Fuente de la Amapola

The Fountain of the Poppy, in Sacromonte, Granada. As local legend has it, drinking from the fountain brings you kisses from centuries of people who've walked the narrow alleys, climbed the sacred mountain, gazed upon the Alhambra. And, as our lovely guide Rosa told us, it makes you 10 years younger too. 

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the Moor's last sigh

As the Reconquista of the Reyes Católicos claimed the last Muslim stronghold in Spain, Muhammad XII, former lord of the Alhambra, led the royal party south, towards exile. Legend has it that as he reached the last overpass that afforded him a view of Granada and his beloved palace, he reined in his horse, gazed down into the valley for the final time, and promptly burst into tears. His (formidable) mother proceeded to say thus ...

ابك اليوم بكاء النساء على ملك لم تحفظه حفظ الرجال
Thou dost weep like a woman for what thou couldst not defend as a man

And so, that pass was forever called Puerto del Suspiro del Moro - Pass of the Moor's Sigh. The Spanish love telling that story.

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the sound of water

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it's in the details

Every room, every courtyard, every hall of the Alhambra seems to be filled with hidden surprises ...

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shapes and patterns

The geometry, the symmetry, the intricacy, the design. The Alhambra is full of surprises. In the Islamic context, they signify the visualization of the infinite nature of Allah, extending past the visible, material world. The motifs, done in tile and stucco, are undergoing a massive restoration, as the palace suffered from centuries of neglect. The inscriptions are significant too, with the motto of the Nasrid Dynasty given most prominence - 'There is no victor except God'.

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the courtyards of Alhambra

The Calat Alhambra, the grand palace that served as fortress and court of the Nasrid Dynasty, the last Muslim rulers in Europe. Described as 'a pearl set in emeralds', it was used by Christian rulers after the Reconquista. Overlooking the city of Granada, set against the Sierra Nevada mountains, Alhambra is a stunning sight. Majestic yet filled with the most amazingly intricate architectural details ... the photos simply don't do it justice.

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the bright lights on the hill

We had yet another career workshop today. She started off with 'how many of you are interested in finding a job?' Not a great start. Did I find the rest of the session useful? In a word, no. Maybe it's her style, maybe it works with her corporate clients, but at the very least, I think we deserved the courtesy of a proper powerpoint presentation. Stylus-drawn Paint documents are cute and all, but analogies drawn in Paint of 'good managers are like tall trees, and bad managers are like bushes' don't exactly rouse enthusiasm.

I found both Sevilla and Granada to be absolutely stunning at night. They light up the buildings in an amazing amber light. Combined with the dark, starry night sky, it's all very imposing, majestic, all those grand words. Alhambra is especially beautiful at night. High up on the hill, bathed in light. Like the Queen of Sheba laying eyes on King Solomon's palace for the first time, there's a sense of wonder and other-worldliness to Alhambra. From another age, as splendid as it was all those centuries ago.

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beat, and then we turn the corner ...

I am utterly and totally exhausted. Not proud of it, but I nodded off in class today and was caught by my professor. Shameful. My bad. But I've been working my ass off, preparing 3-4 cases a night, as well as keeping up with Spanish class. Modulo 4 finals in 2 weeks. Will I finally feel caught up? Maybe not - maybe for this entire MBA I'll feel out of breath, running on leaden feet. So we learn to find pleasure in the little things.

From Sevilla, we took a very, very early morning train to Granada. Worst idea ever. You can't go out late at night, so that night is wasted. You lose sleep catching the train, so by the time you arrive at the destination, all you want to do is nap. So this whole idea of let's get to the next place early so we have more time to explore is nonsense. Travelling isn't a race to hit as many guidebook must-sees as you can. So, that afternoon, still groggy from illness and lack of sleep, we wandered up to Albayzín. There wasn't much to see, most of the cafes were closed, and it was just an absolute labyrinth of tiny alleys and uneven cobblestone roads. And then we turned the corner, arriving at the Mirador San Nicolas. I sat down, taking in the view, the air, the sun. Not bad, Granada. Not bad.

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on broad, stone shoulders

The grand cathedral of Sevilla, the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede, its construction on top of a former mosque spanning from 1402 to 1517. Holding the (still disputed) remains of 'The illustrious and excellent man, Don Colon, Admiral of the Ocean Sea'. Local legend says that members of the cathedral chapter proclaimed, 'Let us build a church so beautiful and so great that those who see it built will think we were mad'. And mad they were. Travelling around Europe jades you in all its cathedrals and basilicas and chapels, but this is really impressive. Epic, even. Puts the fear and awe of god in you, whether you're a believer or not. From the massive pillars to the naves, to the ornate carvings and of course, the incredible Giralda ... simply an amazing testament to faith, perseverance, commitment, and purpose. As I climbed up the Giralda, the former minaret of the mosque that stood here until Muslim rule, I kept thinking those words. Sure, business school makes you a bit cynical (ie. yet another example of the power and influence, both financial and political, of the Catholic Church), but there's also vision here. There's artistry and craftsmanship. It has endured the test of time. The gardens were beautiful; I was especially interested in the stone tiles built around the orange trees. And of all the views of the cathedral, my favourite was at night, when it's lit up. Against a starry night, moon bright and shimmering ... the facade indeed takes on an ethereal glow.

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flying down south, gazing at grandeur

I jetted down south to Andalusia, landing in Sevilla in the early morning. After taking a much needed nap, strolled out into the bright sun and stumbled into the Kingdom of Wadiya. The Plaza de España, built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. The Renaissance Revival style of Spanish architecture in all its grand, stony glory. The bridges, the tower, the alcoves ... a monument to Spain. 

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in the beautiful sun

I'm back from Andalusia! What a stunning, stunning place. The architecture, the food, the people, the sun ... a world away from Catalunya. Tired, still sick, but so exhilarated at what I've seen these past few days. Need a good 12 hours of sleep, and be back with photos and stories ...

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