On an epic scale

The Louvre has a hall of Jacques-Louis David paintings, the most notable being the epic Le Sacre de Napoléon. You think you know these paintings from books and all that, but these are enormous in person. Grand subjects, grand works.

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Venus de Milo

She's absolutely stunning. And then I got elbowed in the back, a not so subtle hint to make way for another wave of trigger-happy, utterly clueless tourists who couldn't care less about what they were actually looking at. Is the Louvre still a temple of classical art if one can no longer actually enjoy the art?

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Basilique du Sacré Coeur

It's imposing and Tolkien, and yet I've never seen such filth. From the lurid street performers to the Moorish bouncers stomping inside the basilica, Montmartre is nothing but a shithole so high up on a hill its stink must make the angels' eyes water.

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Like a postcard

Everyone . . . everyone has seen at least one photo of the Eiffel Tower in their life. But it's not until you actually see it in person that you appreciate how beautiful it really is. To bring the interior structure of the building into plain view - and to think, they originally wanted to tear the thing down after 2 years.

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Turning 25

I've developed a habit of never spending birthdays at home. Doesn't seem to be a problem for me . . . April's always a good time to be traveling. I had planned on seeing the Eiffel Tower on the 28th, but when you're in a foreign country trying to speak a foreign language, shit happens and sometimes things don't go according to plan. So, after a day of doing other things, we found a little bistro just outside of the Jardin du Luxembourg, facing the Panthéon. Agreeable food, though nothing to write about. And with the meal, as I turned 25, a simple, humble Côtes du Rhône.

The white asparagus was delicious. And at least I ate red meat on my birthday.

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Arc de Triomphe

La Marseillaise, play it!

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Place de la Concorde

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La Sainte-Chapelle

You don't think it's much, but you take the tiny winding staircase up, and then . . . dazzling.

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Liberté! Égalité! Fraternité!

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La Dame de Fer

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Cathédrale de Notre-Dame de Paris

It's a shame that people rush in here, all P&S blazing, and forget that this is a religious place, and the seat of the Catholic Archdiocese of Paris. By design a dimly lit building, the stained glass windows are elaborate, but lets little natural light in. Great atmosphere - especially as voices echo. We sat down to contemplate the cathedral a little, as the service began. What did they say about striking the fear of God into you . . . ?

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Panthéon

It's striking, looking at these magnificent structures, how crucial prudent city planning is. Not a single highrise to blemish the view.

It was a beautiful day, and escaping the suffocating spores and pollen of the Jardin du Luxembourg, we came upon this monument built to honour French citizens of great distinction. We made our way down to the crypts, in which rested Victor Hugo and Alexandre Dumas, père. The two masters were side by side too. Then, to shake off the subterranean chill, we climbed up to the dome.

I was a bit unsettled at how what is supposed to be a mausoleum has become almost an attraction for gawkers and unruly tourists. Surely, Dumas must be horrified to be pointed at, and be subjected to P&S flashes everyday. But then it must mean something, for your life's work, and by extension your life, to be so treasured.

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Jardin du Luxembourg

The Jardin du Luxembourg is beautiful, but the dusty stone roads they've maintained means that it only takes a little sneeze of wind to cover everyone (and everything) in a fine layer of white. I've somewhat outgrown my pollen allergies, but I didn't last more than 15 minutes in here. It was like a broken faucet, a complete disaster. The people playing with the very elaborately constructed boats in the fountain didn't seem to mind though.

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