffy texture. Finely structured, drinking absolutely beautifully now.

When it comes to wine drinking . . . oh yes, more is better. Much better.

DF

1997 Colheita Port

1997 Warre's Colheita Port, DOC Douro

It isn't the holidays until I've drunk Colheita Port. I have a bit of a tradition of drinking these wines around this time - I guess I do have a thing for sweet wines. Ahh, I'm such a sucker for tawny, amber wines, with creamy fruit an balanced sweetness. Oh yes, linear, harmonious, complex . . . absolutely delicious.

DF

1996 Vintage Port

1996 Warre's Quinta da Cavadinha, Vintage Port, DOC Douro

I'm developing this bad habit of breaking Vintage Port corks into the bottle. My mistake this time was putting in the worm just off centre, breaking the cork halfway - I managed to fish the broken half out, but had to deal with cork dust floating in the wine.

Vintage Port is a standby for the holidays in my house. I don't have the luxury of any aged bottles myself, so whenever I can find an older wine, I buy. Dark and inky, intense on the bouquet. I've read this kind of description before, and I don't want to say it, but it does remind me of a dark, rich, savoury soy sauce. Very fragrant, full texture, balanced sweetness - so complex, so delicious.

Still a young Vintage Port, but drinking beautifully. More practice needed, to pull out the cork intact. Or maybe I just need port tongs?

DF