Pudong, Shanghai

And on the eastern shore of the HuangPu River, facing The Bund, the skyline of Pudong. A completely different character, the modern and exciting face of the new China. A few notable landmarks, starting from the left - the Oriental Pearl Tower being the most widely recognized. In the middle, the two tallest buildings are JinMao Tower, and the newly built Shanghai World Financial Centre. A third building will soon be erected alongside, reaching even higher to complete the SWFC, becoming one of the highest structures in the world.

A humid, rainy day when we walked along The Bund. This is what it actually looked like - you could barely make out the tops of the buildings. I suppose I could process the photos to show more definition, but I'm neither talented, or kitsch enough to do so. The old barge slowly making its way up the Huangpu River adds a nice touch.

DF

The Bund, Shanghai

The Bund, the most magnificent waterfront in the world. A series of historical buildings on the western shore of the HuangPu River, this area was formerly a foreign enclave, housing numerous banks and trading houses from the United Kingdom, France, United States of America, Russia, Germany, Japan, the Netherlands, and Belgium, as well as the Shanghai Club, and the Masonic Club. It's been under heavy renovation for the past few years - I haven't been to this area in 6 years, owing to the amount of construction. The boardwalk lining the river has been raised a few metres, to assist in efforts to clean the HuangPu River, and as you can see, the concrete and benches are brand new.

The buildings have also been touched up, with floodlights illuminating the entire strip at night. In the foreground is the HSBC Building, followed by the Customs House, featuring those iconic clocks. Next is the Bank of Communications Building, followed by the Russo-Chinese Bank. They were built in the late 19th centure to early 20th century, and feature architectural styles such as Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical, Beaux-Arts, and Art Deco, with Shanghai possessing one of the richest collections of Art Deco architectures in the world. Grand - not many cities of the world share such a glorious past. Old Shanghai, at its most majestic.

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Night lights

Shanghai does this better than anyone. It's so, so easy for street lights to turn kitschy, but these just seem elegant, proper. But really, the true art is in the hanging. A fortune must have been spent on draping all those beautiful trees, and installing floodlights on the buildings. Beautiful brights and lights.

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Tree lined and old

One thing I love about this city is the tree lined boulevards, in all the old districts. Beautifully erect, tall trees, lined up perfectly. Too bad they aren't particularly healthy, but it would be such a shame to uproot them - Huai Hai Road without her timbers standing guard would be just another dusty, busy street.

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Piano and strings with your Van Cleef & Arpels

We were walking through another mall, and the way these are built here really struck me - aside from how glitzy the stores inside are (look along the bottom left side), these structures are architectural wonders themselves. Bright skylight, contrasting levels and elevator banks, marble floors - really overwhelming in fact. Of course, I was the only moron caught gawking at how massive the mall was, craning my neck like an out-of-town bumpkin. And then...the piano and string quartet began playing. A perfect accompaniment to a leisurely afternoon of strolling and fine Swiss timepieces.

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Being grand

Everywhere in Shanghai, in the swankiest neighbourhoods, can be found grand monuments to China's newfound consumerism. The shopping mall, taken to a whole new level. Look at this - multi-level, bright lights, makeup station and Mercedes Benz showroom in the lobby. Grand, any way you look at it. And there's going to be a Club Monaco opening up soon!

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Green in the city

There are lots of trees, plants, and general greens planted in Shanghai. Looks pretty, but I was reminded that these things don't just sprout out of the ground. Strolling around a busy neighbourhood our first week there, I saw these women busy planting the shrubs. I also saw a lot of workers spraying fertilizer all over the city, over plants and grass. One wonders - with such use of chemicals, and its obvious effects on the environment, are these aesthetics worth it, in the long run? Sure it looks nice, but at what cost?

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Leaving on a jet plane

Let's start from the beginning. Walking into Pearson Airport's Terminal 1, we saw an old friend once again - Richard Serra's Tilted Spheres. Beautiful, and while my mother went shopping at duty-free, I walked around and took some photos. Sort of a roaring curved wall, completely surrounding you if you venture inside. A nice little familiar sight, seeing us off on our 15 hour direct flight to Shanghai's Pudong International Airport. The flight was an ordeal, and it took us some time to get through Chinese customs, but we made it out. And then the real ordeal began.

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Well, I'm back

Comrades, it's been a while. I've been settling in, back in Toronto, back home. It's been a tough trip, no doubt. Took care of business, but these trips back are always difficult. Catching up with family is wonderful at times, an ordeal in others. It's hard to remember not to be selfish and run out to explore my city and actually see some things. Because my trip is anything but my own, no? I have to capitulate to what other people want, always, because I can't be a prick and spend my money how I see fit. Am I that much of a fucking foreigner that none of these Oriental-isms make sense to me? I have to meet your lunatic family because.........why?

Shanghai is magnificent. Truly one of the great cities of the world, in many ways. I've kept a journal, taking detailed notes daily. I'll be more reflective later on, when I've distanced myself a bit more from this trip. I took less photos than I thought - 1298, about half of what I expected.

I've got nothing profound to write, at least today. The 2010 World Exposition has finally begun. Impressive all around, photos of the grounds and pavilions to follow. We were entertained quite often, and although I've gained some inspiration, culinary-wise, I gained more insight into how Shanghainese tastes run. The drinking was certainly fun. Nothing makes you feel more manly than polishing off a few bottles of fortified rice wine and still have the presence of mind to find my way home. I got sick a week in, badly. Not enough sleep, not used to the climate, unnaturally stressed - did I mention I was supposed to be on vacation? Still jetlagged on the way back, brutally.

Just bumbling on now, more later, when my photos are ready. In any case, this trip was very rewarding. Shanghai's my city - I feel an inexplicable connection with her, one that I hope to share over the next few weeks.

DF

By facsimile

I'm back.

DF

Until we see each other again...

I leave for Shanghai tomorrow morning. It's going to be a difficult trip - we'll be burying my grandfather. I jump at the chance to visit the motherland, but not under these circumstances. No, not like this.

I haven't been thinking about this trip - no itinerary planned, no activities, not sure of the places I want to visit. We'll see what happens when we get there. What I do have is my camera - looking to really put my wide angle to good use. And of course, a big part of this trip is going to be the food that's coming into season. Lots of copious note-taking, lots of photos, and hopefully, I'll come back from the trip with new culinary inspiration.

Blogging is not going to happen while I'm there. I'm certain of it. Will be missing the start of En Primeur madness in Bordeaux, but that's ok. I've heard of some interesting wine bars and shops opening in Shanghai - guess I'll have to see for myself. World Expo 2010 opening soon as well. So, mes amis, hope everyone stays well as we head into spring...I'll see you in a month.

DF

2008 Nahe

2008 Paul Anheuser Riesling Kabinett, Schlossböckelheimer Königsfels, QmP Nahe

This is a discovery for me. My first time tasting a wine of Nahe, Germany. For riesling, this region certainly sits in the shadow of its big brothers - southeast of the Mosel, and southwest of the Rheingau, Nahe rieslings are said to combine the best aspects of its more famous brethren - the steely slate minerality of the Mosel, with the richness of the Rheingau.

Certainly proves its worth - this wine is spectacular. Very pale colour, nearly clear at the rim. While very young, the bouquet shows a lot of slate, lots of pure minerals, and citrus fruit. Undeniably German, and can go with the best of young Mosel wines. Even shows a touch of green. Very complex, very well defined aromas, especially in a young wine. Palate shows great balance, with very high acidity. Finishes a bit coarse, but this wine will age beautifully.

This wine is the epitome of precision. Focused, bright, pure riesling. Very, very impressive indeed.

DF

1983 Rheingau

1983 Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett, Winkeler Jesuitengarten, QmP Rheingau

I've drunk this wine before. This being the last bottle I had, the plan was to drink it over the summer, maybe as part of a comprehensive look at '80's and early '90's reislings. But, this being my last weekend in Toronto...wine's meant for drinking right?

I love these old riesling. Golden in colour, with orange flecks at the rim, showing an incredibly focused bouquet of oily minerality, stewed apples, pears. Follows through on the palate, good sweetness, very harmonious, very balanced. Great length on the finish. I could drink these wines forever.

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Look at the colour!

Just one more...indulge me. Look at how dramatic the colour of red wine changes as it matures. Which one would you instinctively go for, without knowing what was in each glass?

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1985 Rioja

1985 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva, DOCa Rioja

Second wine of the night, and clearly the most spectacular wine I've drank this year. Unfortunately, I don't have the opportunity to drink a lot of old wines, and this release was one I was going to buy, regardless of price. From the same producer as the last wine, the 2004 Coto de Imaz. The only difference (besides vintage) was that this wine was a Gran Reserva, implying a longer aging period, both in oak barrel and in the bottle, before the wine was released.

With these older wines, you have to temper your expectations. I wanted really hard to just fall in love, but I had to remind myself that this wine was a year older than I was. Thankfully, there was no need for any trepidation - the wine was spectacular. Shows a very mature colour, all brick red, amber edges, deep orange/red at the core. Holds onto its saturation very well - still showing colour at the rim. The bouquet was stunning. My goodness. Showing a lot of stewed strawberries, very pure, gently aromatic and very mature. The minerality, the narrative connecting this wine with the 2004, underlines the still intense fruit. Focus remains. I'm not going to by hyperbolic and say how young the wine was on the nose. This was clearly a mature wine, clearly one over 20 years. What was so fascinating was its intensity, its focus. A grand old man with all his faculties of mind and body intact, but showing the wear of his years.

Very harmonious on the palate, elegant, showing the fruit aromas - stewed strawberries, plums, red berries. Very balanced, showing how special wine can be when all its elements integrate perfectly. Acidity rides high on the finish, leaving the faint impression of very fine tannins. Extraordinarily long, spice-filled finish. Yes, the wine is old, but still has lots of fight and vigour left. Easily can go for another 10 years.

The wine held up well over the 2 days we drank it. Remains focused - many of these older wines begin breaking apart with air. And with pan-seared steak...wow. Delicious all the way, the acidity perfectly cutting the fat, the flavours just melding and creating a symphony of lights on the palate.

A grand example of how important a wine classically-made Rioja is.

DF

2004 Rioja

2004 Coto de Imaz Reserva, DOCa Rioja

Finally, onto the wines sealed under those corks. The first wine of Thursday night, the start of my month off from civilization. I'd been sitting on this bottle for a few months, just for this occasion - to drink alongside a bottle of 1985 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva, featured next. Same producer, different vintage...there is no greater pleasure that can be had.

Dark colour, deep red and purple, still glimmering. The minerality is very much the centerpiece, just a striking wave of crushed wet rocks, spring brook, and mineral water. This is the narative that connects the 2004 with the 1985. Fills with darker berries, strawberries, some spice. What a lovely aroma - at a very youthful stage, but there's excellent intensity, focus. Just sings of what classically made Rioja can deliver in the bouquet.

The palate is just delicious. Berries dance, but there's a tightness and austerity that's extraordinary. Tension in the wine, tannins are tight but focused, very fine. Long, spicy finish, beautifully traditional Rioja, with the potential to age in a very good way.

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Corks, old and new

Is it obvious now? I've written earlier about what a cork can tell you - the most important information it provides is cellaring condition. The young wine on the left...cork shows no seeping, perfectly even stain on the end. The one on the right - showing more wear and tear. Cork is mishapen, drying out, with a deep stain in the center. Still drew out quite cleanly, in one piece. A miracle, considering it was about 25 years old.

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Uncorking a mystery

Uncorking old bottles of wine...so exciting! Never know what to expect. Of course, it could all go so horribly wrong, in so many horrible ways. But when it all comes together, you're reminded why you do it. We're reminded why we spend countless hours, hard-earned money, and general health of body and mind to understand the mystery and the suspense of great wines.

Two wines lined up. Which one is the mature forefather, which one is the youngster? Pretty obvious, no?

DF

Boozy

I can't remember the last time I've drank so much over a 3-day period. Going out for a long run soon - need to detox because I'm pretty sure it's not good to get on a 15 hour flight with a hangover. Pressurized cabin, cramped seating, ugly flight attendants, shitty food, and all.

We had friends over for dinner last night. Was talking wine to one of our guests, when we were rudely interrupted. You see why I don't like cooking dinner for more than 8 people? Anyways, good to see everyone again, and a great excuse to quietly polish off two 6-packs.

---Blogger's note, 4:47 pm:

So, just came back from my run, legs hurt, toes hurt, but otherwise, still breathing. Ran 10 km in 38:05.17, about 5 minutes off my time from a year ago. Good stuff, especially since I wasn't at my best today - not enough food going in, not enough water, alcohol still swimming in my veins. Hoping to get that time down to about 35 minutes, but a good start. The Don River ravine was full of people today. Which makes it a bit annoying - constantly swerving to avoid running over toddlers begins to feel like razor blades are attached inside the shoe, cutting into your ankles everytime you roll.

More wine tonight - finishing up a bottle of Nahe riesling...the next time I'll be touching any wine, it'll be in another country.

DF

On cooking

It's late, but a quick word before I (finally) head to bed. Right. And I need to go for a long run tomorrow - technically, later today. 10 km, in the ravine.

I'm thoroughly convinced that people appreciate subtlety in Chinese cooking. For our dinner service tonight, for 20 people, I cooked a few dishes. The star was asparagus, of all things. A really simple dish, literally 5 minutes. But everyone loved the dish, and asked endless questions about how I cooked it. Subtlety. There's no need for lots of seasoning, lots of different sauces and whatever. My goal was to express the freshness of the asparagus to the fullest - anything that obfuscates the natural flavour of the asparagus is a disaster.

Keep it simple. I don't understand why people don't get that simple, simple concept. That's why the majority of people can't cook for shit, no?

DF

Tasting greatness

I'm sitting now, after a long dinner, with three glasses of wine. I'm drinking a 1985 and a 2004 Rioja, from the same producer, along with a 1983 Rheingau riesling. All three wines are sublime - they taste of wonder, and the grandeur of what true terroir wines can deliver. And I'm reminded why I fell in love with this fickle, sometimes frustrating obsession.

Photos, and an in depth look at these wines, in a few days.

DF

No more

And would you look at that...it's April. New month, new rules. No more hustling links on facebook and twitter. It's annoying, and tacky, and I just don't do tacky.

My hits are going to suffer, but at least my pride won't. Please add me to your google reader, blogroll, etc. - it'll be much easier to follow my writing that way. Trust me.

DF

Accoutrements

This is the extent to which men should accessorize their suits. Lapel pin, crown. Paul Smith silk handkerchief. That's it. If you use a lapel pin, don't use a tie bar or a collar bar. If you use a tie bar, don't use a pin. Simple concept. And don't match your handkerchief to your tie. Spare us all the eyesore and please, please don't match.

But you see how the way you tuck the handkerchief completely changes the character of your look. I stick to linen mostly, square. Sharp, clean, very dignified. But with silk handkerchiefs, having the points out just seems.......more interesting. More character. I don't use silk very often but when I do...watch out ladies. Watch out.

Photo, courtesy of ROKChoi. Many thanks.

DF

Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, consolidated

Speaking of Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, here are all the links about the tasting. Enjoy, mes amis.

Bordeaux Meets Burgundy Tasting
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Bourgogne Blanc
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Côte de Nuits
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Côte de Beaune
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Bordeaux Blanc
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - 2005 Bordeaux
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - 2006 Bordeaux
Coming home from a tasting
The Doctor
Meeting the President
Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, polished

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2006 Montagne-Saint-Émilion

2006 Château Faizeau Sélection Vielles Vignes, AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion

Faizeau is a big time wine. I'm building a vertical of it - the first vintage I tasted was a 2002, and it was love at first sight. Last bottle I drank was a 2003, my goodness, drunk two years ago. I have a few bottles of the 2006 sitting around, and with some inspiration courtesy of Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, I wanted to drink it.

100% merlot, from old vines in a somewhat obscure region of right bank Bordeaux. Dark colour, but clear red glimmers. Drank it over 2 days, with no need to decant - sediment has yet to form. Nose booms of well-framed oak, berries. What's beautiful is the savoury, meaty character that develops after 5 hours. Good stuff. Some minerality as well. And who says merlot isn't a serious wine? Palate shows a lot of elegance, with fine tannins, good balance. Oak is quite subtle, but still needs some time to integrate. Finish is a bit clunky, but this is still very, very young.

This wine demonstrates the distince relationship between the various elements of fruit, tannin, acid, alcohol, and oak. While beautifully balanced, the elements are still a bit combative - no doubt the young siblings who need to grow up a bit more to learn to appreciate one another. I have no doubt that in 15 years, this wine will be beautiful. Not a grand wine of Bordeaux, mind you - but a beautiful one, nonetheless.

DF

2004 Douro

2004 Dow's Late Bottled Vintage Port, Douro

Rolling out the red carpet for yet another sublime Late Bottled Vintage Port. I opened this to drink with my lamb. You must trust me on this, meat and LBV are supposed to be together. You want to talk about meant to be........? This is it.

Dark, saturated purple, very vivid. Lovely bouquet, just dark berries, slight jamminess, very fresh. Good structure, grippy tannins, long finish - all that I love about LBV. This is my little secret indulgence. The Portuguese are hairy marauders, but damn they have some great wines.

DF

Working it

I had a monster workout today. Worked out to the point of almost puking. And the whole time I was cranking that shit out, I was running this in my mind. You've got to have that anger, that aggression - otherwise you just end up like that ditz who sleepwalks on the elliptical, trying to get guys to notice how tight her tights ride up her ass.

But no, the French are wonderful. Just not this asshole.

DF

Almost there

Went out for a walk this weekend - spring's almost here. Still dreary out, grass still withered. But spring is coming.

DF

Vines Magazine

Just started reading this wine magazine, from Canada (!). Vines magazine, which I received a few free issues of - I think I'm going to get a subscription. Really enjoy the editorials - sometimes people are so focused on wine criticism that they forget...wine writing entails some actual writing.

Search out this issue - includes a feature on Derek Barnett, of Lailey. Good stuff. Well earned, Derek - you deserve a little recognition for not compromising and producing true Niagara wine.

DF

Fizz, pop, bang

It's been far too long since my last bottle of Champagne. Far too long.

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Need it, want it

I'm inspired by Lloyd Flatt's auction. I don't want to die with an intact cellar - and my writing always seems better after a few glasses. I don't think I could love another human being as much as I love to drink. That's how I'd like to be remembered...as a man of discerning palate and taste, a true lover of wine.

DF

2008 Mosel

2008 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Riesling, QbA Mosel

An entry level riesling from a very reputable Mosel producer. Can't go wrong. Simple, balanced wine, delicious with food, very pure fruit. Would like to pay less, but what do you do.

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Colour over fire

I love drinking wine over candles. Really shows you the saturation, and throws off a beautiful hue. Look at how beautiful this is, ruby and glowing. And drinking in the dark makes it really, really easy to over-indulge. Delicious.

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Dark on the stairs

I had candles going up the stairs. Ambience. A bit cultish, but very cozy.

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Cheese platter, in the dark

And then we enjoyed some cheese and a late bottled vintage port, in the dark.

DF

Earth Hour, 2010

It was Earth Hour this weekend. I hope everyone celebrated it. Yes, I think of it as a celebration. People are sniping about how the electricity usage didn't go down, that it's a sham. How cynical. You can't just shut off the lights, and enjoy the darkness? Being able to see your dinner companion's face is overrated. At times, I'd very much prefer to listen to her voice instead, which is what we did - we experienced the food and the wine, and the conversation in a completely different manner. And it worked - the wine certainly tasted phenomenal.

Maybe I'll start making this a regular feature for my dinners.

DF

Seared lamb

I had lamb last Friday. Seared hard, with whole crushed garlic, rosemary. These need to be seasoned heavily, then cooked to pink inside. With a glass of young claret - delicious.

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Stumbling around downtown Toronto

As I drunkenly stumbled through Eaton Centre, looking to see if Arby's was still open, the soft glow coming off the geese fascinated me. So I drunkenly took a shot. Because no one's ever taken this shot before, right?

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Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, polished

I really like the hotel that this event was held at. Polished silver, gold-buttoned coats, white gloves...too bad the guests were all drunk. At least I didn't spill any wine, like last time.

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Meeting the President

I was introduced to this gentleman, Mr. Greg Dunlop - the European Wines Category Manager for the LCBO. We had a great conversation about a lot of things, among them LCBO's Vintages Online website.

I need to start taking better photos. Look at my face. Ugh.

DF

The Doctor

This is what you wear to a tasting that decrees a business attire dress code. Paul Stuart wool jacket, 3 button, single vent. Franco cotton shirt, spread collar. Hugo Boss silk tie, with burgundy accents. Can't see them, but Aquascutum, grey checked pants. Regal brown shoes. No linen this time - I needed the pocket to put my sunglasses in. Of course, a tie bar, because you don't want your tie to dip into the spit bucket.

I have come to the conclusion that tasting and judging young claret is an utterly futile exercise, leaving the taster with nothing but a mess of tannin-stained teeth. But these tastings are so fun. I met this gentleman. The Doctor really knows how to work a room. You know one of those cats that seem to know everyone? He introduced me to some of his buddies, including the next gentleman...

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Coming home from a tasting

Well, usually at these big wine tastings, they put out paper cups for you to use as spittoons. None were offered at this tasting. I pounded the wine like there was no tomorrow. I can't claim that my palate wasn't affected. But I was really, really happy, and mingling like I've never mingled before. At about 2 ounces per pour, I must have drunk at least about 2/3 of a bottle three hours into the tasting. It was great. Walking along King Street after, I was mesmerized by the lights.

I was so drunk.

DF

Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - 2006 Bordeaux

Moving onto 2006 Bordeaux. What's been exclaimed as a more classic vintage for Bordeaux, 2006 came out very expensive, and I hope that it's all worth it. The tasting was great - the superstar was of course, 2006 Margaux, at $800. Needed a ticket for it as well. A very feminine wine, so elegant, and money being no object, this is the First Growth that I'd put in my cellar. What excited me more, as it makes a lot more sense, is the Branaire-Ducru. My first time tasting this wine, and it was amazing, in terms of classic claret that is eminently ageable. Wonderful, and I need to put this wine in my cellar.

2006 Château Margaux, AC Margaux 1er Cru: a star, rustic nose, briary tight structure, very feminine in contrast to Mouton, exceptionally elegant, a very fine wine
2006 Château Chasse-Spleen, AC Moulis: good creamy berries on the nose, tight structure, finishes a bit coarse, needs a lot of time
2006 Les Forts de Latour, AC Pauillac, 2nd Wine of Ch. Latour: good fruit, big structure, big tannins, should be delicious in 5-10 years, very expensive at $145 though
2006 Château Branaire-Ducru, AC Saint-Julien 4ème cru: a star of the Left Bank wines - very fresh berries, high acidity, very fine tannins, very long - I need to look into buying this wine
2006 Château Gruaud-Larose, Ac Saint-Julien 2ème cru: rustic nose, sweet palate, rustic finish, almost a bit dirty
2006 Château Canon, AC Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé: fruit is just extraordinarily fresh, soft structure, very approachable - is this what it takes to be a 1er Grand Cru Classé? If so, I have no interest in putting any of this in my cellar

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Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - 2005 Bordeaux

Drinking 2005 Bordeaux is always a pleasure. At just over 4 years of age, this should be interesting to see how everything's going. The star, of course, was 2005 Mouton-Rothschild. Yeah, tasting $1000 wine is always epic. We even needed tickets to get a taste. It's a very surprising wine - certainly not the overblown, oak monster you think it'd be, after all that Parker's written about it. It's sublime, very balanced, very elegant, very concentrated. Oaky at the moment, but clearly a special wine. The rest of the 2005's were showing favourably. Finely structure, and a vintage that I'm looking forward to drink over the next 20 years.

2005 Château Mouton-Rothschild, AC Pauillac 1er Cru: oaky nose, concentrated, big structure but very, very fine tannins, incredible balance, elegant and very polished
2005 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, AC Pauillac 2ème Cru: perfumed nose, creamy fruit, finish is a bit coarse, very dry
2005 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, AC Pessac-Léognan: good nose, fresh fruits, dark berries, very fine structure
2005 Château Montrose, AC Saint-Estèphe 2ème Cru: perfumed nose, juicy berries, hard structure, very big, dry finish, needs time but should be very good
2005 Château Brane-Cantenac, AC Margaux 2ème Cru: a bit vegetal on the nose, good stuffing, dark berries, sweet fruit, structure remains tight
2005 Château L'Arrosée, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: perfumed fruit, good balance, gorgeous aromas, big structure

DF

Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Bordeaux Blanc

Looking forward to these wines. In the past few months, I've been mad for white Bordeaux. They didn't pour that many at this tasting, but the ones they did show were outstanding. The lone Sauternes I tasted was extraodinary, a 50 year wine. Smith Haut Lafitte was delicious, as it always is. The surprise was the Talbot - a white wine coming out of St-Julien. I will be buying heavily into dry white Bordeaux, wines of great balance, aromatics, and aging capacity.

2006 Caillou Blanc du Talbot, AC Saint-Julien: booming sauvignon nose, very fresh, some green on the palate, high acidity, very fresh fruit
2005 Château Carbonnieux Blanc, AC Pessac-Léognan: tropical fruit on the nose, very fruit forward, fresh, oak on the palate, lots of fruit, finishes with lots of creamy oak, delicious
2006 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, AC Pessac-Léognan: good combination of fruit and oak, very high acidity
2005 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, AC Sauternes 1er Cru: so much apricot on the nose, very sweet, dried fruit on finish, very concentrated and viscous, incredible length, a big, important wine

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Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Côte de Beaune

Moving onto the wines of the Côte de Beaune. These were clearly my favourite red Burgundies of the night. I just fell in love with Volnay. Rustic, austere wines, silky femininity and so, so seductive. My goodness. If I had the money, these were the trophies I'd bring home. The 2005's were stunning, but the 2006's showed well - both vintages need lots of time in the bottle to unwind. The bouquets were just extraordinary. Shows why Burgundy is one of the world's finest wines.

2006 Domaine Blain-Gagnard Volnay Champans 1er Cru: good perfume, great fruit, very tight structure, lovely personality
2006 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru: rustic nose and mouth, bigger tannins, losing some focus on the palate
2006 Fernand & Laurent Pillot Pommard Les Charmots 1er Cru: my favourite Volnay, and possibly of the all the red Burgundies; very rustic nose, earthy bouquet, lovely fruit, sweet in the mouth, loads of fresh berries, tight tannins; just a fantastically complete wine
2006 Thierry & Pascal Matrot La Pièce Sous Le Bois Blagny 1er Cru: fruit forward nose, good structure, soft, more feminine, furry tannins
2006 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Corton Le Corton Grand Cru: very fine, elegant and linear palate, needs time to round out the bitter finish
2005 Domaine Parent Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru: rustic nose, dark fruits, very stiff structure, very dry, needs a lot of time
2006 Maison Champy Corton Grand Cru: some alcohol burning on the nose, bright fruit on the palate, juicy

DF

Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Côte de Nuits

Moving onto the red Burgundies of the Côte de Nuits. 100% pinot noir of course - I was pumped to taste the 2005's. Big, big blockbuster vintage. The question was, as it always is, about balance. Would the fruit, the alcohol, the acidity, the oak all be in balance? Yes, in most cases. There's a lovely fine texture and structure to all these wines - some a bit oakier than others, but all showing fabulous pinot noir character, and that tell-tale rusticity that I just adore in Burgundy. Wonderful all around. The Grand Cru wines, especially of the Clos de Vougeot clearly show their pedigree, and their $169 price tag. They need a good 20 years, but wow, these wines are spectacular.

2005 Domaine de la Vougeraie Nuits-St-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru: juicy fruit, tar on bouquet, fresh berries, very fine structure, low in weight but good intensity
2006 Domaine de la Vougeraie Nuits-St-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru: earthy red berries on nose, fine structure, lean
2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges Clos Des Porrets Saint-Georges 1er Cru: earty nose, fine structure, fresh berries, grippy tannins cling nicely, candied fruit on finish
2006 Domaine Pierre Amiot & Fils Morey-Saint-Denis Les Ruchots 1er Cru: rustic nose, darker fruit, lean fine structure, finish is a bit coarse
2005 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru: great fruit, spicy, good structure, solid wine
2006 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru: rustic all around, good structure, finishes coarse
2005 Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru: round, rustic nose, velvet palate, very refined, a star

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Bordeaux Meets Burgundy - Bourgogne Blanc

The white Burgundies being poured were interesting to taste, for me. My experience with Bourgogne blanc lies mostly with Chablis, and this presented an excellent opportunity to learn more about the more acclaimed regions for chardonnay. Overall, the wines were a bit oakier than I would have liked to have seen. Certainly, the 2005's and some of the 2006's are meant for aging. Balanced, well-integrated alcohols, with ripe fruit. Would have liked to have seen less oak, but with age, these wines are going to be delicious. The Grand Cru wines clearly need at least 7-10 years to allow the oak to settle down. But would I pay $150+ for them? Would you?

2006 Domaine Colin-Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet en Remilly 1er Cru: oaky, creamy nose, very powerful acids, bitter finish
2005 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet en Virondot 1er Cru: pungent, rustic nose, straw, lean palate
2006 Maison Louis Latour Meursault Poruzots 1er Cru: reticent nose, creamy palate, lacks intensity, nondescript fruit, even finishes a bit candied
2006 Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: lean, hollow fruit, very bitter
2006 Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: oaky nose, fresh fruit, palate shows high levels of oak

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Bordeaux Meets Burgundy Tasting

I attended an LCBO tasting last week, Bordeaux Meets Burgundy, held at the Le Méridien King Edward Hotel in downtown Toronto. It showcased 2005/2006 Bordeaux and Burgundy, and included a silent auction for various lots from both wine regions. I was excited - of the wines being poured, I was only going for the Burgundy. The plan was to focus on those first, while the palate and mind were still fresh. Any Bordeaux I had the chance to taste would have been a bonus - I was getting all my money's worth on Burgundy.

It was a great event. Met some interesting people, the wines showed well. Tasting notes to follow.

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2007 Twenty Mile Bench

2007 Le Clos Jordanne Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Chardonnay, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Feeling like drinking a trophy wine. What the hell. What some (including myself) regard as the finest wines in Niagara, Le Clos Jordanne follows Burgundian traditions in a New World context. I adore their pinot noirs, and having some experience with their vineyards and production facilities, I eagerly opened a bottle of their single-vineyard chardonnay, from one of the most blockbuster vintages in Niagara history.

I double decanted for about 3 hours. In the glass, a pale colour. Lots of creamy oak on the nose, some bright citrus fruit beginning to peak out. Some minerality as well. No doubt, this is a 2007 wine - a vintage of great heat and aridity. Texture in the mouth still needs to fill out a bit, ends with booming oak - just a shattering amount of creamy, sweet oak. That's a problem for me. I'm of course drinking and judging this wine far too early. We'll see in 5 years or so. Hopefully, the wood integrates, the fruit blossoms, and the texture fills out.

No doubt a big wine. But an important one? Time will reveal all.

DF