Friday, July 11, 2008

Mojito

I only drink 2 cocktails - one of them being gin-tonic and the other being a mojito. But then again, every man should drink gin-tonic...that just goes without saying.


But mojitos - I just have a weakness for them. Where did this even start? I think I just heard the name randomly, got a little curious, and ordered it the last time we were in Panorama. Wow, that was a while ago. Going on 2 years.

It was delicious. Clean flavours - the acidity of the lime with the crispness and freshness of the mint balances the drink. Of course, you need a good punch in a cocktail, and the rum does a great job at that. The drink is all about balance and complexity of flavours. Everything just works so well together, accentuating each other, instead of trying to outdo one another.

After much experimentation, over the course of last summer, I think I make the best mojito in the Northern Hemisphere. No lie. Here's what I do.

The Tools:




Use a lot of mint. Just use the leaves, about 12 of them.

In a highball glass.

Add fresh-squeezed lime juice. Must be fresh, I can't stress that enough.

Muddle.

Add a full glass of ice, preferably in tiny cubes.

Add Perrier.

Add simple syrup. It's called 'simple' for a reason - just sugar and water.

Add premium, aged rum - not that cheap shit, not that spiced shit, none of that nonsense.

Stir.

No straw.

The Masterpiece:




The key is freshness and quality. The lime juice and mint must be fresh. The ice must be distilled water. The syrup must be made with cane sugar. The sparkling water must be spring water.

And the rum has to be premium, oak aged rum. I use 12 years old Nicaraguan rum. To me, the vanilla and the richness from the oak balances it out so wonderfully. This pictures shows a drink I made with Havana Club Anejo Blanco, a white rum. More herbaceous, more of an alcoholic kick to it. But I definitely prefer the aged rum.

As for proportions, that's up to you. If you like lime, use more lime. More sweetness, then add more syrup. I love a strong drink, so instead of 1 ounce of rum, I use 2 1/4 ounces.

Of course, no straw. You don't want people to think you're a pansy, do you?

Too many people go out and drink cheap shit just for the sake of getting drunk. You're putting this stuff into your body - if you're going to get drunk, do it with quality and style.

Colheita Port

After dinner with the Mouton, I opened a bottle of port that I just bought a few months ago. I've always been fascinated with port, with its history in particular.

This was a 1980 Kopke Colheita Port. From what I understand, Colheita Ports are the rarest of all ports, making up only about 1% of Portugal's total port production. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this. In any case, this wine is rare! This is because of the extraordinary amount of time it spends in barrel. This bottle for instance, wasn't bottled until 2007, making it 27 years in oak. It's been in oak longer than I've been alive.

I also picked up a bottle of the 1981 vintage. Just because.

I'm drinking a glass now, so I can tell you that it's a dark amber, very caramelized, very deep. It just fills the room with warm, toasty aromas of toffee, caramel, butterscotch, chocolate - I can keep going on and on, it's just so complex. It's magic in the mouth. Rich and velvety, the sweetness is just perfect. Not cloying, but teases the mouth just so. The finish is magnificent - crunchy wafers and dried fruits, it's smooth, and stays hauntingly long in the mouth. Glorious.


A Grand Wine


Two weeks ago, on a Saturday, I had one of the great wine experiences that I'll keep looking back fondly on. We cooked a big dinner, lots of fresh local produce, and of course, I opened a very grand wine.

For dinner, a 1991 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, AC Pauillac. Now, I understand 1991 was a horrifically awful year for Bordeaux. But there really aren't many times that I have the opportunity to drink mature claret, much less a Premier Cru, so this is a blessing.

This bottle was a gift from a dear family friend, and quite frankly, my idol. I really respect and look up to him, so you can imagine how excited I was when he presented me with my first Mouton. The bottle was in great shape, which is a testament to his great cellar, and how he cares for his wines.

The cork was fine for its age. Didn't break at all, coming out cleanly. The print was still legible, no rot, nothing. The wine looked remarkably young in the glass. Still a ruby red in the center, with just the slightest brownish orange tint at the outer rim. Just a slight variation in colour saturation.

It was the nose that threw me off. It smelled...oaky, with hints of cabernet character. Just hints. And in the mouth - this overwhelming acidity, no doubt an indication of climate conditions in 1991. Thin, insipid. But it was after an hour that it really started to show why this wasn't just an ordinary claret.

The wine developed this spicy, mocha character that was so warm and inviting. It really gained weight in the mouth, and richness. And the sweetness! My goodness, it became just so sweet and so delicious. The acidity was there, making the finish a bit disjointed. But what a glorious experience. This is truly a Grand Wine - there simply aren't many wines that can develop and change character so dramatically in the glass. And it kept developing throughout the night. When I finished the bottle about 7 hours later, it left this deep, warm, earthy aroma that filled the room and filled, sincerely, my soul.

You really get the character of Mouton in these wines. The warmth and mocha aromas from the soil. The high acidity from the vintage conditions. Such a transcendant experience. I'll be lucky if I ever experience something like this again. Definitely one of my top wine memories.



Update

I understand it's been 2 weeks since I last wrote. I apologize because honestly, it's not like I've been doing anything productive over this period of time. It's probably just because I like binge-blogging. So here we go. Get ready for 5 posts a day.

By the way - I'm drinking a 1980 Kopke Colheita Port while I'm writing this, along with a chunk of nice, rich gouda cheese. I'll talk about the port later...it's just stunning.

Been doing a lot of reading, jogging, drinking. Actually, I've been drinking some pretty interesting things. And I finally, finally subscribed to Decanter magazine! The greatest wine magazine in the world. Hands down.

Reading and beginning to research about the 2007 Bordeaux vintage. Don't know if I'm prepared to buy en primeur this year. Will have to weigh my options, but something tells me that I won't be able to resist getting my hands on Ch. L'Arrosee, Ch. La Lagune, and Ch. Chasse Spleen.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Storage

This Monday, I packaged up all my wine and moved them to a friend's place for storage. I'm very grateful to this friend, for offering a safe haven for my babies. My cellar is all empty now, with the exception of 4 bottles of white wine, 4 bottles of red wine, and 2 bottles of Colheita Port.

The temperature and humidity levels in my house just were terrible. It was too hot already, and was prone to wild fluctuations. Something had to be done, or I would have had a cellar of very expensive balsamic vinegar.
I had a few boxes I saved from my Vintages purchases, but not enough. Went to LCBO to get a few more, and came back with 8 boxes, enough for 120 bottles. About right - it sounds like a lot of wine when I tell my friends I have around 100, but really, for wine drinkers, it's pint-sized.

I had to record everything in my inventory notebook, to make sure I knew exactly how many were going away. Then, into the box, where I wrote on the top side the names from left to right. Because if I were to pull a few bottles, I don't want to empty the entire case to find the right one - I need to exactly which slot it's in.

I put away all my 2005 Bordeaux. I still have a few lots that I havn't received yet, which I've been told will arrive in late summer. The ones I put away are:

2005 CH. Rauzan Gassies
2005 CH. L'Arrosee
2005 CH. Coutet
and a few other Bordeaux from other vintages.









After I had packed up about 8 cases, I turned around to see this:





Still more work to do. In total, it took me nearly 3 hours to record, store, tape, and label everything. In the end, I had 10 boxes of wine ready to move.






The move was successful, not too back-breaking. I did all the lifting. 10 times, up and down those stairs. Just can't be too careful. Overwhelmingly, my bottles are French, Bordeaux and Champagne, with a number of Sauternes. But I'm starting to accumulate some nice Niagara wines as well. The one thing I'm going to work on next - German and Niagara Rieslings.

Now, I'm all out of wine. I probably won't touch anything until at least Christmas, at which time I'll hopefully have a job and be able to double the number of bottles I have. I still have the CH. Mouton Rothschild at home, as well as the 1980 and 1981 Kopke Colheita Ports. Looking forward to opening them very soon. Finally, my wines are now able to rest and begin developing their magic.


Some outstanding wineries

As I said earlier, we visited 11 wineries in Niagara, tasting 88 wines. We got a pretty comprehensive idea of the kinds of wine the region is producing, so here is each winery broken down. Just wish I had pictures, but don't worry - they will be up soon.

Thirty Bench Wine Makers

This was a first estate of the day, and we had a tour booked. Great view, looks directly over the vineyard and we can see Lake Ontario in the distance. First was a flight of Rieslings. I've tasted the 2006 Thirty Bench Reisling in the past, so really looking forward to this. As expected, they were phenomenal. Absolutely stunning in clarity, purity and focus. Lovely piercing acidity, this is not a wine for flabby drinkers. My favourite was the 2006 Small Lot Riesling "Steel Post" Vineyard. Wonderful minerality on the nose, which follows in the palate, complemented so well by the bright citrus and acidity. All the white wines share this amazing finish, tight and crisp, but so long and elegant. Class in a glass.

Of the red wines, I have to say they were unspectacular. Good wines, mind you, but unspectacular. It was unfortunate that we weren't able to taste the Pinot Noir, which had sold out. But I enjoyed the 2005 Benchmark Red. Complex and nutty on the nose, it had nice grip and weight. What was also special was the 1995 Riesling Icewine we were served. This is by far the oldest icewine I've tasted, and it still holds up quite well. The sweetness is more controlled, more focused, and you still have the lovely stream of acidity to balance it out.

Walking around the vineyard, the soil is a lot of heavier soil, clay. All this rain can't possible be good, but then again, it's still early in the growing season. Let's hope for a dry and sunny July and August, otherwise there will be trouble.

I'm writing a lot because this was such a magnificent producer. What a wonderful surprise. Beautiful wines, honest wines. The whites definitely stand out; by far these are the finest Niagara Rieslings I've ever tasted. The only question is - how well do they age? As long as we have these kinds of producers in Ontario, then our wine industry is in good hands. Magnifique!!

Fielding Estate Winery

I've never tasted this wine before. Going through all the wines, the wines seem a bit too soft for me, but nonetheless, are delicious. The 2006 Riesling Icewine Reserve stood out. Taut acidity, nice fruit, a more measure sweetness. Good balance.

Cave Spring Cellars

Again, a new winery for me. We tried a lot, but one wine really stood out. The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Niagara Peninsula. This is the unoaked Sauvignon Blanc - they also make an oaked one. I always disliked heavily oaked wines period - you really need to strike a very careful balance, especially with white wines. This bottle was fresh, crisp, and most importantly, had such varietal characteristics. You lose so much of the delicacy when you overoak. Wonderful.

Flat Rock Cellars & Malivoire

What more can I say about these 2 producers, except that they are exceptional and my favourites. The Pinot Noirs they make are very close to my heart. Wonderful to see the evolution in their vintages, as these are fairly young producers. Friendly and knowledgable staff, unpretentious. These producers are true to the land and are really the benchmark that every other Niagara winery should set themselves against. I can't wait to taste the 2007 Pinot Noirs from each estate.

Lailey Vineyard

We had another tour booked here. We were taken to the vineyard. More of the heavy clay soil we say earlier around Beamsville in west Niagara. Introduced to some of the customary pruning techniques of a vineyard. I love walking in vineyards. That to me is the most important part of a wine. I love nothing more than to be in the soil and vines. The spritualness of being surrounded by what will eventually transform into wine is........indescribable.

Tasting barrel samples was quite another experience. We were given barrel-fermented chardonnay samples to try, which was still sur lie. Some old vine chardonnay samples were also drawn for us, which was so delightful. Minerally and stony, it just washes your palate with a light creaminess, but the finish just cleans out your palate so well. We also tried some 2007 Pinot Noir from the barrel. Still very raw, the tannins are long, hard and quite excellent. Tasting barrel samples is so different - it's the texture you should focus on. I really want to taste the 2007s in bottle, but obviously, they still have some more time to go in barrel. Wonderful strawberry and red fruits in the mouth, such a transcendant acidity and tannic structure.

Finally, we tried samples from bottle. Lailey is doing some really interesting things with red wines, especially their Syrah. So spicy, obvious black pepper on the nose! I've never smelled so much black pepper on any syrah. Wish it was a bit more integrated, than in your face, but certainly an interesting expression.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
The rest of the wineries we visited, I won't mention too much about. Nothing really stood out. Sure, everyone was friendly, with the exception of one, but I'm not going to talk about that. Learned my lesson to keep my mouth shut.
So, if you're planning a trip down to wine country, make sure you visit these wineries. The only one not in Beamsville is Lailey, which is right on the Niagara Parkway, 2 minutes outside of Niagara-0n-the-Lake Main Street.
If anyone still thinks that Niagara can't produce quality wine, you've obviously never tasted any good wine before, and you're just being ignorant. I understand the perception, especially if all you've had is that cheap, mass-market shit. But take time and try these small, artisanal producers before you pass judgement. I guarantee you will change your mind.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Niagara, in detail

Let's get to it. Overall, I was very impressed once again by the quality of all the wineries we visited, and of the Beamsville region in general. A lot of honest winemakers who believe in nurturing the land in a natural, traditional way.

By far, this was the most successful of my trips down to Niagara wine country. We visited 11 wineries, tasting 88 different wines. We came away with a better and clearer picture of the direction that this region is going, and definitely learned a lot.

It's clear that the strength of Beamsville is in its white wines. Riesling wines are the best I've tasted outside of Germany and Alsace. As a matter of fact, all of the wineries we talked to stated that their inspiration for Riesling was Alsatian wines. No one mentioned German rieslings, although the styles are similar. I suppose this owes to the region's stronger French influence.

The Rieslings were taut, crisp and focused wines, featuring high acidity, minerality and lengthy finishes. The best examples were wonderfully pure, and had great varietal characteristics.

We also tasted some great Chardonnays. The best examples also showcased crisp acidity, as well as subtle buttery/creamy textures on the palate, all complemented nicely by bright fruit flavours. The worst were overoaked, excessively buttery and flabby wines. Apparently, some winemakers still are not lovers of subtlety.

Of the red wines, I remain skeptical of the quality of the Cabernet blends. I just don't think this area is well-suited for Cabernet. Just can't get them ripe enough. With the exception of Marynissen, I don't feel anyone else makes a presentable Cabernet. Well - Thiry Bench had a fantastic Benchmark Red blend that I found quite complex and interesting.

We tasted some wonderful Pinot Noirs. Now, I've been going on and on about how great Niagara Pinot Noirs can be. Definitely, this trip just confirmed that in a perfect world, this is the red wine that everyone in Niagara should be working on.

As a whole, I have to say that while Niagara wineries are producing better and better wines, I still think they have a long way to go. The problem is expression. Can the wines express their regional typicity? Can we get to the point where I can drink a bottle of wine that is unmistakably from Niagara? These things take generations to achieve. The majority are still experimenting with technique and process. That's the hard part - deciding how to vinify, choosing when to harvest, which oak to use.......simply installing the latest technology and equipment won't do.

I'll post detailed impressions of each winery when my friend makes the pictures available to me. I can say that with the exception of two wineries, the other 9 that we visited were all special. All very unique, each specializes in the type of artisanal, low-yield wines that I love.

Again, I'll repeat that I really believe in this region. Niagara is able to produce really special northern climate white wines, as well as Burgundian varietals. It'll be interesting to keep following this area as it grows. When we can finally begin to talk about Niagara terroir, that's when I'll know that this region has grown up.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Niagara, briefly

I don't have a lot of time, so I will be brief. Our trip to Niagara yesterday was amazing, and again I came away amazed at the development of the region.

Undeniably, the whites all sparkled yesterday. There's no doubt that the region produces transcendent Rieslings for sure, as well as some good Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. As for the reds, Gamay and Pinot Noir stood out. But then again, each producer had a unique style and flair, that really can't be summed up in a general statement.

Tomorrow, I'll write up a more complete set of thoughts and observations. I'll go through our tasting methods as well as impressions of each specific winery we visited. There was a troubling aspect in one of the tastings, which I'll describe. Otherwise, it was a successful trip.

We engaged in a lot of dialoge with the wineries, and we gained a lot in terms of their philosophies and methods. I learned a lot, and this definitely was my best trip up to wine country yet. I'll also post some pictures of our visit, which I'm sure you'll enjoy.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Niagara wine tour, June 2008

On to more happier things. I just finished planning out a wine route for a trip up to Niagara again with some friends. I have a list of 10 wineries to visit, and I've booked tours at 2 of them. Should be extremely interesting and educating.

We will be visiting:

Thirty Bench Wines
Angels Gate Winery
Fielding Estate Winery
HIdden Bench Vineyards & Winery Inc.
Malivoire Wine Co, Ltd.
Tawse Winery
Featherstone Estate Winery
Cave Spring Cellars
Thirteenth Street Wine Company Corporation
Lailey Vineyards

We have tours at Thirty Bench and Lailey. I've had wines from both estates, and I've enjoyed them both. Really exceptional character to these wines.

With the exception of Lailey, all the wineries are located in Niagara West, or the Beamsville Bench appellation. I really believe that this area produces the best wine in Ontario, perhaps even in Canada. Really hoping to get out into the vineyards and taste their entire lineups. Hopefully I'll be able to get some dialogue going, and get a feel about the philosophy behind each winery. Please check back for my thoughts when we get back!

Australian garbage

I wrote a few days ago that I had one bottle of Australian red wine in my cellar, a bottle that my father had bought a few years back. It was a 2003 shiraz/voignier blend, from a well-known producer. Won't name it, because it honestly isn't worth it. The 2006 vintage sells for $27.95. From what I remember, we bought our bottle for around $30.

The particular cuvee did have a cute name - "The Laughing Magpie". To me, this just reeks of corporate marketing bullshit.

I was hoping that this wasn't going to be a generic, overriped, monstrosity of a wine. I was so wrong. It was inky, black, dense, thick - all the things that scares me. The alcohol was chokingly overwhelming. Huge fruit, that saturates everything. Alcohol that hides the tannins. Disgusting.


This wine falls apart very quickly. These is no cohesion, no integration between the components. It quickly breaks down into this hideous oakiness and bitter tannins. So much extract, it's like you're eating jam.


There's no character to these wines. And that's what pisses me off. About New World wine in general. This is not for eating with a meal. This is a cocktail wine, for those yuppie pricks who think they understand wine. THIS IS NOT WINE!!!!!!!!!!!


This garbage is vile and has no soul. If this is the direction that wine is going, then I'm going to lose my f*cking mind.

Finals embarrassment

I've been watching the NBA Finals pretty closely, and after watching Game 6, I'm kind of disgusted at the Lakers. Not just with Bryant, but everyone on that team. It was just a disgusting show of bad body language, bad attitudes, and a slap in the face to their fans.

How do the Lakers make barely 40% field goals and only have 2 boards? How does Gasol only get 7 shot attempts? And how does Bryant disappear after an amazing first quarter? You know what this is? This is a pathetic lack of effort. It became very clear after Game 1 of the series, and I'm quite surprised that the Lakers won 2 games at all.

Originally, I had the Lakers win in 6. I was so wrong, especially thinking that Bryant was going to go off for 50 at least twice in the series. The man has demonstrated that on the biggest stage, in the biggest games, he is not a leader. How does someone with so much talent cruise through such an important game like that. There were several sequences when all 5 Lakers were spectators. Go after the damn ball!

I don't buy any of that shit about Bryant leading by example and being a much better leader this year. If he really wanted to inspire his team, attack the rim, pick up a few hard fouls if you have to - just do something. Don't glare and bitch at your teammates for screwing up, after you've overhandled the ball so much that there isn't much of a play to run anymore.

Gasol was equally as disappointing. I've never seen a bigger pansy. He's the kind of guy with great offensive talent, but no leadership and no sense of responsibility. It's his game - when he turns the ball over, he makes sure to point at a teammate, to make it clear that it wasn't his fault. He pointed at Odom for passing the ball into his thigh. He blamed Bryant for not lobbing the ball high enough. Shut up, get back on defense, and make up for it the next possession.

The league really is going to hell. You have marquee franchises full of whiny, overpaid, soft ballhogs, who show up to collect a paycheque. There really is no more concept of team, for a game that is more team-oriented than any other sport. Let's call it as it is. Bryant will never win a championship without a big brother to kick him in the ass and be a true leader to the team.

Oh, and I got this picture of the championship parade in Boston off of a page called Barstool Sports. Totally made my day.


Sunday, June 15, 2008

Champagne Gardet

I enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Champagne with some friends over the weekend. It was a small producer, non vintage brut. I was happy because I was able to open the bottle without wasting a single drop.


Champagne Gardet Cuvee Foudres Selected Reserve, $44.95. The producer ages it for 2 years in barrel, and then another 3 years on the lees, for its secondary fermentation. This longer aging gives it more character, which is quite noticeable. This is a blend of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier.

I love drinking sparkling wines in regular tulip-shape wine glasses. I find it expresses and opens up the wine much better than a flute. A flute is nice to look at but..........it's what happens in the nose and mouth that counts. This wine was so, so yeasty on the nose. Lots of citrus, yeast, toasted breads on the nose. Nice acidity on the finish, maybe we should revisit this wine with some more bottle age. But very delicious, extremely unique and very, very rich.

I really want to start exploring these smaller Champagne producers. I think they produce wine that is much better than the luxury brands. I just don't see how Veuve Clicquot can justify charging $80 for a bottle. I just can't see it.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Rias Baixas

I know the purpose of this space isn't to give tasting notes, or any of that nonsense. But lately I've just been having some interesting wines, wines that are very new experiences to me. One of them was a Spanish white wine, from Rias Baixas.


2006 Agro de Bazan "Contrapunto", DO Rias Baixas Albarino. This wine is made from 100% Albarino. Beautiful golden colour. And the nose! What a glorious nose!! Full of honey, spice, tropical fruits, sweetness. It has an uncanny resemblance to Vidal icewine. In the mouth, it is gloriously silky with a racy acidity, and a long, spicy finish. Delicious, just absolutely delicious.

This was my first bottle of Spanish white wine, and I am in love with the region already. It just confirms all I know about Spanish red wines - that this area produces rich, interesting, complex wines. I can't wait for my next bottle!

Opening Champagne

How do you open a bottle of Champagne, or for that matter, any sparkling wine, without wasting any of it? I cringe every time I see someone shooting the cork open, wasting half the bottle in the process. But I know it's possible to do it in a more civilized manner.

I'm really starting to fall in love with Champagne. I love the complexity of the wine, how great it is with food, and just the history and traditions behind it. It's such a shame that the vast majority of people don't understand it, and therefore waste it.

I succeeded last night. I guess the trick is to have the bottle standing upright on a table. Turn the cork slowly. Make sure you apply pressure downward. I havn't figured out how to slowly ease the cork out yet, because the pressure of the bottle is just too powerful. I let it pop out loudly but if you avoid obstructing the neck of the bottle, the gas escapes. I think that's the trick to not letting the wine bubble out of the bottle.

The day before, I opened a bottle of sparkling wine from Chile. When I removed the cork, I held it against the opening of the bottle too long. The gas couldn't escape, and it sprayed the wine everywhere. I was almost ready to start licking it off the ground. I hate wasting wine.

Convocation

I'm now a graduate of the University of Waterloo.

It was a long, rough 4 years. I learned some things, became more independant. Most of my happiest memories of university were the times I spent with friends.

Our convocation ceremony was great. At first, I though it was just going to be like all the other graduations I've been through. But there's so many traditions and ceremonial aspects to it. It turned out to be quite special - I even got a bit emotional hearing our Dean read out the names. Kneeling before the Vice-Chancellor, all I could think was...my goodness, I did it. All the late nights, all the stress, all the uncertainty. It was all worth it.

I guess I have to thank...my parents, all my roommates, my buddies. And myself. Thanks so much to my buddies who came to take pictures and celebrate with me. I can now honestly say I have a degree in Economics!

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Need help drinking

I organized my closet yesterday. I had a couple dozen bottles still in cardboard boxes that I had put away at a friend's place. Brought them all back, and it was like opening a birthday present - I had totally forgotten what a lot of the bottles were.

One bottle that stood out was a 1999 Domaine Huet Brut, AC Vouvray. A sparkling wine from the Loire Valley, from Chenin Blanc grapes. Look forward to opening that sometime soon, perhaps to celebrate my graduation from Waterloo. Purportedly, this wine can compete with Champagne in the best vintages. For some reason, it amazes me whenever I find a vintage dated sparkling wine outside of Champagne.

A few more bottles that stood out were a couple of white Burgundies, some interesting St. Joseph's, as well as a bottle of Australian shiraz/voignier, which no doubt my father bought. I am NOT taking responsibility for that bottle.

In the meantime...I bought a few bottles of Champagne from LCBO's last release. A couple of more obscure Champagne houses I suppose, but all from Grand Cru villages. I always look out for blanc de noirs Champagnes. I just love the character of pinot noir.

I'll see, but I'm interested in exploring German rieslings more. The reason? I've had some experience with them in the past, but lately I bought a few bottles from an LCBO release, bought as futures. Balthasar Ress released a vertical of Rheingau rieslings from 1982-1999, so it really was a great chance to taste mature white wines. I bought bottles of:

1982 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau
1983 Winkler Jesuitengarten Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau
1986 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau

Havn't received word yet, but extremely excited and anxious to receive these bottles. That's why I want to drink as many Rheingau rieslings in the meantime as I can, so I can get a better sense of what this region is about. Now...if only I can win the lottery, that would solve all my problems. All of them.

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

A pair of stunning Niagara pinot noirs

I'm happy to report that I've finally set up my tv I brought back from Waterloo in my basement. So finally I have a place to chill and watch tv in peace. Anyways, it also gave me an opportunity to quietly enjoy and contemplate a pair of Niagara wines that I found truly incredible. Just incredible. I had a bottle of each on consecutive nights, and while both were unique, they showed a surprisingly strong sense of place and regional typicity. And by the way, I apologize for these truly atrocious pictures. The blame belongs to my cell phone camera.




The first bottle I drank was a 2004 Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Pinot Noir. This is a wine produced from a single vineyard, called Montague. And although I know a lot of so-called single vineyard wines are barely mediocre, I've always loved this wine. Definitely the best in Inniskillin's portfolio, and only available at the winery. I know people who love Inniskillin's icewines will disagree with that statement, but I stand behind it. I absolutely feel that this pinot noir shows much more regional characteristics than their icewines ever will.


The wine was a beautiful light ruby. I don't understand the misconception that a lighter red wine is somehow of a lesser quality than something more deeply coloured. This is an intense wine, and when I drink Niagara pinot noir, this is what I'm looking for. Incredible strawberry and this nutty, smoky quality. Unmistakable Niagara pinot noir. Just unmistakable - if you appreciate pinot noir from the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench appellations, you will adore this wine. Fine tannins, underlined by a racy acidity, which finishes so smooth. The question of ripeness, however remains. I think ripeness might be more of an issue, in terms of tannins. A bit bitter on the finish. Just an incredible wine, and something that I think can age for a few more years. I really think it'll develop more earthy flavours, as the acidity makes it so lively. I have one more bottle left, the key is patience. What a delicious wine!


The second bottle was a 2005 Mommessin "Les Caves", AC Moulin-a-Vent. This is from the Beaujolais AOC of France. People think Beaujolais, and they think about cheap wines. Untrue - well, at least not completely true. The marketing job on Beaujolais nouveau has been magnificent, but the cru Beaujolais are fantastic wines. They're more artisanal wines, with more character and depth. Nouveau wine is alcoholic grape juice. Cru Beaujolais is wine.


Originally, I wanted to open a 2005 Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir. I was in the mood for another pinot noir from the Niagara Peninsula. But then, I wanted a Moulin-a-Vent. It's made from the gamay grape, and is often mistaken for pinot noirs. And what a lovely complement to the Inniskillin pinot noir! Fresh, crushy fruit, all underlined with an earthiness that I love so much. This sense of soil and herbs, and just a beautiful subtlety to the wine. A much more "complete" wine than the Inniskillin. But the influence is unmistakable. Unmistakable. If you drink these blind, you would swear they were the same producer, using the same grape. To me, I thought the Inniskillin was absolutely delicious. But the Mommessin is more interesting, with more character and greater subltlety in structure.


I fell in love with the Inniskillin all over again. So intense, rich, fresh...this is the kind of wine that Niagara producers need to start focussing on. Pinot noirs that showcase the land, the region. I need to drink the Lailey again to make sure, but for now this is my favourite wine from the Niagara Peninsula. What I find this region is lacking however, is a more stiffer austerity, from the acidity. Compared with wines from the Beamsville Bench and Twenty Mile Bench, this wine feels a bit flabby. I suppose it's a result of manipulating to be softer - wines with harder acidity are difficult to appreciate for the casual consumer. In my opinion, malolactic fermentation is too frequently used as a crutch, to correct for under-ripeness. But then again, what do I know.


If you havn't tried these wines, please find a bottle of both. They're not that expensive - $25 and $20. If you still think Ontario red wines aren't worth it, you will definitely be surprised by the quality here.

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Distillery District

Last week, my buddy took me down to Toronto's Distillery District. It was my first time - yes, I realize how little I know of my city. It was scorching hot, the sun was blazing, but the day was perfect.

By the time we got down, I was starving. Which was exactly what I wanted to do down there - eat and drink. We found a place called the Oyster House and Grill. It was nice, not very busy, and visiting Nice taught me the joys of eating outdoors.

I ordered a 2006 Thirty Bench Riesling. This was my first bottle of wine from this producer, and once again, I was amazed at the quality of some of the wineries from the Beamsville Bench appellation. No doubt what made the wine even better was the glasses that it was served in. The restaurant had wonderful short stem, big bowl Riedel glasses. The wine had a clean, tight nose, wonderful fruit, and most of all, that characteristic Beamsville Bench acidity. Such raciness, it completely cuts your palate in a straight line, absolutely none of that bloated nonsense. Delightful. Definitely will have to visit this winery the next time I'm up in the area.

For lunch, I had their garden salad and a pan-seared tilapia. Beautifully cooked, fresh, and absolutely delicious.

Back home, for dinner that day, I opened a bottle of 2005 Creekside Sauvignon Blanc. It was the bottle that I bought in Niagara in February. $13. Different, and obviously, this winery takes a different approach in their wines. A lot softer, but still contains some varietal characteristics. A bit too mellowed out, no doubt to sculpt the wine for a wider range of consumers.

So there you have it. The Distillery District was a lot of fun. Had some fantastic wine, and that beer we had later was great as well. They make this organic beer that is delicious. Nutty and crisp. I should drink more ales, really want to tune my palate towards that kind of flavour profile. The Boddington's Ale I remember having was eye-opening.

Mulberry wine




Just to make sure you know what I'm talking about, I took some pictures of that homemade mulberry wine I was talking about a few posts ago. It was perfect - take some pictures and drink some of it too.


I decanted this time. With air, it takes on this menthol, ripe berries aroma. The bitter chocolate and candied cherries remains, but it takes on a freshness, and an almost cooling sensation in the mouth. Just delightful.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Hand me a drink

Have you ever been in a situation where you're almost driven to drink? Where something or someone drives you so crazy that (in my case) you just want to uncork a few bottles and chug away? Well, I'm in that situation now.




Keep me away from the Bordeaux I just received.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Homemade surprises

Before I start forgetting the exact tasting details, I need to talk about an eau-de-vie that my uncle poured for me in Shanghai. It was a homemade, distilled liquor, that our relatives from Ningbo made. Completely brewed from sweet rice, it was clear and clean.

The nose was incredible. So fragrant, so sweet. Completely blew me away - the purity of it was amazing. On the palate, it was so clean and smooth. Really, there wasn't a hard edge at all. Nice spiciness on the finish, although not remarkably long. But my goodness, the smoothness was just incredible. Consistency like thick cream in the mouth, but a very cleansing and pleasingly light finish.

Just a few days ago, remembered that there were jars of wine in our fridge. Jars of homemade mulberry wine, also produced by the same relatives. We brought them over a few years ago, when going through customs was still only slightly nervewracking. These relatives picked very ripe mulberrys from their own vineyards, and placed them in a fiery 60% alcohol Chinese liquor. The trick with these is that over time, the alcohol is absorbed into the fruit, and the alcohol in the liquid isn't all that strong. People use this drink for medicinal purposes, but it is so delicious.

Light pink in colour, but with a syrupy consistency. On the nose, it has this beautiful floral aroma, with lots of sweet berries and just a bit of spiciness from the liquor. On the palate, it is overwhelmingly like bitter dark chocolate and candied fruits. Incredible. Not a very complex wine, but has a long long finish, incredibly silky in the mouth. Eating the fruit is quite a different experience. The mulberries retain their natural sweetness and acidity, but the alcohol adds such a strong kick to it. If you're not careful, 5 of them will knock you out.

Unfortunately, with the problem of finding good fruit, we probably won't ever be able to find this kind of wine. The quality is stunning. I suppose there's no point in just leaving it in the back of the fridge. Might as well enjoy it while it's still alive and fresh. What an incredible experience, for both these wines. The mulberry wine is to some degree, a more simple process, but the eau-de-vie was such a wonderful surprise. Such clarity!

Recap - Shanghai

Shanghai for me changed a lot this time. Perhaps because for the first time, I got a really good sense of what it's like to live there.

The food was amazing, as always. A few vegetables were in season, so we had a lot of greens that you can't find anywhere else. A trend is spicy dishes, which was an interesting take on local ingredients. Dinner at my uncle's place was memorable, as it always is. A mark of a true chef is when you can take the same ingredient, prepare it two seperate ways, and yet express the inherent qualities in each.

I drank a lot of Chinese red wine. Allegedly, they're 100% grown and produced in China. And they were awful. Obviously manipulated to remove all traces of tannins and structure. Hideous use of oak chips and staves in place of barrels. Just an artificial tasting product, something which deserves to be poured down the drain. But in a country where tolerance for alcohol commands a higher level of respect than an appreciation for it, who gives a shit?

I am shocked by some of the things that I saw. I love Shanghai dearly - it's my hometown, I'm 100% authentic Shanghainese. The majority of my extended family is there. But I don't think I could ever live or work there.

Recap - Tokyo

Returned from my trip on the 20th. Just havn't felt like posting. Spending time in Tokyo and Shanghai, especially, was really emotionally draining. The family is going through a tough time.

The highlight of my trip was the food. In Tokyo, we had a lot of kobe beef, sashimi and sushi. As well as wine. The selection in some wine shops is impressive. Especially the store in Ginza I visited. A lot of top first and second growth Bordeaux.

The beef was exquisite. Marbled fat, tender, flavourful...you'd think that something so fatty would taste greasy but it wasn't. The fat melts in your mouth, giving you flavour but also at the same time being light and delicate. The meat was so tender, I literally cut it with a butter knife. Seared both sides for 2 minutes each, just add pepper. The Japanese eat it with soy sauce and wasabi, which is how I did it. Delicious.

The fish here, was of course amazing. Incredibly fresh, the tuna especially was stunning. Rich and tender. The most memorable fish we had was also the scariest. Nagasaki Fuku, or puffer fish. The blood and organs were incredibly poisonous, so the restaurant needed a license to prepare it. We had the fish several different ways - as sashimi, as hotpot, and in a porridge. Interesting how the fish retains its character in all the methods.

My cousin Kazu, is a big wine drinker. When I'm around. We had a lot of Spanish wines, Southwest France...the best for me was an Italian, something that I've never had before either. It was a Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio. I read somewhere a long time ago about what the name means. Loosely translated, it means "The Tears of Christ". Look up the story behind it. It was a wonderful wine - earthy, dusty, hot, spicy - the kind of wine that was so true to where it was from.

I did buy a bottle of Japanese red wine back with me. Yes, they do make red wine. Don't know how it's going to be, but it's made out of a blend of indigenous grapes. Should be interesting.

Unfortunately, Mount Fuji remains elusive to me. We went to Hakone the day after I returned from Shanghai, and it was so foggy we were literally driving in a cloud. Drove up to the highest road, about 2000 or so metres, and could see nothing. It was amazing though - only 5 degrees, snow and ice everywhere. I picked up some volcanic rock. Red and porous, really interesting.

I tried to pick up my Japanese again. It's tough - the subtleties of the language make even saying thank you seem ambiguous. It all depends on context.

I came away very impressed with the people, and the culture. But to me, there's too much emphasis on outside appearance. Everyone is well-mannered, perfectly groomed, well dressed. It's too tiring to be Japanese.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

5.12 Sichuan Earthquake

I was in Shanghai at the time of the earthquake. I felt it - it happened at 2:28 pm, and Shanghai experienced it around 3. I was reading, at my uncle's 21st floor apartment, when I suddenly felt incredibly dizzy. The room felt like it was literally spinning in circles. I thought it was the really heavy lunch we just had, so I ignored it. It only lasted for maybe 5-10 minutes. Until we got a call that a massive earthquake had just occurred on the other side of the country.

The tv stations started reporting on the earthquake around the clock. The images were horrific, heart-breaking, and emotional. The death toll was catastrophic. And what made it worse was the news that entire schools had collapsed, burying hundreds and thousands of children inside.

So please, do what you can to help. Whether that's donating money, clothing, food...whatever you can. The government's response has been swift and is worth applauding - I know because I witnessed first hand. The Premier has been decisive, inspiring, strong - I was very impressed.

Please help.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Back in Yokohama city

I arrived back in Tokyo this afternoon. I'm heartbroken to leave my grandparents and Shanghai. But what can you do, except live your life. Feels great to be back in Japan, welcomed with a wonderful sukiyaki dinner and a bottle of 2003 Marques de Riscal DOC Rioja Reserva.

Going to Hakone tomorrow, hope the weather turns out to be ok.

Lots of things to catch up on, when I get back home. Of course, I'll need to talk about all the wonderful food and not so wonderful wine I had in Shanghai. And everything else.

Monday, May 5, 2008

In Shanghai

We arrived in Shanghai yesterday morning, right before noon. Went to the hospital soon after. It's impossible for me to put into words how I'm feeling. It's painful to see someone you love and respect lying there like that. I don't want to talk about it.

Went to a restaurant specializing in Hunan cuisine. Spicy foods, but quite different from Sichuan cuisine. No peppercorn and less spices. Absolutely delicious. We had stone pot soups, clear broths cooked with herbal medicines. Then a sauteed frog meat dish, filled with chili peppers and chili oil. Followed by greens, cooked in oil and seafood soy sauce. We finished with a hot cast iron plate of duck tongue. The restaurant was packed, which was a good thing. I have a hard time trusting an empty restaurant's food. Each dish was perfectly seasoned, spicy but not numbing, each allowing the primary ingredient to shine.

The mall where the restaurant was had a wine shop. I went in, and was pleasantly surprised. Compared to when I came last, Christmas 2006, the selection of wines has improved dramatically. It featured many of the more obscure Bordeaux appellations, such as Moulis and Lussac St-Emilion. Would have loved to try, but the prices are still very forbidding.

I'm having a difficult time in Shanghai. It's been shocking, what I've seen here. You think you know a place well enough, but...

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Back in Japan

Just spent my first day in Japan. Noticed some very interesting things right away. We arrived in the afternoon. The flight was ok, not too painful. For me that is. My aunt's new place is awesome, great location.

We spent today shopping. I needed to get a suit, and luckily, there was a huge sale going on at the store close by. I'm having a suit made for me - it's not as expensive as it sounds. And it's good quality as well, 100% wool, two buttons, side vents, pants that hugs everything right. I also bought an Aquascutum suit jacket, single button with peak lapels. And a pair of checked light grey cotton pants. Beautiful.

What comes across most is that it is a country of unfailing courtesy and formality. Almost excruciatingly polite everywhere you go. The people here have an attention to detail that is unsurpassed. After a day of polite smiling and bowing, things begin to seem fake to you. I mean, it just isn't natural to act this way. Let me give you an example: I was in UNIQLO, buying maroon dress socks. The girl at the cash was bowing and smiling and saying all these things as I was giving her money. I asked my cousin what she was saying, and he told me that she was just saying, 'Please give me a moment to give you change'.

Speaking of my cousin, Kazuhide is definitely by far the coolest person I know. Without a doubt, Kazu is just cool. He's completely mastered the 'I don't give a shit about anything' look. If there ever is an unpretentious and effortless sense of style, the kid has it. There's cool people that have to work really hard at it, the kinds that want to make sure other people notice it as well. Nothing Kazuhide does is ever forced. He just has that way about him - the slouching, the quiet demeanor, the way he carries himself. And he's only going to reach 19 at the end of next month! I was an absolute mess at 19. Wow, what a cool kid.

We're in the heart of Yokohama, right next to Tokyo Bay, so there's a lot to see. Excited to begin exploring the food here. I went with Kazuhide to the local grocery store today. You can learn so much about a culture just by buying groceries, trust me. I saw so many interesting things inside, especially the seafood. Tonight, we had sushi - not those cheap hand rolls that North Americans believe is sushi. No, the authentic kind. It was fantastic - fresh and beautifully structured firmness and weight to it. And I visited the local wine shops already. Of course I did - no one should be surprised. The selection at the more expensive stores is impressive. They sell a 2001 CH. Cote de Montpezat, AC Cotes de Castillon, as well as a 2000 Bodegas Lan Gran Reserva, both of which I have in my cellar, and both of which I thought was quite obscure. The markup is even higher, compared to LCBO, which was a shock. I bought a bottle of Suntory red wine, a Japanese bottle. Havn't tried it yet, but eager to do so. I also bought a bottle of Chianti Classico, which we tried tonight. Not good. That's all I want to say. Candied fruit, weak structure, at least it was cheap.

Very excited to be able to try some new Japanese cuisine. New, in the sense that I've never tried before. I'm beginning to see this country in a new light, and hopefully I'll be able to communicate that through here in the next few posts.

Tokyo and Shanghai

After months and months of planning and discussing, I'm going to Japan again after exams are over. It'll be my first trip back in nearly 8 years, so I`m looking forward to it very much. More importantly, it means that I'll be able to spend some time with my cousin and aunt. The second leg of this trip takes me back home to Shanghai. I can't believe that it`s been 18 months since my last visit, so also looking forward to that.

I remember quite a few things from my last trip to Tokyo. Admittedly, I was far too young to appreciate the culture. This time, I just want to relax and enjoy spending some time with my family. Also, I definitely want to experience Japanese cuisine. Interestly enough, I understand that there's quite a vibrant French cuisine scene in Tokyo, so we'll absolutely be visiting a French restaurant. And finally, the Japanese have quite an interesting relationship with French wine. I'm very excited to see for myself. After all, I did buy futures from a Bordeaux Chateau owned by Suntory, Chateau Lagrange.

We'll also be spending some time in Shanghai. But that trip is completely family-oriented, as there are several things to take care of there. Just being in my hometown will be enough.

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Some thanks.

The term is over, and what an amazing 4 months! Firstly, I need to thank my roommates, Bebe and Sis. You guys made living in Waterloo fun and were the best roommates I could have asked for. And you tolerated all my drinking.

My buddy Pris is leaving for Europe, and won't be back for a year. So best of luck Pris, and take care of yourself. Have lots of fun, and we'll try our best to organize a trip up to visit!

My sister is going to Europe as well, but not as long. Take in the culture, try to stay away from the shopping! Lol, and rehearse your story when you go through customs!!

Christie, have a lot of fun in Cuba. You need to get out of Canada and just...be away from everything.

So, everyone is going somewhere. Even you Rocky. Everyone have fun and take care. We're not going to be together for a while, but I'm sure there'll be tons of great stories to tell once we're all back.

Goodbye.

Today was a busy day. But a good and productive day. For some reason, I woke up quite early today, and got up at 9am, on less than 7 hours sleep. Funny how you never seem to need sleep when you know you have a big day ahead of you.

First stop: Capelli at Bayview Village, haircut appointment with Super Mario. Met a girl named Georgia, who works for L'Oreal. She suggested I try this product in my har, not bad, but I think I'll stick with my paste. Nice girl though.

Second stop: Bayview Village LCBO. Time to pick up my Vintages orders! 12 bottles of wine: 3 bottles of 2005 CH. L'Arrossee, 3 bottles of 2005 CH. Rauzan Gassies, 2 bottles of 2004 CH. La Lagune, 2 bottles of 2000 Bodegas Lan Gran Reserva, a 1980 Kopke Colheita Port, and finally, a 1981 Kopke Colheita Port. I was so so happy. My goodness, I was so happy today.

Third stop: Lunch with the roommates, Pris and Rocky. Last time we'll all be able to get together for a while.

So, that was my day. Had to wash my Civic today, Waterloo made it absolutely filthy. And of course, I needed to start packing. I'm leaving tomorrow, won't be back until late May. So, unfortunately, I may not be able to post for a while. We'll see.

Home for...good?

Just settled back home. Tonight's exam was brutal. Really brutal. I feel shell-shocked, like, what the fuck just happened?



Feel very tired, but still wrote up the tags for the bottles that I brought home from Waterloo. Two bottles of 2005 CH. La Fleur Jonquet, Champagne J. Lassalle, CH. La Bastide Blanche, CH. Faizeau, and finally, a CH. Du Trignon. Desperately running out of space, I guess the rest will have to go in the basement closet.

Big day tomorrow, lots to do. Finally, I'm home.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Like getting your wisdom teeth pulled

This is getting so painful. My last exam is tonight, 7:30-10. My professor is an asshole. Who the hell picks the last possible day to have the exam, and at the last possible time slot? I wouldn't mind if something bad happened to him, because he's trying his hardest to make life as difficult as possible for us. It's like he sits in his dinky office all day, just thinking of ways to screw us over.

Bebe left just before noon, so I'm alone in the suite. Everything's so dusty, but at least I've packed neatly, so it should be quick and easy tonight to load the car up. Just want to go home and sleep in my own bed, for the first time in a month. You know what? I've been in Waterloo since late March, so this is the longest time that I've ever stayed in this town. Three consecutive weekends. And I'm reminded why I don't mind leaving. My window is open, and I'm receiving a noseful of fresh Canadian geese droppings. Kind of like the Rioja and Bandol that I drank a few months back. Barnyard.

I don't want to study this stuff. The textbook is garbage. I've been awake since 5:15 am, and up since 8. Let's get this over with. I need at least a 40% to be in good shape for this course. I just want to pass. May have trouble doing that.

I don't want to study!!!!!!!!!!

Sunday, April 20, 2008

What wine am I?

I feel so mentally drained. Didn't sleep last night, as I was studying for my Health Economics exam this morning. After all that - going into the exam, there wasn't a single topic that I was really confortable with. And that feeling sucks. Like, all you want to do in an exam is to survive - not to excel, not to ace it, but just to survive.

Thanks very much to my dear friend Christie, who dropped by this weekend to give me an early birthday gift. And what else, but a bottle of Gigondas? I loved the birthday card, and your rationale behind choosing this bottle.

Which got me to thinking: If I were a wine, what kind of wine would I be? What flavour profile would I have? What kind of structure? I have yet to come across the exact bottle, but I think I have a pretty clear idea.

Firstly, the wine would have to be ripe. Nice, fresh fruit. It must have a fragrant, complex bouquet, one that speaks directly about where it's from. A bouquet that you can get lost in, and one you don't mind sniffing all day. The wine must have solid acidity, to the point of austerity. It must be well-structured and solid. Something that isn't heavy, but delicate and steely, and a wine that would show infinitely better with a good meal. And above all - the wine must be honest. It must be honest about where it comes from, and speak truthfully about itself. No excessive human manipulation, it is what it is.

So...I'm an acidic, fragrant, well structured, honest wine. I'll let you know if I ever come across.......myself.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Adding to the collection

Today was a good day. Good, but I had one of those introspective moments that makes you stop and think. My Humanities final exam was today, with my roommate. My sis. It was also her last exam in Waterloo. I still can't get over the fact that we're done living with each other. It's weird - it'll take an adjustment, not seeing someone that you've spent every day with for the past year. Having pulled an all-nighter, I think I did well during the final. Professor suprised me with the fact that there was going to be 200 questions. I went in under the impression that there was only 100.

We all went out for dinner tonight, my roommates and Alan. There's not that many dependable places in Waterloo to eat besides Ben Thanh, and even this place isn't all that great. Our last dinner together in Waterloo.

Some great news today. Arranged with the LCBO stores at First Canadian Place and Bayview Village to transfer a few bottles of the 2004 Chateau La Lagune. Very, very excited to receive this wine, it's a Troisieme Grand Cru Classe of the Haut Medoc. It's the first property entering the Medoc, and personally, it's one of my favourites. I've drank the 1986, and the elegance and purity of the wine were stunning. Absolutely stunning.

Some other wines coming my way are of course, my 2005 Chateau L'Arrosee and the 2005 Rauzan-Gassies. Also, my 1980 and 1981 Kopke Colheita Port. And finally, the icing on the cake, the centerpiece, the bottle I've been waiting for, for 6 months: my 1986 Glenfarclas Family Casks Scotch.

Unfortunately, I'll only have one day to pick up my wines. The 24th. Hopefully, everything will have arrived.

And by the way, I opened a bottle of Muscat de Rivesaltes. First time I've had wine from this region. It's a sweet, fortified wine made from the muscat grape. Velvety in all its fruit-bomb glory, and just not for me. Lacks...something.

No sleep for the hard-working

It's now 6am. I've been up all night, studying for my Humanities exam later today at noon. Professor was nice enough to let me do the exam earlier, instead of on the 23rd. This is probably my last all-nighter I'll pull in a while. Feeling ok now, just a little bit hungry. I'm used to still being awake when the birds start chirping in the morning. It's gotten to the point where I can identify what kind of bird it is just by the sound of its chirp. I'm sure I'll start feeling wasted right after the exam.

The course is called Humanities, but why change the name? It used to be Western Civilizations. I really enjoyed this course. Really gives you a broad understanding of Western culture, and the forces that shaped it. Really interesting stuff. Unfortunately, there was no mention of wine.

Now, there HAS to be someone that agrees with me when I say that without wine, there is no civilization. There just can't be. You learn about politics, economics, science, and so much more just by studying wine. Without wine, we're nothing more than savages.

Anyways, still have some re-reading to do and then I'll go over the quizzes again. I havn't had a drop of wine since the 5th, and I think I can't take anymore. I'm heading to LCBO after my exam today, depending on how tired I feel. Maybe I'll get a half bottle.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Middle of exams

I just completed my second final exam today, for my monetary economics class. It was nerve-wracking. Not sure if I wrote enough for each question. It was a huge exam too - 23 pages. Really, really nervous about it. I havn't had any wine since April 5. Seriously. I really could use a glass now, starting to get antsy.

Just discovered that LCBO has a few bottles of the 2004 CH. La Lagune. It's an estate that I've been following for quite some time. I'm trying to build up a collection, I've had the '86, and it was magnificent. I have a few lots of the 2005 and 2006 locked up already, but I'm looking for a few earlier vintages.

Oh, and I received an interesting response to my paper I posted earlier. Appreciate the correction. I now know that LCBO is not the world's largest importer of liquor. Whoever googled that up and posted the right answer, thanks so much. I'd respect you so much more if you didn't name yourself 'Anonymous'. At least be more creative and make up a nickname if you have to, so I know its not some loser who's fact checking other's people's writing. If you're not even confident enough to do that on the internet, how confident can you be in real life? Just wondering, don't take it personally.

Anyways, 3 more exams to go. Key is...just to survive.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Read a Book!

I've had several people ask me how to start learning about wine. I don't know if I'm the best person to ask...you realize that I've only been earnest about this for about 4 years right? Mr. Choi, this isn't about you, I enjoy talking wine with you. It's about other people, who shall remain nameless.

At the moment, I'm pleased at my progress, but clearly, I will be learning new things about wine until I die. There is truly, endless knowledge and endless experiences in wine. I don't mind talking about specific bottles of wine. It's always good to see what other people are drinking.

Read a book. People want easy and fast solutions to everything. Why do you think critics are so successful these days? People just want other people to tell them what the best wines are, and want to know whether they're drinking wines with high scores or not. They want fashionable wines, and wines that make them look like they know what they're doing. There's a fantastic lack of creativity and a lack of desire to really learn things the right way. So read a fucking book.

Also there's this incredibly misguided notion that wine connoisseurship is all about identifying the different flavour elements of wine. That if you can tell that a wine tastes of strawberries and violets and hints of leather and tobacco, then wow, you're a wine expert! That's a shitload of nonsense. The Americans are to blame for this phenomenon.

In part, Robert Parker is the one most responsible. This is the easy way to taste wine. To describe wine in this manner makes sense to the general public. Everyone is more or less familiar with these tastes, and using these descriptions, people feel like they really are fully experiencing a wine. But that is a huge mistake. What about these descriptions tells you where a wine is from? The quality of the harvest and vintage? The techniques used to make the wine? Nothing. Absolutely nothing.

Of course, how can I forget Gary V? He makes it popular to use quite ridiculous terms to describe taste. But I suppose that's the knowledge level of the majority of his fans. It works for him, and his wine business is making lots of money, so I can't argue against that. But is it really increasing the average American's wine knowledge? I mean, one of his fans started his own blog, with his own "tasting notes" - I won't name him, I promise. And I put "tasting notes" in quotes, because I've read some of his stuff and to put it gently, it sets the American wine industry back 30 years. All the work that Robert Mondavi has done to revolutionize American wine? GONE, with the increase in people like this; the kinds that learn about wine from hyperactive online video hosts, who encourage and bloat their tasting abilities far beyond reality.

Taste is such a subjective thing. You don't need me to tell you that. So to describe all these wines in such simple terms is doing an incredible injustice to wine. Well, I shouldn't be surprised that Americans have popularized this. No matter how defensive they get, these people have simple, unrefined tastes. Come on, this is the country that invented fast food. No need to say more.

So, you want to learn about wine? Try as many different wines as you can. Try everything. Once you have a more experienced palate, and have some idea of what you're doing, it's a good idea to focus on one region, to really gain a stronger understanding of what you're putting in your mouth.

This isn't a rant. This is the truth. I don't glorify, or advertise that I enjoy wine. Wine is very personal - why does everyone need to know how much knowledge or expertise you have? So learn on your own, and then when you can talk intelligently about it, let's have a glass together. And if you ever describe a wine as having flavours reminiscent of Fruit Loops cereal and Juicy Fruit, I'll slap you right in the face. Rocky, we should however, have more wine together.

LCBO and Organizational Change

Umm...don't know if anyone's interested. But for my MSci 311, I wrote a piece on LCBO and how they've instituted organizational changes. Thanks Professor RD for the 80. Maybe a little undeserved, but see for yourself:

Tastes have changed, but what about the LCBO?

March 24, 2008
D.Fang


The Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) has come a long way from its founding mission to enforce strict control on the sale and consumption of liquor, as well as provide social responsibility in protecting the public from the potential ravages of alcoholism. However, that mission statement dates from over 80 years ago. The LCBO’s mandate and organizational structure has revised over the years, to adapt to and take advantage of changes in the market. It has demonstrated that a government owned corporation can succeed and indeed, thrive in today’s market. The LCBO is a model for organizational change, and has demonstrated that with the right management in place, sweeping changes can be implemented, while producing immediate benefits. The government is not the only beneficiary of the LCBO’s success. The organization has been instrumental in bringing a wide variety of products to consumers, allowing access to products that are near impossible to locate otherwise, due to the LCBO’s purchasing power. While the future looks bright for LCBO, it did not arrive at its current state without some hardships. Not only must we look at what caused these changes to occur, but also to what changes the LCBO needs to make in the future.

Let us first examine the internal make-up of the LCBO. It is the single largest buyer and retailer of liquor in the world, operating 602 stores across Ontario and holding 50.5% of the province’s alcoholic beverage market share. LCBO stores offer 19,226 products and 5,935 products offered through its Vintages program.[1] It employs about 6,500 full and part-time employees. The LCBO is run by a 9-person board. Members are appointed by the Lieutenant-Governor, through Orders-in-Council, on the recommendation of the Premier and the Minister of Public Infrastructure Renewal, for terms of up to 5 years. The LCBO has 6 major divisions: Human Resources, Finance, Information Technology (IT), Retail, Merchandising and Distribution. Divisions are responsible for coordination amongst themselves, whenever an issue affects more than one division. However, there are no systematic policies in place to ensure daily coordination between the various divisions. Also, the LCBO does not have any benchmarks for measuring communication and information flows across organizational departments. Requests for interviews with LCBO regional store managers for further information were refused, and the requests were instead directed to the corporate website.

As the LCBO moves away from simply being a distributor of liquor to a full-fledged retailer, the most important thing to focus on is the customer. More precisely, what type of alcoholic beverage is most attractive in the market, and how can the LCBO capitalize on it? The answer is quite simple. In one word, wine.

It does not take a wine connoisseur to discover the increasing popularity of this drink. New wine producing regions are sprouting all over the world, and consumers are becoming more and more sophisticated in their knowledge and appreciation of wines. An inspection of the LCBO’s annual reports shows that in 2002-2003, wine sales totalled $819 million, a 6.4% increase from the previous fiscal year.[2] In 2005-2006, wine sales were $988 million, an increase of 3.1% from the previous year.[3] In 2005, Canadians consumed 396 million bottles of wine, which shows an increase in consumption of 23.23% from 2001-2005.[4] As consumers continue to demand more wine from all parts of the globe, the LCBO must adjust its distribution system, and streamline its own internal structure to maintain efficiency and effectiveness.

As explained in Gareth R. Jones’ Organizational Theory, Design, and Change, Fourth Edition, planned organizational change is normally targeted at improving effectiveness at one or more of four different levels: human resources, functional resources, technological capabilities, and organizational capabilities.[5] While not clear cut, organizational change in the LCBO as the result of increased demand for wine falls under several of these levels. Effectiveness at the human resources level is important because of the increasing knowledge of consumers. Staff at the retail level must be able to articulate product details, whether to novice wine drinkers or more seasoned connoisseurs. With the wide variety of wines available, staff must be trained not only to be knowledgeable on basic wine facts but also to be able to offer recommendations to customers. This requires more than buying everyone a copy of Robert Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide. A framework must be laid down to familiarize store staff with existing inventory as well as each new release of wines, so as to be able to act more as an advisor to customers rather than just a salesperson. In terms of functional resources, the LCBO must be able to handle rising levels of inventories. This means better coordination between its distributors and its retail locations. Systems must be in place to ensure that manageable levels of inventory are maintained in the stores, without sacrificing selection and choice for the consumer. Technological capabilities must increase. New IT systems must be implemented to keep track of inventories and shipment times. It is also useful for customers who are looking to see if certain bottles of wine are available in other locations. While laws forbid the online purchase and shipping of alcohol, an online database to view wine selections would be very useful for customers. We must now make a comparison of actual changes the LCBO made, to see if theory can make it into practice.

The organizational structure of the LCBO began to change in earnest in the late eighties. In 1988, the LCBO used no computers in its stores and all accounting and payroll tasks were done manually. Quarterly sales results took 6 months to reach upper management. It was obvious that things needed to be modernized. Every facet of the operation needed to be overhauled, along with its unknowledgeable and overstaffed stores. A new board and upper management was brought in, to bring accountability to the LCBO. New programs were introduced to improve on its organization, distribution systems and retail services, as well as a redesign of its stores. Customers began to respond favourably to these changes, as well as an aggressive new marketing campaign that sent the message that drinking wine was simply a part of a healthy lifestyle.

In recent years, LCBO has changed a great deal, to meet these new challenges. While not all of these changes can be attributed to the rising consumption of wine in Canada, it certainly has played the largest role in increasing profits and cash flows to the government. One task that the LCBO’s top management wanted to improve on was its supply chain procedures. A large part of the supply chain is the flow of inventory. The objective was to get 80% of deliveries straight from the trucks into the stores, without having to be stored in warehouses. To make this happen, store managers had to be retrained to work with smaller inventories that arrived just on time. Inventory managers used a centralized inventory replenishment system, which delivered inventories to stores several times a week, in smaller loads. The result is an inventory turnover rate of 7.6 compared to 5.2 times in 2001, a cost reduction of $86 million and an increase of $1 billion in sales.[6]

In 2003, LCBO instituted a system called New Item Submission System (NISS). This was provided to its suppliers, in an effort to bring new products to the market faster. It led to cost reductions of $1.18 million annually and nearly $130 million in new product revenue by managing new products almost immediately. In 2004, the LCBO introduced a more secure, flexible, and high performance Enterprise Project Management system (EPM). It wanted to provide its staff with an efficient way to collaborate on projects, and this software was the answer. Benefits were immediate: improved project management and resource allocation, streamlined communications and collaboration among IT teams, and reduced time spent on administrative tasks.

LCBO is also making a concerted effort to train its employees as well. All staff undergoes mandatory product knowledge training, and because of the improvements in supply chain procedures, are able to spend more time dealing directly with customers. There are also highly trained product experts that can provide customers with very detailed information; there are 190 employees who have received this designation. Finally, LCBO is dedicating more and more space for its Vintages section in their stores, specializing in more premium wines. All these changes and enhancements indicate that LCBO is not resting on the fact that it is a monopoly, and is actively pursuing opportunities that this new demand for wine can provide. It demonstrates that the LCBO is willing to do whatever is necessary to improve, whether it’s hi-tech solutions at the management level or training solutions at the store employee level. Every stage of the operation is crucial to its success.

Over the years, the LCBO's general trend has been towards innovation and learning. It has fostered this sense of learning, in order to better cope with changes in the marketplace. The LCBO has created a learning centre to gather research on changes made by its competitors. There have been new employee training techniques, such as teaching videos and new marketing strategies such as venturing into the gift market. An increase in IT has also been witnessed, as well as more product testing and knowledge management, to maintain a competitive edge. Most promisingly, upper management has displayed that it is able and willing to implement major changes. There have been significant efforts to increase the organization’s ability to handle and implement change, and as a result, the LCBO has become less bureaucratic and more responsive to the needs of its stakeholders.

Looking forward, there are some more improvements that can be implemented. A system to order wines online to be picked up at the store would be more efficient than the current system of sending in order forms and waiting for sales representatives to call for payment method confirmations. Also, more availability of premium wines would satisfy the die-hard wine collectors. While greatly improved, the distribution process is still in need of tweaking. Orders from special Vintages catalogues can take months to be delivered, even after arriving in warehouses. A more transparent tracking system, similar to the ones used by post offices, would allow customers to track their purchases online, without having to call LCBO over and over.

The LCBO truly is a model corporation for organizational change. It has shown that it has not only the ability to implement change, but also the willingness to do so. It always keeps an eye on the market, anticipating its next move so that there is no surprise. As for the future? Wine sales will only go up, and as wine consumers become more and more savvy, will LCBO be able to keep up? It will be a challenge to keep everyone satisfied, not only among the wine drinkers but also with the beer and spirits crowd as well. It is a challenge that LCBO has shown it can master.

References:

Barrows, David and Arthur Barrows., Change Management & the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO), IPAC IAPC Ryerson University Case Study 2.19

Bird, Malcolm G., Revolutionary Change: The Liquor Control Board of Ontario, 1985-2005, The Department of Public Policy and Administration, Carleton University, (June 2006), from: http://www.cpsa-acsp.ca/papers-2006/Bird.pdf

Cirillo, Jennifer., Beyond the Bottle, Beverage World, Vol. 126, Iss. 1781. (Dec 15, 2007), pp.60-68.

Genosko, Gary and Scott Thompson., LCBO: Profits vs. Social Responsibility, Toronto Star, (July 25, 2005), from: http://agora.lakeheadu.ca/agora.php?st=83

LCBO Annual Report 2002-2003, from: http://www.ontla.on.ca/library/repository/ser/7892/2002-2003.pdf

LCBO Annual Report 2005-2006, from: http://www.lcbo.com/images/pdfs/lcbo_an_report.pdf

LCBO.com, Media Centre, from: http://www.lcbo.com/aboutlcbo/media_centre/faq.shtml

Maclean, Natalie., The Grape Canadian North, Nat Decants, 2007, from: http://www.nataliemaclean.com/articles/canadian_wine_facts.asp

Patrick, Ryan B., LCBO keeps supply chain flowing, itWorldCanada, (July 9, 2004), from: http://www.itworldcanada.com/pages/docbase/viewarticle.aspx?id=idgml-034cf823-efba-4517&portal=extended%20enterprise&s=395692

Vintners Quality Alliance 2007 Annual Report, from: http://www.vqaontario.com/aboutVQA/AnnualReports/vqa_annual_report_07.pdf

Wines of Ontario, Media Centre Fact Sheet, from: http://winesofontario.org/MediaCentre/html/FactSheet.htm






[1] LCBO.com Media Centre
[2] LCBO 2002-2003 Annual Report, Wines, pp.24
[3] LCBO Annual Report 2005-2006, Wines, pp.10
[4] CNW Group, The increase in wine sales in Canada is twice as high as in the rest of the world, (Feb 8, 2007)
[5] Jones, Gareth. Organizational Theory, Design, and Change, Fourth Edition. Pg. 302
[6] Cirillo, Jennifer., Beyond the Bottle, pp.62

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

LCBO plastic bags

The Toronto Star finally produced an article that's worth reading. It's about the LCBO and how our premier is working towards a ban of plastic bag use. And it's something that I completely agree with.

I appreciate that LCBO has taken steps already to be more environmentally friendly. After all, every true wine lover is also an environmentalist at heart. Which, ironically, is very odd because global warming has been fantastic for the ripening of grapes.

Anyways, over the years, I've noticed that LCBO has steadily changed their packaging of wine. It used to be paper bags for every single bottle, and then a big, thick plastic bag. LCBO plastic bags are without a doubt the thickest bags anywhere. Glass bottles are heavy and need sturdy support. Stores then had a phase where they would paper bag some bottles and use these green mesh nets on the others, to prevent the bottles from breaking. In the past year or so, they've thankfully moved away from the nets. However, they're still sticking with the paper bags and plastic, although they've trained their staff to ask you whether or not you want a bag. It's a noble effort to try to cut down, but it's not enough. Definitely not enough.

Another issue is returning bottles. My family has always recycled bottles, but apparently the vast majority don't. That's why they instituted the bottle refund system, the same system as with beer bottles. And it's a great success - I don't mind paying an extra $0.20 deposit.

I don't understand why they can't phase out plastic bags altogether. Paper bags, at least you can recycle. But there's no way to recoup the losses of a plastic bag, from the resources needed to produce it, to what happens after you through it away. It's so damn thick that, as the article says, it's going to be in landfills for the next million years.

There's a stigma to carrying your own bag to go shopping. Things like groceries. Why? The Shanghainese do it. So do the French. So why not North Americans?

So, the conclusion is...I promise that from now on, I'll never pick up a plastic LCBO bag ever again. And I'll try to use as little paper bags as possible. The wines that I order from Vintages come in cardboard boxes, so I'm covered there. I can't believe how self-righteous North Americans are when it comes to environmentalism, since we're the most guilty in terms of pollution.

Reference: http://www.thestar.com/News/Canada/article/412876

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Bittersweet

My roommate was right - this is really bittersweet for me. I attended my last day of lectures today, as an undergrad at the University of Waterloo.

I cannot believe that I've spent 4 years here. How can it be? I mean, I still remember my first day in junior high.

This wasn't just about the profs, and the courses, and the books. My four years here has overwhelmingly been more about the experience. Being with friends, growing up a little bit, becoming independant.

Today was a long day, about 7 hours on campus. My last lecture was for ARTS 301. I'm pleased it worked out that way. Anyways, enough, have to begin studying. Definitely, I'll come back to this, after exams are over and it really hits me that school is over.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Emptying the cupboard


Both my roommates went back to Toronto this weekend, so I was alone. Finished my last bottle of wine in Waterloo, as an undergrad. Unfortunately, it was a terrible bottle, a very pretentious Chianti Classico that clearly was nowhere close to what an Italian wine should be.

I decided to clear out my wine cupboard last night. Took out all the empty bottles, packed up the ones that I`m taking back to Toronto. For this term, I had 24 wine bottles, 2 bottles of gin, and a couple other things that my roommates bought. When I went to refund them today at the Beer Store, the cashier short changed me as well. I've completely lost faith in the people of Waterloo. Why you can't you count up to 24?

So, getting ready for the final stretch. No more wine until final exams are over, I promise.

Friday, April 4, 2008

Vintages Orders

Things are looking up for 2008! I have a few lots of wines coming in, from both my 2005 Futures, from the March Classics Catalogue, as well as a Vintages special.

Two lots of my 2005 Bordeaux Futures have arrived at Bayview Village already. First thing I need to do when I return home is to pick them up. They are 3 bottles each of the 2005 CH. L'Arrosee and the 2005 CH. Rauzan Gassies.

From the March Classics Catalogue, I just received a phone call from LCBO that both the wines I ordered are in stock. I ordered one bottle each of the 1980 and 1981 Kopke Colheita Port. What's special is how rare colheitas are. They make up about 1% of the total production worldwide of port. Very, very special indeed.

And finally, I`m still waiting for my bottle of 1986 Glenfarclas Cask 3434. This is my bottle of vintage scotch, which I bought last October. For some reason, LCBO keeps delaying delivery, even though I'm told repeatedly that it`s arrived in their warehouses and just needs to be processed.

Hopefully, these will all arrive before April 25th, which I'll explain later. Looking forward to these wines, which I believe will form the foundation of my hopefully soon to be very large collection.