the two pinot noirs

2008 Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir | VQA Twenty Mile Bench | Niagara

2008 Hunter's (Jane Hunter) Pinot Noir | Marlborough | New Zealand

These two pinot noirs are a great example of that New World style that's all love, simply unconditional love. Clean varietal aromas and flavour, very pure, very middle of the road. Maybe that's a bad thing, to be too clean. But sometimes all you want is a wine to be a pleasant dinner companion. 

If this past month has taught me anything, it's that I'm a deeply, deeply emotional person. I always knew that, but my life's kind of boring - nothing's really brought out my inner diva. But yes, the end of a relationship brings out all the histrionics, all the emotive actions of an emotionally fragile, introverted, incredibly flawed individual. I apologize to my long-suffering friends who've had to deal with me these past few weeks, because I've been fucking insufferable. And that's when I'm sober. One of my buddies told me that initially, he always thought of LCF as being just wine talk. But lately it's been reading like the diary of a 15 year old girl. I protested, but deep down, I knew he was right. It's like the morning after a heavy night of drinking. You just have to let it all out to feel better.

What were we talking about. Right. New World pinot noir. It's so, so, so wrong to generalize about these wines, but at least these two bottles adhere to that non-offensive style of red wine. Clean, slightly stemmy fruit, not much in way of depth or texture, but otherwise a decent wine on the table. The Flat Rock 2008, a wine I've had many, many times, and actually really enjoyed. But read what I wrote. I cringe in embarrassment ... maybe, just maybe, I was a little too enthusiastic about it. Just a step in my wine education, and proof that the palate changes with experience. The wine has settled down, developing a more subtle, even-toned aroma. Red fruit still there - still some energy here. That tell-tale light red colour, pale almost. Texture is a bit more elegant, although I would never describe this wine as elegant. Simply a more calmer wine, compared to a few years ago. The Jane Hunter, a bit jammier, more overt ripe fruit aromas. Bigger, but only relatively - this is still a lean example of pinot noir. Good, juicy palate, some sweetness.

I want to get over this, to feel normal again. To go to Europe and to school this fall with a sense of optimism and excitement, to find that adventure I've been craving. Is that so bad? Is that so selfish?

DF

liking to go down (under)

2009 Hunter's Pinot Noir | Marlborough

2009 Wakefield Chardonnay | Clare Valley

2011 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling | Clare Valley

I don't care much for the down under. Australians (and their wines) have a certain reputation in North America. Yellowtail and other junk notwithstanding, you get the distinct sense talking to an Australian that no sky is bluer, no grass is greener, no place closer to paradise than being down under. They're great people, they're great people, but your country is a 24 hour flight from anywhere and 2/3 of your land is described as "useless".

Even though I have family there, I've never been to Australia, much less New Zealand. And as for Australia at least, I have no interest in visiting, not even for a look. My feelings for their wines maybe cloud my judgement, but really, if I'm going to subject myself to ~30 hours of travel, there better be a fucking pot of gold at the end of it. And kangaroos and sheep hardly get the pulse racing. NZ on the other hand, sounds absolutely amazing . . .

One of my favourite uncles is going to Australia very soon. I hope he enjoys himself. It's a relatively shorter flight from Shanghai to Melbourne - what they're going to be doing there for the next month or so is less certain. It's almost ironic, but I feel more of a foreigner going back to Mainland China than I do anywhere else. As long as I'm in a place where English is reasonably accepted. China, or rather, Shanghai is a problem because apparently, I can't speak Shanghainese in my city anymore. Everywhere I turn, I see some hick who barely speaks passable Mandarin, much less my language, claiming to be a local. It doesn't work like that. It's cool you like my city so much, it's cool you're the thas wassup, but no, being old Shanghai has to be in your blood. Anyways. My uncle's going to Australia. I wish him a lot of fun, and I hope he drinks a lot of wine.

I want to see New Zealand. First, for the wines, and second, to walk the LOTR trail to Mordor. Wild land, great seafood, fabulous wines . . . suddenly the long, long flight seems completely worthwhile. And not much more can be said about Jane Hunter's wines. An amazing story, and clearly an amazing woman who, in my opinion, consistently produces some of the most exciting wines out of Marlborough. I've drunk a few vintages of her pinot noirs, and each has been delicious. Distinctive, varietal wines that oddly, remind me of the best Niagara pinot noirs - lots of similarities in the character (and style) of the wines of both regions. The 2009 here is no different. Lean, but precise and defined. Pure fruit, some spice, really, really delicious. Cool climate pinot noir, but with beautiful fruit expression.

Everytime I drink a wine from Clare Valley, I'm reminded that I need to give Australian wines a serious look. Balanced wines that actually taste of the varietal, that offer true excitement. A world away from the clownish shit from the rest of the country. Clare Valley is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the country. Settled in the 1840s and named after County Clare in Ireland, Jesuit priests fleeing religious persecution in Silesia (now part of Poland) planted the first vines in 1851. Geographically, the region lies in the mid-north of South Australia, about 120 km north of Adelaide and an hour's drive west of the Barossa Valley. Clare Valley comprises five sub-regions; Sevenhill, Clare, Watervale, Polish Hill River, and Auburn. These sub-regions are reflective of the different interweaving valleys and creek-beds, and thus the differences in soil-type, altitude and climate. The west-facing, higher altitude vineyards are reputed to produce the finest wines. Along with a moderately continental climate, the higher altitude provides cool nights allowing the fruit to ripen more evenly and slowly.

Riesling is the dominant varietal here - truly world class in expression. They're long lived wines, with many demanding anywhere from 5 to 10 years of bottle age to fully open up. Towards the turn of the last century, a collaboration of local winemakers saw all Clare Valley Rieslings put under Stelvin screwcap seals to minimise any chances of defect.

Although much has been written about the climate of this region, in many ways it is difficult to reconcile with its wine styles. Its weather data point to a far warmer climate than is the case; cool afternoon breezes are the key and play a major role in slowing down the ripening process. Furthermore, altitude and position within the Valley as well as aspect all lead to considerable variations in individual site climate. Overall, however, the climate is moderately continental, with cool to cold nights and warm to hot summer days; average summer temperatures hover around 29°C, whereas the opposite is usual for winter. An average rainfall of 632mm and an average winter temperature of 13° mean that Clare Valley is one of mainland Australia's coolest wine regions. The soils vary, from red to brown grey in colour, and with significant limestone sub-soil content, particularly in the more southerly subregions. The harvest begins in early March and finishes, typically, with riesling coming in last in late April.

With this type of terroir, there's no reason why other varietals wouldn't be successful - chardonnay, cabernet, and my goodness, possibly a syrah (sorry, shiraz) out of Australia that actually tastes like syrah. The chardonnay here - wonderful. Instantly recognizable chardonnay, that creamy citrus fruit. Good amounts of ripeness, with just a kiss of oak. Balanced, with alcohol, acid, and fruit achieving great integration. Fabulous. And the Jim Barry riesling; OH MY GOD. Incredible. Lean and mineral, zippy citrus. High acid, with an almost perfect amount of dry extract on the palate. Long, and very ageworthy in style. True riesling, that perfect balance between traditional minerality and structure, and new world purity of fruit. A beauty.

DF

the sauvignon blanc for hotpot

2009 Leopard's Leap Sauvignon Blanc | Western Cape | South Africa

2010 Elgin Valley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc | Elgin Valley | South Africa

2009 Durvillea Sauvignon Blanc | Marlborough | New Zealand

After watching the tv event of the year (Victoria's Secret Fashion Show, duh), I was inspired. They're all badass as hell, but Candice Swanepoel takes it to a whole . . . 'nother . . . jaw-dropping . . . tongue-wagging . . . mind-blowing . . . level. South African wines don't usually catch my eye, but damn, CS makes me want to pay more attention.

So, sauvignon blanc with hotpot. I had some friends over, wanting to do something heavy on seafood and greens. They brought over the most amazingly thin slices of beef and pork as well, to round it out. We had so much food - far too much for 6 people, but I was hungry and ready for the challenge. New world sauvignon blanc can be interesting, sort of the other half of the more traditional character of this wine (dry white Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé). New Zealand's famous for that clean, overtly fruit-forward style, with the herbal notes that blast you in the face. No subtlety there, but I was interested to see how the South Africans were handling it.

Turns out, not that well. Both wines were lean, not usually an issue with sauvignon, but in this case a bit overly so. Without body or texture, the wines are just shrill, a mess of green aromas and cheap fruit. But the New Zealand sauvignon wasn't that much better. Tropical fruits, pineapple and all that, with a marked sweetness on the palate.

A forgettable trio of wines. Sauvignon blanc does well in a lot of different styles, but personally, the benchmark I hold it to are the dry whites of Bordeaux. Handled in oak, they have all the aromatics and texture I look for in a great white wine. Well extracted acidity give some excitement on the palate as well as the ability to age. Don't want to stupidly put out any blanket statements, especially after tasting 2 (!) South African wines . . . but maybe they need a bit more time to learn how to handle sauvignon, and perhaps decide if there's a future for this varietal.

DF

2010 Central Otago Pinot Noir

2010 Thatched Hut Pinot Noir | Central Otago | New Zealand

I shouldn't be, but seeing 2010 vintages on shelves is still a bit jarring, until I remember that the southern hemisphere's harvest is a good half year or more ahead of ours. Central Otago is regarded as the source of the finest pinot noirs out of New Zealand, with the prices to match. It's difficult to find good wines from here under $30, not to mention under $20. Online Colleges have information on culinary and cooking degrees for people who love good food and wine.

I love the wines, as New Zealand reminds me in many ways of Niagara. Both are regions attracting lots of new investment, bringing together the best of traditional viticulture with the newest technologies. With a focus on the grand varietals of France, the best producers are able to produce singular wines which give hope that there is terroir to be found. The wines (obviously different) share some common elements that are so exciting - that freshness, that beautiful purity that is the hallmark of New World wines, but also the linear structure and mineral character found in the best French wines. So much character, and with a few more vintages, hopefully we'll see if there is such a thing as the New Zealand and the Niagara terroir.

So, a more reasonably priced estate level pinot noir of Central Otago. Bottled under stelvin, as expected, and given a hard chill. I like screwcaps, but not when there's reduction. And yes, it's as bad as TCA. Red berries, stemmy, nutty oak - I've found that slight greenness in a lot of NZ pinot noirs, and I quite like it. Dry, austere, lean - balanced, finishes with a bit of spice. Maybe the buildup suggested a bit more, but this wine did what its supposed to do - simple, varietal pinot noir. Yes.

DF

2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir

2008 Staete Landt Pinot Noir, Marlborough

Oh look, I haven't drank a New Zealand wine in nearly a full year. And oh look, it's from the same producer. Somehow the name seems South African to me, but the wine sings completely of Marlborough. I was so impressed with the riesling. This bottle, quite expensive, but the Kiwis have certainly not been shy about pricing their pinot noirs, particularly from Otago.

Very pale in colour, a beautifully luminous red. Shows lots of sour red berries, underripe cranberries and strawberries. Fragrant. Some rose petals, spice, a bit of earthiness - I could mistake this for a 2008 Flat Rock pinot noir, both from colour and bouquet. This does show an impressive intensity, an almost churlish turn which follows on the palate. Quite aggressive and extracted acidity. Needs time to settle down a bit, but very intriguing example of a more leaner, racier style of pinot noir.

DF

2008 Marlborough

2008 Staete Landt Estate Riesling Auslese, Marlborough

How interesting is this - a New Zealand riesling labelled in the German manner, in this case, an Auslese. From the region of Rapaura in New Zealand's South Island, I had every expectation that this was a riesling made in the tradition of the gems from the Mosel and Rheingau. I was so right - this riesling is all sex, all style.

The bouquet is so gorgeous, busting with minerals, citrus, and lanolin cream aromas. The richness is apparent, which carries to the intense palate. Very crunchy, substantial amounts of extract in the mouth, impeccably balanced and so long. A clean wine, no botrytis aromas or flavours, if the grapes were allowed to botrytise. Builds and builds, relentlessly. Holds up well to the third day.

Certainly an impressive wine. It would be fanciful to think that it's the soil that contributes to this intensity and extract, wouldn't it? Could be the low yields, age of the vines, sur lie aging - any number of things, but this is a spectacular wine. I'm convinced more than ever that when New Zealand gets it right, it's really right.

DF

2008 Marlborough

2008 Lake Chalice Pinot Noir, Marlborough

A New Zealand pinot noir, for a change. I like Marlborough. The north end of South Island, it's sort of the poor cousin to Central Otago, which has achieved the reputation of producing New Zealand's finest wines. That's a bit unfair, no? Because I've had some great wines from Marlborough, at the fraction of the price of some Otago wines. But I kind of like that they're a bit under-appreciated. I always like the underdog.

Pale in colour, but the intensity is great - pure fruit, earthy twigs, and lots of rose petals, the hallmarks of varietally correct pinot noir wines. The alcohol is a bit unbalanced, on a linear palate. Not a great wine, after that first paragraph, but let's remember that this is still a baby.

DF

2009 Hawke's Bay

2009 Sileni Cellar Selections Pinot Noir, Hawke's Bay, North Island

After being pleasantly surprised by their syrah, I just had to have a taste of this producer's pinot noir. Alas, not nearly as good. Not anywhere as good.

Candied, confected, over-macerated, pulverized fruit. Plonk, in other words. Are they handling this wine like a syrah? Or do they just not care? If this is the New Zealand pinot noir that people are being introduced to.......................why would you bother to try another one?

DF

2007 Hawke's Bay

2007 Sileni Cellar Selections Syrah, Hawke's Bay, North Island

I really didn't expect this wine to be so satisfying. Just curious, and really wanted a syrah - my first bottle of this varietal from New Zealand. A beautiful colour, rich, pure fruit with enough earthiness to remind you of what it is. And most important, balance! My goodness, it must be a miracle. A New World syrah without a whiff of searing alcohol!

DF

2008 Marlborough

2008 Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

The third wine of the night. Our dinner theme was oysters, so why not another sauvignon blanc? This time, one from New Zealand, which is now known as one of the world's preeminent regions for sauvignon.

Light colour, clear rim. Again, that tell-tale vegetal nose, but this time with more fruit. This follows on the palate, where the ripe citrus really shows. Sweeter in texture, and much more crowd-pleasing. I still prefer the Pouilly-Fumé over this wine, but it was drinkable. Just occupies a different space entirely.

I used this wine to steam my mussels, so naturally, we ate it together. Worked well. The richness of the mussel stock married well with the crispness of the wine, and its fruit provided a nice pop of flavour. Good!

2004 Central Otago

2004 Nevis Bluff Pinot Noir, Central Otago

Another Central Otago, New Zealand wine came up recently, and of course, I wasn't ready to give up on this region. The examples I've drank so far have been disappointing. Quite expensive, without the intensity and elegance I'd like in a pinot noir. It's even more upsetting when I drink $20 Niagara pinot noirs that are much more profound wines. But this wine changed the perception of what New Zealand can produce.

This is, of course, bottled under a screwcap, and is one of the older wines under this kind of closure that I've tasted. I have no doubt that the screwcap is a more airtight closure than cork, but there is no emperical data on how they age. Until we're able to see wines bottled this way after 10 or 20 years, it is absolutely ridiculous that people are proclaiming screwcap to be better than cork.

The wine has a light red robe, very typical of pinot noir. What's odd is that the colour lacks luminosity. I don't want to describe it as browning, but there is a somewhat dull sheen to it. Very intense nose of red fruits (cranberry, cherry), herbs, brambles, and an excellent pinot noir character. In the mouth, there's lots of sour red fruit, but with a sweetness that's very succulent. Excellent acidity and balance - the alcohol is undetectable, which is a very pleasant surprise. Lingering finish. What a fantastically balanced, nuanced wine.

What's the greatest surprise for this wine is how well integrated all the components are. The alcohol, the acidity, the very fine tannins. Beautiful. So wonderful. Maybe it's because it has a few years of age, and the other wines I've drank are very young. But this is an absolutely delicious wine.

2006 Central Otago

2006 Carrick Pinot Noir, Central Otago NZ

Central Otago has become one of the most hyped regions in the New World for pinot noir. New Zealand on the whole has attracted so much attention, and rightly so. They understand what works, and know how to make styles that bridge between Californian bombs and Burgundian jewels. The industry there is so new, and is centered around sauvignon blanc and pinot noir - and I'm a huge fan.

You can't, however, make a judgement on a region from a single bottle, and I certainly won't make that mistake here. I believe in New Zealand, and want to explore more - this bottle simply did not meet expectations.

Good light colour, very red - just what pinot noir should be. Subtle, more subdued nose of red fruits, berries, bramble and earth - classic pinot perfume. Very bright. Fruit forward, but a much more Burgundian nose than the Palliser. My drinking companion guessed it as French, from nosing it. Quite an astute observation - this is a very subtle wine. The alcohol is quite noticeable though.

On the palate, some sweetness, silky texture, and an explosion of red fruits on the finish. Fireworks in the mouth, but which unfortunately instantly die off. Very little length on this wine. Maybe its at an awkward stage, but this wine has no strength on the finish. Just a pop of fruit, and then nothing. Very bitter alcohol.

The alcohol disturbs me very much, much like the aforementioned Palliser. Maybe it's the vintage, but the alcohol is out of control. Masks a lot of nuance, unfortunately. I don't understand these high-alcohol wines - they just don't belong on the table, as they just don't pair with any food. A hunking piece of seared, smoked and charred meat perhaps, but anything more delicate is swallowed by the alcohol.

A bit unfortunate. This is a $40 bottle, and for that price, I expect better balance and a stronger finish. Too bad. Lots of fireworks, little substance.

2006 Martinborough

2006 Palliser Estate Pinot Noir, Martinborough NZ

New Zealand, far, far away in the Southern Hemisphere, but whose wines evoke such global recognition. Martinborough, the southern-most tip of North Island. Martinborough is not as well known as the South Island appellations, such as Marlborough or Central Otago, but it's certainly worth the experience to compare wines from both islands.

Light red in colour, which is what I want to see from a pinot noir. Intense, booming nose of strawberry, sour cherries, some fine green aromas, as well as a brambly, earthy root character so typical of good pinot noir. The alcohol burns the bouquet though - it's very noticeable, as I drank it only slightly chilled. On the palate, this shows as a very fruit-forward wine, showcasing lots of red fruits, aforementioned strawberry, beetroot, celery, and earthiness. Very bright fruit, good acidity. Decent complexity, on a very sweet texture and silky feel.

The finish is quite spectactular. Just an explosion of red berries right at the finish - bright fireworks, which quickly flame out. Finish drops off abruptly, with very little length. The alcohol disturbs me very much. It's a listed 14% alcohol, but I will stake my entire reputation and all the credibility I have that there is AT LEAST 14.5%. If I'm wrong, I should just stop drinking wine, period. Yes, I'm that confident - if there is really only 14% alcohol in this wine, I will eat the bottle.

A bit disappointed. A blockbuster, International style of wine. This idea that a wine has to be sweetly textured, silky, and high alcohol to be drinkable is just absurd! The overripeness completely obfuscates its ability to pair with food. Wine that makes you want to lie down after 2 glasses has no place on the table. Just another flabby bottle for the porkers who insist on "easy-drinking" wines. Grrrrrr.