On all my trips to Niagara, tradition calls for packing sandwiches for lunch, and eating dinner in the area, before heading back home. I wanted to eat at About Thyme Bistro - unfortunately, I forgot to call ahead of time, and they were fully booked until 8pm. The other choice was Old Winery Restaurant, which was about 30 minutes away and further east in Niagara. Not willing to drive all the way, we decided to instead drive back to Toronto to eat.
About 80 minutes later, through the horrendous traffic and driving rain, we arrived at the Shops at Don Mills. Dinner at Prairie Ink. Quiet inside, with only 3 other tables. A duo playing sax and double bass. Romantic. A mildly gay environment for two guys to be dining together.
Started with 2 soups - a peanut soup and a pumpkin purée. The peanut soup was silky in consistency, but was a bit too sweet. Liquid peanut butter. The pumpkin soup was spicy, with good texture but a bit under-seasoned. On to the entrées. An 8oz sirloin, and a pan-seared pickerel. The steak was juicy and cooked perfectly to medium-rare, but again, I don't like this idea that the only way to cook steak is on the grill. The char marks were beautiful, but were burnt and bitter. Fries alongside were a bit overcooked as well. Brown. The pickerel was beautifully cooked. Delicious in fact, but I didn't appreciate the accoutrements too much. There were raw sprouts placed on top, which I promptly removed. Not eating it raw. Underneath, roasted bok choy. What western cooks don't understand about bok choy is that you can't only wash the outside. There's dirt trapped between the stalks, and each bite produced more grit. The only saving grace is the roasted potatoes. Clearly organic, and wonderfully soft and buttery. Beautiful.
Shit, I hate fusion. The pickerel was beautiful, as were the potatoes, but why the bok choy? Why the sprouts? Be honest with yourself - is that stuff really necessary? Is it? And wash the bok choy thoroughly! A shame, because I really like this restaurant. Keep it simple, folks.
We had a half litre of 2007 Fielding Estate Unoaked Chardonnay. Came out too chilled, as usual. Some citrus, a touch of bacon fat. Quite simple on the palate. Short, bitter finish.
Maybe dinner is a bit too much to handle. Prairie Ink does the brunch scene quite well. The lemon/blueberry bread is absolutely delicious. I'll be going back, but maybe not so much for dinner.
Showing posts with label Niagara Tasting Trip - Oct 2009. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Niagara Tasting Trip - Oct 2009. Show all posts
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Saturday, October 3, 2009
In photos
Sniffing cask samples of 2008 Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir
Sniffing cask samples of 2008 Lailey Vineyard Syrah
Derek pouring 2001 Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay
Derek and I discussing the sterility of the world's wines
All the photos were taken by my running mate Rocky. Sometimes I feel we take Rocky for granted - he never hesitates to shoot whenever we ask. So much appreciation for that. Derek and I talked for well over 2 hours, about Lailey, about Niagara, and about wine in general. It was a great conversation. Derek was so generous about opening his wines for us, especially the chardonnay shown above. Here is a man who believes in the majesty of old wines. This is a man of the true, uncompromising taste.
Look at the photos - I assure you, I do drink the wines, even though I'm only shown sniffing them. DF's nose tells all!
Dialogue at Lailey
Again, I direct you first to my piece from my last visit with Lailey, in March: Niagara Tour - Lailey Vineyard
I love these wines with all my heart. I've relayed this story over and over, but it's worth repeating again. 2005 Lailey Pinot Noir was the turning point in my appreciation of Niagara wines. If there's any one wine that I can taste in my dreams, this is it.
We met with Derek this time, who makes the wine here. I've seen Derek before, but never had the pleasure to speak with him. As always, we started by going to the vineyards. As you can see, the vines look healthy, and astonishingly clean. Derek comments that this year's crop may well become the finest pinot noir he's ever seen. Still a few days away from being picked, but I'm very excited about the potential of 2009 pinot noir.
Going into the winery, Derek proceeded to open a few bottles for us. Many bottles in fact - Derek was very generous in sharing his wines with us. We began with a surprise find - 2001 Chardonnay. Surprise for everyone. Apparently, no one knew that there was a case of this wine left...4 cases in fact. Beautiful gold colour, showing maturity but by no means tired. Lots of sweet tangerine in the mouth, with a buttery richness and fresh finish that remains quite youthful. Delicious. We tasted both 2007 Pinot Noir, and 2007 Canadian Oak Pinot Noir. The Canadian Oak pinot noir is actually showing a bit more elegance at this point, but both these wines are far too young. We tasted 2007 Impromptu as well, which likewise needs more bottle age. We finished with 2007 Vidal Icewine. Good sweetness, balanced by great acidity, but I've stopped hoping from complexity for vidal. It's still a good wine though.
This visit was extraordinary. I've never had the good fortune to truly engage in dialogue with someone who shares the same tastes in wine as myself, and who understands what the true taste in wine is. Derek shares the same philosophy in wine, and was so honest in sharing his knowledge with me. Many thanks, and I hope to see you soon to see how the 2009 wines are coming along.
The truth of Le Clos Jordanne
May I first direct to my last piece about Le Clos Jordanne: Niagara Tour - Le Clos Jordanne
I last visited in March of this year, when the weather was still quite frigid and the vines were bare. What a difference 6 months makes. The vines look healthy and full, bearing beautiful clusters of pinot noir, chardonnay, and a bit of pinot gris. A little Burgundian delight, if you will. We were taken to all 4 vineyards again, as last time - the only difference was that a few rows had already been picked, with the rest of the pinot noir not far off.
Our first stop was La Petite Vineyard. I love the wines coming out of this site. Ethereally floral and elegant, and simly a stunningly seductive wine. The grapes reflect this pedigree. Clean and healthy, without any sign of botrytis, rot, or disease. Tiny berries, with great colour. High level of ripeness, showing great levels of sugar. The seeds are showing ample phenolic ripeness as well. To put more simply, the grapes were absolutely delicious. Sweet, without any sign of astringency. Very perfumed, with a distinct minera lity. I never realized a grape could be so complex, but there you go. What a wonderful vineyard. Wet and cold and covered in mud, but my heart was pounding with excitement.
Next was Claystone Terrace. This vineyard is a bit tenser, with a gaminess that I find quite unique. I drank a bottle of 2006 Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir recently - still trying to recover from that night. The vineyard is looking healthy as well. Grapes not as developed as the more sandy soil of La Petite. Not as ripe, but getting there.
Our third stop was to survey Talon Ridge Vineyard, the largest site. Right across from Flat Rock, this site produces the bulk of the Village Reserve wines. What I loved is that their bottling this vineyard separately. I tasted Île de Talon from cask, which is a parcel of Talon Ridge which possesses a slightly higher elevation than the rest. This parcel is distinctly more delicate, with more perfume than the Village Reserve. The grapes we tasted looked healthy, and actually were quite ready. In fact, we saw a few workers in the fields, beginning to pick a few rows.
Finally, we stopped at Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, the estate's Grand Cru vineyard, in Burgundian terms. We tasted berries from the Le Clos Jordanne cuvée, which was still a few days from picking. We then tasted berries for the Le Grand Clos cuvée, which is Le Clos Jordanne's top bottling, and most expensive. These parcels show a completely different pedigree. The berries show good ripeness, with an elegance and minerality. Phenolic ripeness is approaching nicely as well.
Tasting the berries, days away from harvest was such a wonderful learning experience for me. It's astonishing how the berries already show the pedigree of each vineyard - you get a picture, albeit subtlety, of how each wine will come to be. This was especially apparent when tasting the berries of La Petite Vineyard. Wonderful. Just amazing.
We then headed back to the production facilities. They were sorting through pinot noir, of Talon Ridge, and we were able to climb up to the sorting table to watch. The berries looked wonderful - very little mold. We then watched a bit of the destemming. My first time seeing this process as well. The whole berries go into a crate, which is weighed, then loaded onto the 'giraffe', which was a conveyor belt bringing the berries up and into the enormous oak fermenting vats. Dry ice is scooped into the crates, and carried into the vats, to keep the berries cool. The berries are dropped into the vats whole - the weight of the grapes aid in crushing themselves, and there's a remarkable amount of juice right out of the crates. Eye-opening and a bit emotional for me. We witnessed the birth of a masterpiece.
The walk through all vineyards was spectacular. This estate is making wines the right way, and aiming for achieving the true taste of wine. I'm excited to see these vineyards, and wines, develop. Many thanks to Candis, who so kindly showed us around in the rain and mud. Much appreciation for taking the time to accommodate an unimportant blogger with no credibility with such patience and honesty.
We're witnessing and tasting greatness, from the very beginning. Wines that show a place and time, and a true beauty
I last visited in March of this year, when the weather was still quite frigid and the vines were bare. What a difference 6 months makes. The vines look healthy and full, bearing beautiful clusters of pinot noir, chardonnay, and a bit of pinot gris. A little Burgundian delight, if you will. We were taken to all 4 vineyards again, as last time - the only difference was that a few rows had already been picked, with the rest of the pinot noir not far off.
Our first stop was La Petite Vineyard. I love the wines coming out of this site. Ethereally floral and elegant, and simly a stunningly seductive wine. The grapes reflect this pedigree. Clean and healthy, without any sign of botrytis, rot, or disease. Tiny berries, with great colour. High level of ripeness, showing great levels of sugar. The seeds are showing ample phenolic ripeness as well. To put more simply, the grapes were absolutely delicious. Sweet, without any sign of astringency. Very perfumed, with a distinct minera lity. I never realized a grape could be so complex, but there you go. What a wonderful vineyard. Wet and cold and covered in mud, but my heart was pounding with excitement.
Next was Claystone Terrace. This vineyard is a bit tenser, with a gaminess that I find quite unique. I drank a bottle of 2006 Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir recently - still trying to recover from that night. The vineyard is looking healthy as well. Grapes not as developed as the more sandy soil of La Petite. Not as ripe, but getting there.
Our third stop was to survey Talon Ridge Vineyard, the largest site. Right across from Flat Rock, this site produces the bulk of the Village Reserve wines. What I loved is that their bottling this vineyard separately. I tasted Île de Talon from cask, which is a parcel of Talon Ridge which possesses a slightly higher elevation than the rest. This parcel is distinctly more delicate, with more perfume than the Village Reserve. The grapes we tasted looked healthy, and actually were quite ready. In fact, we saw a few workers in the fields, beginning to pick a few rows.
Finally, we stopped at Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, the estate's Grand Cru vineyard, in Burgundian terms. We tasted berries from the Le Clos Jordanne cuvée, which was still a few days from picking. We then tasted berries for the Le Grand Clos cuvée, which is Le Clos Jordanne's top bottling, and most expensive. These parcels show a completely different pedigree. The berries show good ripeness, with an elegance and minerality. Phenolic ripeness is approaching nicely as well.
Tasting the berries, days away from harvest was such a wonderful learning experience for me. It's astonishing how the berries already show the pedigree of each vineyard - you get a picture, albeit subtlety, of how each wine will come to be. This was especially apparent when tasting the berries of La Petite Vineyard. Wonderful. Just amazing.
We then headed back to the production facilities. They were sorting through pinot noir, of Talon Ridge, and we were able to climb up to the sorting table to watch. The berries looked wonderful - very little mold. We then watched a bit of the destemming. My first time seeing this process as well. The whole berries go into a crate, which is weighed, then loaded onto the 'giraffe', which was a conveyor belt bringing the berries up and into the enormous oak fermenting vats. Dry ice is scooped into the crates, and carried into the vats, to keep the berries cool. The berries are dropped into the vats whole - the weight of the grapes aid in crushing themselves, and there's a remarkable amount of juice right out of the crates. Eye-opening and a bit emotional for me. We witnessed the birth of a masterpiece.
The walk through all vineyards was spectacular. This estate is making wines the right way, and aiming for achieving the true taste of wine. I'm excited to see these vineyards, and wines, develop. Many thanks to Candis, who so kindly showed us around in the rain and mud. Much appreciation for taking the time to accommodate an unimportant blogger with no credibility with such patience and honesty.
We're witnessing and tasting greatness, from the very beginning. Wines that show a place and time, and a true beauty
In search of beauty and truth
Walking the pinot noir vines with Derek of Lailey Vineyards.
I'm still in the process of completing my notes on the wines we tasted, both from cask and from bottle. I'll begin writing here as soon as I finish. Notes must be done by hand first.
It was a cold, harsh day, with fierce rain and wind. The drive down to Niagara was blurry and unpleasant. Made it just in time for our first appointment, with Candis of Le Clos Jordanne. We ran into Thomas Bachelder, LCJ's visionary winemaker. Folks in Niagara are always so humble and friendly, something decidedly lacking in Toronto. Candis kindly took us out to all 4 of Le Clos Jordanne's vineyards - La Petite Vineyard, Claystone Terrace, Talon Ridge, and Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard. More about what we did there, later. We then stepped inside the production facilities, to see the sorting and destemming of Talon Ridge pinot noir. Just in time to see the 'giraffe' load the berries into the giant oak fermenting vats as well. Just an eye-opening visit.
Tried to locate Marynissen next. Failed. Apparently, both my GPS and Google Maps don't have a clue about where this estate is located. Such a shame, I wanted to pick up a few bottles for my dinner.
Appointment with Derek Barnett, winemaker of Lailey, at 4pm. Really looking forward to this visit. Derek showed us around the vineyard, going through the pinot noir vines. Stepping into the cellar, we were shown cask samples - I always ask to taste from cask, not to satisfy ego, but because I'm very interested in tracking the evolution of the wine as it matures in oak. We then tasted through a few bottles, of recent and older vintages. Amazing. And we talked. It's so rare to find someone who genuinely loves wine - Derek is one of those few who is clear about what true taste in wine is, and who's clear about the wines he wants to craft. Again, more later.
Fantastic trip, all around. I come to Niagara to learn and engage in dialogue with the people who matter in this industry, and I feel so privileged to meet so many people who understand what great wine is. The hyperbole, the glittery image of Niagara tourism doesn't impress me in the least. As always, I'm in search of truth and beauty in the wines being crafted here, and this visit gave me a much clearer picture of the dedication and focus of the people here. Many thanks - my writing won't do the wines any justice, but I'll try to put into words the magic that I found in the glass.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Just.........amazing
Amazing. I can't think of any other way to describe what I've experienced in Niagara today. It was raining hard, it was muddy, and it was cold..........but it was by far my greatest wine trip.
I need to reflect on all I've seen, sniffed, and tasted today. Engaged in some fantastic dialogue and learned so much. My knowledge and appreciation for the wines of Niagara has swelled, and I owe it all to the great people I've been so privileged to meet. As I said, I need to reflect before I begin writing about today......................but it's been the greatest wine trip I've ever experienced.
Many thanks to my buddy Rocky, who never fails and never disappoints. Many thanks for rooting around in the mud with me, in the search for truth and beauty in wine.
I need to reflect on all I've seen, sniffed, and tasted today. Engaged in some fantastic dialogue and learned so much. My knowledge and appreciation for the wines of Niagara has swelled, and I owe it all to the great people I've been so privileged to meet. As I said, I need to reflect before I begin writing about today......................but it's been the greatest wine trip I've ever experienced.
Many thanks to my buddy Rocky, who never fails and never disappoints. Many thanks for rooting around in the mud with me, in the search for truth and beauty in wine.
Off to the dirt and vines
Waiting for my comrades to arrive and then we're off to Beamsville. A day of tramping around the dirt, among the vines. Sinuses starting to flare up, but shouldn't be an issue. The palate is still sound and well.
Hoping to learn, and experience the harvest. We'll see. Kicking off the greatest wine trip I've ever done.
---
Blogger's note, 11:31pm:
Ok, we're just dropping like flies. Two comrades are out with the cold. My buddy that remains is sick as well, just like me. And our third amigo needs to head back at 4:30. Yeah, this is turning out to be a fine wine trip. If need be, I'll go alone. Can't risk ruining what goodwill I've managed to establish up there.
Hoping to learn, and experience the harvest. We'll see. Kicking off the greatest wine trip I've ever done.
---
Blogger's note, 11:31pm:
Ok, we're just dropping like flies. Two comrades are out with the cold. My buddy that remains is sick as well, just like me. And our third amigo needs to head back at 4:30. Yeah, this is turning out to be a fine wine trip. If need be, I'll go alone. Can't risk ruining what goodwill I've managed to establish up there.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Picking at grapes
Picking at grapes.
Over the 3 years that I've been exploring Niagara in depth, I've seen and learned many things. Meeting with producers and walking the vineyards has given me a much deeper and meaningful understanding of wine. In my quest to see the vineyards at each stage of development and season, I'm planning to do down this Friday, to experience the harvest.
There may be a problem.
We've been seeing rain everyday for nearly a week now. Cold temperatures as well. This can't be good. From what I've heard, everyone was looking to harvest beginning sometime around the end of this week - who knows what to do now...
I have no knowledge, no training, no experience in the actual production of wine, but I think I would have started picking last week. It started pouring heavily on Saturday, and I would have gone out to the fields then. We had about 3 weeks of beautiful sun and weather, and if the grapes can't achieve physical and phenolic ripeness after that, then they never will. What are you waiting for? A miracle of blue skies and bright sun?
I would have risked picking slightly underripe fruit over waterlogged berries. And that's what they are now. It's been raining, almost nonstop for nearly a week - dilution must be a problem.
We'll see on Friday. Going in with the hard questions, in search of the truth.
Over the 3 years that I've been exploring Niagara in depth, I've seen and learned many things. Meeting with producers and walking the vineyards has given me a much deeper and meaningful understanding of wine. In my quest to see the vineyards at each stage of development and season, I'm planning to do down this Friday, to experience the harvest.
There may be a problem.
We've been seeing rain everyday for nearly a week now. Cold temperatures as well. This can't be good. From what I've heard, everyone was looking to harvest beginning sometime around the end of this week - who knows what to do now...
I have no knowledge, no training, no experience in the actual production of wine, but I think I would have started picking last week. It started pouring heavily on Saturday, and I would have gone out to the fields then. We had about 3 weeks of beautiful sun and weather, and if the grapes can't achieve physical and phenolic ripeness after that, then they never will. What are you waiting for? A miracle of blue skies and bright sun?
I would have risked picking slightly underripe fruit over waterlogged berries. And that's what they are now. It's been raining, almost nonstop for nearly a week - dilution must be a problem.
We'll see on Friday. Going in with the hard questions, in search of the truth.
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