Niagara Gold

On my trip to Niagara in early May of this year, I finally had the opportunity to visit Upper Canada Cheese Company. Great place, lots of artisanal cheese, representing the finest the Niagara terroir offers.

This is their most famous product, called Niagara Gold. Made of Guernsey cow's milk, this is an oka-style cheese, semi-hard, very delicious. Rich, creamy, but still retains a firm texture. Wonderful, and at $60 a kilo, this is an impressive cheese indeed. Finishes round, very long.

DF

2008 Alsace

2008 Heimberger Les Origines Vielles Vignes Riesling, AC Alsace

In contrast to the lovely tension filled rieslings of Germany, Alsace somehow feels lumbering, unrefined, clumsy almost. Rich bouquet, citrus fruit, but the alcohol really roars. I suppose it may be an issue to what my palate perceives as balance, but these wines just feel a bit overdone. A more elegant touch would be beneficial - especially out of what you claim to be old vines.

DF

2008 Rheinhessen

2008 Geil Riesling Kabinett, QmP Bechtheimer Rosengarten, Rheinhessen

Something new, for my palate at least. Great to explore other riesling producing regions of Germany. A very bright wine, all fireworks of citrus, minerality, and high-strung acidity. Lovely and exciting, riesling in all its youthful glory.

DF

St-Ambroise Pale Ale

St-Ambroise McAuslan Pale Ale

This is a great brewery. St-Ambroise produces so many beers that I love - their stout is a recent favourite. This pale ale is an old standby, all rich malt, good hops, round character. Great beer with food.

DF

2008 Marlborough

2008 Lake Chalice Pinot Noir, Marlborough

A New Zealand pinot noir, for a change. I like Marlborough. The north end of South Island, it's sort of the poor cousin to Central Otago, which has achieved the reputation of producing New Zealand's finest wines. That's a bit unfair, no? Because I've had some great wines from Marlborough, at the fraction of the price of some Otago wines. But I kind of like that they're a bit under-appreciated. I always like the underdog.

Pale in colour, but the intensity is great - pure fruit, earthy twigs, and lots of rose petals, the hallmarks of varietally correct pinot noir wines. The alcohol is a bit unbalanced, on a linear palate. Not a great wine, after that first paragraph, but let's remember that this is still a baby.

DF

2006 Cotes de Castillon

2006 Château Fongaban, AC Côtes de Castillon

Back to wine! Took a lot of time off from writing about wine to develop. I want to keep being eloquent and articulate about wine, without resorting to the usual tricks that far too many supposed wine writers turn to.

A 2006 claret. Beautiful colour, not too dark, fully saturated. Has all the pure fruit, subtle oak, and savoury character of true Bordeaux. Rustic, with that fantastically pinpoint graphite minerality. Elegant at the moment, but so, so young. I still believe in Bordeaux, regardless what the fashion is now - so called wine geeks bashing the entire region for blindly turning to commercialism. That's a bit unfair. Especially when good, value wines like this are still being produced.

DF

The man is ice

Grey D'Urban wool MTM suit, Brooks Brothers cotton shirt, Paul Smith silk handkerchief, Haibao lapel pin, Banana Republic leather belt, D&G eyewear

Can I just say, straight up and down, that I am rocking the shit out of this suit. Hot day, attending a formal event, but not so that a tie was required. The handkerchief compensates for the lack of neckwear. Black belt, with dark shoes, to respect the formality - otherwise it'd be a much lighter brown. It's the glasses. Yeah, it's all about the eyewear.

DF

In robes and colours

This past weekend, my buddy ROKChoi graduated and received his degree in Engineering. A big moment. This day seemed so distant when we were living together, but it's here. Time for real life. But before we get to it, there's still time for some fun...the three cool cats. Congratulations, old friend.

DF

Biting into Apple

I've been agonizing about it since last July, but finally, I bought my first Apple computer. The newly updated 13" Macbook Pro. I'm not a tech guy, definitely not a nerd, so not going to talk too much about it, except.......this computer is pure awesome. Yes, I documented all the unwrapping, but I won't show that. I'm not that uncouth, it's not like we're talking about a bottle of Mouton here.

DF

At the end of things

And like that, my time in Shanghai was over. An exhausting turn through customs at Pudong International Airport - overweight luggage, new baggage content restrictions. But we got through, alive. Covered in sweat, a little aggravated, a little wired - I needed a beer. Good, simple, refreshing Kirin.

So what of my time here? As I've shared over the past month and a half or so, I saw a lot of new things, gained some new insight into Shanghai...overall a successful trip. Always good to see and spend time with family, to pay your respects to your ancestors, and to remember where you come from. Food's not bad either. Also, this trip marked the first time I actively looked to always shoot photos. Always looking around, always checking for opportunities for good shots - yes, at times I was the obnoxious guy with the camera, showing no regard for other people in a public space. Hope you enjoyed the photos, and of course, always looking to improve.

Many thanks for your patience. These few weeks of writing exclusively about my trip have given me an opportunity to take a break from wine writing. I needed a break, to continue developing how I write about wine. As I return to this blog's proper subject matter, I hope that my writing is more articulate, more relevant, and more enjoyable to read. Here we go again!

DF

In the words of Comrade Deng

The father of modern China, our ever wise Comrade Deng XiaoPing. The story is that in the 1980's, as his economic reforms were coming to life, he came to Shanghai, circled an area on a map, and created Pudong. This was going to be the nerve centre of China's new economy. His presence hangs, still, over the city. The message reads to the effect of Continue to develop Pudong, without rest, until our dreams are realized.

DF

Streaming down, rising up

Pudong, Shanghai. Across the HuangPu River, to the east side of the city. It is magnificent. Against the backdrop of the Oriental Pearl Tower, trees adorned with LED streamers, people milling about - world class urbanity.

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West of the river

The renovations on the Bund are finally complete. Raised walkways, lit fountains, bright lights. The greatest waterfront in the world. Shanghai, China.

DF

The Bund at night

Back to the Bund a few days before I left Shanghai. As this was the period of the 2010 World Exposition, they keep the lights on all night. The buildings are stunning. Heavy police presence, but what was more unsettling was the enormous crowd. All non-Shanghainese out of towners. But I was there that night too, so what does that make me...

The way they project the lights, the grand outlines of the buildings - this is my city, a cosmopolitan urban paradise like no other.

DF

2004 Toscano

2004 Cabreo Il Borgo, IGT Toscano

You know, I was always offended by SuperTuscans. Or rather, what these wines represented. Sangiovese is a stunning grape, if done properly - why the Italians would feel the need to punch up the wines and make Tuscan clarets is a mystery. Money? Sure, but at the expense of your history, culture, and heritage?


Having said that - and I need to admit that I don't have much experience with SuperTuscans (something to do with price) - I was very impressed with this wine. The most memorable one for me, as it was dense with lots of graphite minerality, concentrated high tannic grip, with fantastic length. One to ably compete with fine Bordeaux.

DF

2006 Saint-Julien

2006 Château Lalande, AC Saint-Julien

A cru bourgeois Bordeaux, the most expensive wine offered at Vino Venue that day. Dark colour, dark berries and graphite on the bouquet, dense, high tannins, needs a good decade of bottle age. Very textbook Bordeaux character, which is good to see (and taste). Why they would put such a young, hard, tannic Bordeaux up for tasting is beyond me.

DF

2004 Rosso di Montalcino

2004 Fattoria dei Barbi, DOC Rosso di Montalcino

An unremarkable wine, because my notes read ...unremarkable, because I can't remember a single damn thing about this wine. An indication of the quality of the vast majority of Italian red wines nowadays?

DF

2006 Wrattonbully

2006 Briar Ridge Big Bully Cabernet Sauvignon, Wrattonbully

See what I mean about Vino Venue's love for Australia? This wine showed quite well - pure, balanced fruit, minty cabernet, well integrated alcohol, controlled oak - a terrific example of how restrained and elegant Australian wines can be if the palates involved understand wine.

DF

2006 Colchagua

2006 Los Vascos Grande Reserve, Colchagua

A star Chilean, from the Lafite Rothschild stable. Dominated by cabernet sauvignon, with the other parts made up by carménère, syrah and malbec. Dark colour, herbal and almost medicinal bouquet, lacking in fruit. They need a better understanding of their vineyard - this is not a good effort. More carménère would help.

DF

2007 Lodi

2007 Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin Zinfandel, Lodi

I don't drink much zinfandel. I don't like it, I don't see how it matches with food, and I just don't see the point of paying money to drink a ridiculously cartoonish wine. This one confirmed all of that for me. It was a monster, just all stewed fruit, hot and cooked, an undrinkable mess of a wine. Only Americans could like this shit.

DF

2008 Mendoza

2008 Alamos Selección Pinot Noir, Mendoza

This is an interesting one. Pale ruby red in colour, great first impression. Lots of crushed roses, very delicate, lots of varietal character. A delicious interpretation of pinot noir, very subtle and aromatic.

DF

2006 Hunter Valley

2006 Riverwood Chardonnay, Hunter Valley

Onto another Australian chardonnay. Well balanced, lean fruit, controlled oak - hey, this is more than just drinkable.

DF

2007 Bordeaux Blanc

2007 Pierre Rivière Signé Nature, AC Bordeaux

This claims to be an organic wine. White Bordeaux from who knows which appellation. Simple, easy wine for simple, easy palates.

DF

2005 South Eastern Australia

2005 Pepper Tree Wines Chardonnary, South Eastern Australia

I've heard horror stories about wines labelled as coming from South Eastern Australia - that term can refer to about 2/3 of the country. Low expectations, and the wine lived up to them. Buttery, creamy oak, but with enough acidity so that it stays drinkable.

DF

2008 Hunter Valley

2008 Pepper Tree Verdelho, Hunter Valley

Since selection was limited in terms of country, I figured I might as well plunge myself into Australia. Pale colour, green bouquet, lean, and needs age.

DF

2005 Bordeaux Blanc

2005 Château La Fontaine de Genin, AC Bordeaux

White Bordeaux to start. Lots of grassy, floral sauvignon, high acidity, but does lack concentration.

DF

What you need to start drinking

And here is all you need at Vino Venue. An Enomatic card. A stem (not perfect, but serviceable). And a roaring ambition to taste as many wines as you can in 45 minutes. Vino Venue, Shanghai.

DF

Vino Venue, interior

Inside Vino Venue, Shanghai. Really well appointed inside, comfortable chairs, cozy environment. We were the only ones. It was about 2 in the afternoon, perfect time to start drinking.

The banks of Enomatic machines are impressive. The selection? I was hoping for more white wines - probably 75% was red, with a focus on South America and Australia, with Bordeaux and SuperTuscany well represented. Was hoping for maybe Germany, or Spain, or Chinese wines. See, this is exactly the stuff that yuppies like to drink!

DF

Vino Venue Shanghai

This is Vino Venue in Shangai, 1970 HongQiao Road. A bit out of place, but the concept is interesting - a place for wine tasting and socializing, featuring several Enomatic machines. Sort of a cool place for the ex-patriate crowd to chill. I know how these things turn out. Willing to bet money that patrons are yuppies swirling wine like that's that - not a lot of fun. But I wanted to go take a look. Went out after lunch, turns out this place is in the middle of nowhere - and I'm pretty sure that cab driver was taking us for a ride. More photos, and wines tasted, next.

DF

Hop right into my wok

The star of our lunch, frog cooked in the Hunan style, lots of chili peppers, along with leeks, bamboo and green onion. Lovely. They serve it in a wok, and light a fire underneath so that it bubbles throughout the meal. Incredible flavour. The frog meat is so savoury, with just the most amazing texture. Spicy, but delicate at the same time, one of the great contradictions, and the great appeals of Hunan cuisine. Greatly enjoyed at WangXiangYuan Restaurant, Shanghai.

Another thing I noticed - every dish comes with a number attached, for example, number 3. That number corresponds to the chef that cooked it. Therefore, if you enjoy a dish cooked by a certain chef, you can request that the same chef cook your meal the next time you come in. A very novel concept. I just love the fact that the restaurant is doing well because of attention to detail and to food quality. That is key. They renovated, and the staff have great new uniforms, but the key and the focus is always, always, fucking always on the food. Period.

I enjoyed lunch with a Hunan beer. A light lager, very refreshing, perfectly cleansing the palate of fire. And our server was so cute - a young girl from Hunan. Talk to these girls politely, smile, and you'll receive wonderful service. I love this restaurant. So funny that of all the great places I ate at on this trip, the one that captured my heart featured cuisine from half the country away, as foreign to Shanghai as seared foie gras and truffles.

DF

Head in two

One of our dishes, fish head, simmered in chili oil. Lots of flavour. The key with cooking with chili is to make sure that the spiciness is not a screen to mask ingredients that aren't fresh. No, the fish was very fresh, and the sweet flavour of the meat comes through, even with the spices. That is perfect cooking. The red on top is chopped chili peppers, marinated. Really delicate flavours in fact, a good example of Hunan cooking. In contrast to Sichuan cuisine, which features peppercorns and numbing spices, Hunan cuisine has a lot of chili peppers, and chili oil. Spicy, but more subtle. Enjoyed in WangXiangYuan Restaurant, Shanghai.

DF

From the home of the Helmsman

The gastronomic trend in Shanghai has been towards more spicy cuisine. Powerful, assertive flavours, possibly due to a function of people eating out more. Subtle, delicate foods just don't create an impression on the palate anymore. A shame, but at least authentic spicy, regional cuisine is better than any over-seasoned, MSG-laden stodge. We found a restaurant the last time I was in Shanghai, in 2008. Called WangXiangYuan, Southern Memory, this was a restaurant specializing in authentic Hunan cuisine, staffed completely with Hunan natives. I fell in love with this place - the food was perfectly cooked, authentic, spicy with perfect flavour. Fresh produce, authentic cooking, great service - all the ingredients to a successful restaurant. One of my missions was to find this place again. I knew how competitive the restaurant business in Shanghai is, and I knew that if it was still open, it confirmed many things; that spicy cuisine was a growing trend, and that the restaurant had maintained its quality.

This was one of our starting cold dishes. An almost coral like sea vegetable, clear, very crunch, fantastic structure. Dressed in a chili oil sauce, this was one of my favourite dishes this entire trip. Right, and the left hand belongs to my lovely cousin, who I managed to trick into to spending the day with me.

DF

2006 Marlborough

2006 Nautilus Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand

Why not go for the other pinot noir in the Enomatic machine? Yeah, why not. 28 RMB for this taste, a darker red colour, impressively saturated. Balanced, sweet, with bright fruit. Pleasant, drinkable, open. Not the intellectual Burgundy, but very charming. Tasted at PuDao, Shanghai.

DF

2006 Gevrey-Chambertin

2006 Bouchard Père & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin, AC Gevrey-Chambertin

The wines in the machine at PuDao the day I was in weren't that interesting - my opinion at least. So I went for the Burgundy. Pretty expensive taste, 40 RMB (about $6 Cdn) for no more than 1.5 oz. At least the stems were nice, Spigelau. Vibrant red in colour, earthy and rustic, showing off the charm of Gevrey-Chambertin quite nicely. Good fruit, grippy tannins, big structure. Tasting it far too young, but this is a good one.

DF

Argon in, happiness out

This is PuDao's Enomatic machine. I've never seen one in my life - I was fascinated. The store has a membership system, where members receive a card to taste wines. You simply stick your card into the machine, select how much wine you want (tasting sample or a full glass), and pay on your way out. If I was let loose in here - uh oh. I could easily see myself coming here every week, tasting my wallet dry. The pretty girls working here don't make it easy to resist either. The two wines I tasted, next.

DF

PuDao: The Wine Way

This is PuDao: The Wine Way, the finest wine shop in Shanghai. Owned by a European restauranteur, it's very famous in ex-pat circles, and well-heeled wine connoisseurs. Some lovely girls working inside. Very knowledgable, very insightful about the wine scene in Shanghai and China - very sexy. Decor is beautiful, very warm wood panels. Wine selection is expensive, but wide-reaching. Staff definitely know wine. Good selection of premium Bordeaux (as expected), but also some interesting Burgundies. Large selection from Australia. Too bad they don't carry too many domestic Chinese wines, but the quality here is apparent. What's also interesting is their Enomatic machine, offering customers a taste of a variety of different wine regions. Never the same wines going in, this is a great opportunity for customers to simply learn about wine.

Had a great time, gained a much better understanding of how wine is interpreted and enjoyed in China. Located at House 102, Ferguson Lane, 376 WuKang Road, Shanghai.

DF

376 Wukang Road

Look how charming this place is. 376 Wukang Road, Shanghai. What was I doing here? I was looking for a very special corner where wine connoisseurs gather in Shanghai. Please read on for the name, the spectacular view inside, and the wines tasted.

DF

Blood red

These were the centrepiece of the dinner my aunt cooked. Clams, eaten as sashimi, dipped with a thick vinaigrette sauce. My uncle shelled these, cleaned them, and told me to start stuffing my face. Good man. These bleed bright red - a little unsettling, but the texture was extraordinary and flavour, perfect.

DF

Open up little one

They call these kidney clams in Shanghai. When live, they have these little snouts that stick out of the shell and move around. So tender when steamed with a bit of wine. All the savoury qualities of fine shellfish.

DF

Numbingly good

Beef tendon, in the SiChuan style. Lots of numbing peppercorns, chili peppers, white radish. So much flavour, the texture of the tendons is extraordinary. Can be a little too much pleasure to handle.

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Steamed bright

This is a specialty of Ningbo. A cured fish, salted and dried in the wind, then steamed. Served with a drop of rice vinegar, perfect in flavour and texture.

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Crunch

A new dish for me - pickled white radish, very crunchy, very unique. A bit of that raw spiciness that white radish has, but otherwise very balanced in flavour.

DF

Greens in trend

It's becoming fashionable for the Shanghainese to eat their greens raw. I have absolutely no clue what the English word for these greens are, but they were eaten fresh, tossed with a bit of vinegar and black sesame seeds. Slightly bitter, very crunchy, palate cleansing. I felt healthier eating it, and trendier too.

DF

Lean pork

Another dish, soy sauce cured pork, steamed. Very lean, great texture, white meat done right.

DF

Bright orange

Won't post every single one of my aunt's dishes, but these are just too special to pass up. Sautéed shrimp, glistening and bright.

DF

Comfort food

Back in Shanghai, back home. The following day after we arrived back from HangZhou, we went to dinner at my aunt's place. My aunt is, by far, unequivocally the finest cook I know. I absolutely adore her food - her dinner is a required attraction everytime I'm in Shanghai. And before all the rest of guests arrived, I was served this - a snout-nosed turtle, steamed with ginger and onion, all for myself. This is an absolute delicacy. Nothing wasted, very nutritious, absolutely delicious. Perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned...truly a dish fit for a king. The rustic meat, the delicate bones, the soft matter in the shell - these turtles are only available, live, in China, and I salivate at the chance to eat. One every year or so........too infrequent, but this dish is truly to die for. Fucking delicious.

DF

T8, in the lounge

Inside T8 Restaurant, where you get to choose to sit either at the bar or in the lounge at night. Really dark, really cozy inside. The centre of the dining room, walled by glass, is the open kitchen. Racks of none too interesting wines line the shelves. I just went in to have a glass of wine - I forgot I was in Shanghai. It ended up costing about $15 for a glass of nondescript Alsatian riesling, and about $18 for a glass of an estate Mosel riesling. Horrific. But the ambiance was nice. XinTianDi, Shanghai.

DF