Vacu Vin Lucite

I've been keeping an eye out for the perfect wine bottle spout for a few months now. I'm not a good pourer . . . dripping everywhere is a problem, as many middle-aged men will attest to. And it just makes such a poor impression when I begin slurping up the precious drops off the dinner table. My template for the perfect spout has been the metal ones used during the UGC Bordeaux tasting held this January in Toronto. The producers all had their labels emblazened on these perfectly shaped metal spouts, which apparently is manufactured in house because I've scoured the internet and not a single retailer has them.

So I found the next best thing. Junors at Bayview Village, coming through in the clutch for me, yet again.

These are Vacu Vin Lucite Wine Pourers, exquisitely shaped and very similar to what I was looking for. Finally, I'm drip free. Why would I need such a thing? A lot of what I want (in wine, food, clothing) doesn't make sense and has no relevance in real life. But I tell myself I'm special like that . . . no, I have no problems falling asleep at night. Drip free at last, drip free at least, tha . . . . . . . . . . . (ok, I'll stop)

DF

The arrow points . . .

It's funny how quickly screwcaps have become the primary closure for Shaoxing wines - I still have a few bottles (very, very few) that were bottled under cork, but contrary to the debate in wine, all these bottles should be under screwcap. Why? Because it's clearly more appropriate for this type of wine. This all came up, by the way, during an increasingly animated discussion I enjoyed recently with an older family friend about the merits of different types of bottle closures. The conversation quickly devolved into him telling me he knows better because he's lived 30 more years on this earth than I have, and me retorting that I've spit out more wine than he's swallowed.

Shaoxing wine is an oxidized wine made out of rice and other grains - it does not benefit from additional bottle age. What it does benefit from is extended contact on its lees, denoted by the age given on the label. There is no vintage date, but what it will tell you is whether it's been aged for 5 year, 8 years, 10 years . . . with the general understanding that the longer it's been aged before filtering and bottling, the finer it is.

So, under that reasoning, would it not make sense for you to experience Shaoxing wine in its freshest state, very similar to Colheita Port? That you would want the closure to be as airtight as possible, because even the most minute transmission of oxygen will destroy the wine, not help it develop? Just how does an oxidized, otherwise understood as spoiled, wine develop? Not to mention that the corks used by Chinese producers are generally awful. Poor quality, shrivelled closures that I've never managed, ever, to cleanly draw out. And these bottles are usually shaped more like jars - there's no way to lie them flat, and you probably wouldn't want to. Such a poor fit all but guarantees that half the bottle will be tipped out.

The finale to this whole argument is simple. That I'm right and he's a moron is a foregone conclusion - it's that closures have to match the type of drink they're enclosing, rather than be done for some kind of notion that it represents how modern a producer is. Would I happily drink wines out of screwcap? Absolutely. But the evidence has yet to suggest, conclusively, that screwcaps will allow wines to age as gracefully as corks do.

Do you see that arrow on the screwcap? Apparently, Chinese wine producers don't trust that consumers have the good sense to twist the cap in the right direction. Counter-clockwise, follow the arrow you idiot!

DF

CSN Stores

La Cave de Fang is collaborating with CSN Stores to help you out with your Christmas shopping - yes, it truly is never too early to start. Founded in 2002, this is a group of over 200 online stores based in Boston, featuring all the cookware, furniture, toys, electronics, extra tall bar stools . . . everything upwardly mobile, North American yuppies could possibly desire.

So here's what's going to happen. I'm going to be your guinea pig. I will ensure that their products are top notch, that you're getting what you're paying for, that indeed, this is the premiere Christmas shopping destination. Please, check back soon.

CSN Facebook Page
CSN Twitter
CSN Blog

DF

Albacore

I don't have these strange cravings for sashimi . . . I've been to Tokyo enough times that I'm comfortable enough to say no to raw fish. Because that's exactly what it is - sashimi is rarely satisfying, and as interesting as the fish might be, what's the point if I have to go out for udon as soon as I leave the restaurant?

Now, after all that . . . it is rare to see a beautiful piece of albacore tuna being offered at my fishmonger's. Slightly frozen, thinly sliced, just a touch of the most amazing fresh wasabi, and a delicate, savoury soy sauce - yes, I'll make an exception. Buttery and creamy flavour, exquisite texture, oh yes, tuna is like no other. Enjoyed with a few glasses of Ontario riesling.

DF

2006 Savennières

2006 Domaine des Baumard Clos de Saint Yves, AC Savennières

The sort of estate level bottling for this producer, I didn't want to let my general apathy about chenin blanc to prevent me from tasting a Savennières - we see so little of this region in Ontario that any poor buying decisions most likely won't be repeated.

Not a bad wine again - but is it a crime for being boring? At these prices, I think there's a strong case that it is. Maybe I'm not giving these wines a fair chance, maybe they show better with more bottle age, whatever . . . or maybe they're just boring wines that only wine hipsters enjoy (because they're just sooo much cooler than anyone else).

DF

NV Anderson Valley

NV Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine, Anderson Valley

A Californian sparkling wine made by the famed Champagne house Roederer - very promising. Served blind, certainly conjures the spirit of Champagne, if but with a little more forward fruit. Very nice indeed, although I don't want to be paying nearly $30 for it, when a very satisfying crémant or Cava can be found hovering around $20.

Am I being picky? I adore sparkling wines, and if I had the budget, I'd be drinking a lot more Champagne. A lot, lot, lot more. Other sparkling wines are becoming more ambitious, and with that ambition, beginning to charge more, but this is the problem. Sparkling wines can be good, but none compare to Champagne. None. So if they're priced higher, and the inevitable comparisons are being made, they always disappoint. Now, an $18 Cava is an entirely different story, especially the wines that offer a very high level of quality at very reasonable prices. Different pleasure points in the brain, perhaps, but producers who charge high prices for their sparkling wines have to be careful and make sure that the wines offer something distinct. Poorly-imitated Champagne is no fun, doubly so when you need to pay $30+ for it.

DF

2007 Vouvray

2007 Domaine de Vaugondy Ph. Perdriaux, AC Vouvray

Chenin blanc is strange. A bit overrated, no? Everyone who fancies themself a wine drinker talks about how great it is, how versatile (look, it's as good as a dry wine as it is a sweet wine as it is sparkling!), how you cannot possibly have any taste if you don't appreciate it. I don't share the same enthusiasm. At least it's inexpensive. Dry vouvray under $25 is pretty much interchangeable with Muscadet, Alsace, pretty much any other nondescript, acidic French white. On par with riesling? You're out of your pea-sized mind.

Not a bad wine, certainly. But thin, acidic, lacking in character. Makes a beautiful cooking wine though.

DF

Tasting Niagara

So, another tasting trip to Niagara recorded in the tasting notebook. A very educational trip this time, expanding my understanding of the 2009 vintage, getting a glimpse of 2010, and gaining more insight into what works or not in Niagara. Highlights: the 2009 rieslings are stunning. Precise, austere, and aggressive, needing a long time in bottle. Syrah is going to be an important varietal in Niagara, as long as more producers are courageous enough to commit to it. The ones who make it are showing that intense, complex, and varietally-true syrahs can be made in Niagara that rival any cool-climate examples from the rest of the world . . . if only there was more courage. Until there is, we have to celebrate and support the few producers who are working hard for these wines. My dream is to see every single cabernet vine ripped out of Niagara, and replaced with syrah. One can dream, no?

Tasting at Thirty Bench Wine Makers
Tasting at Flat Rock Cellars
Tasting at Fielding Estate Winery

Finished the day off with a mad dash to Upper Canada Cheese, to pick up a hunk of their sublime Niagara Gold Guernsey Cow's milk cheese. Then, a 30 km sprint to Niagara on the Lake, to pick up raspberry jam at Greaves. Not for me - I'm pretty sure my mother would not let me back in her house if she knew I was in Niagara and didn't pick up her favourite jam. Early dinner at my favourite spot, Old Winery Restaurant. The spiced curry lentil soup was beautifully seasoned, although a bit gritty in texture. The Mediterranean pizza was so satisfying, with artichoke heart, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and feta cheese - crust perfectly thin and crispy. After a long day of tasting dozens of wines, the only thing suitable for dinner was a pint of Alexander Keith's India Pale Ale. The perfect pick-me-up for the long, congested drive back to Toronto.

DF

Tasting at Fielding Estate Winery

It's been a while since I've been to Fielding. I have one of their wines in my cellar - a 2006 riesling icewine I believe, one of those head-scratching purchases that you just can't explain. Not that it's a bad wine; if I recall, it was quite nice, balanced with good acidity, a rarity among Ontario icewines. I just don't have any experience with Fielding's wines, a good reason to pay another visit and taste. Hoped to taste the 2009's, as well as the 2010's. Some producers are more open to allowing you to taste barrel samples - this one was not. But that's fine, I'm not naive as to the reason why.

Beginning as always, with the whites. They have a Riesling Sparkling Brut, not vintage dated, but this is made entirely from 2009 grapes. I find these wines odd - riesling just doesn't seem as aromatic as a sparkling wine, doesn't have that lift or intensity. 2009 Riesling, much more successful, extracted and long. The 2008 Unoaked Chardonnay, made with 50% chardonnay musqué, was balanced, with good richness and nicely contrasting acidity. The 2009 Chardonnay is soft, and unfortunately, without character.

The red wines I tasted were certainly interesting. The 2008 Pinot Noir was intense, complex, and well-structured. 2007 Merlot, very interesting, one of the few Ontario merlots surprisingly more than just mediocre. Tight and structured, but already quite fine. And then we got to my favourite - the 2007 Syrah. I have high hopes for this varietal in Niagara, and this wine fits the exact profile of what I'm looking for. 2007 was a hot, dry vintage, and this wine reflects that with pure fruit, fine tannins, and incredible aromatics. Just a hint of white pepper underneath the fruit, but this needs a good 7-10 years to unwind. A great success - expensive, but a wonderful wine.

The philosophy behind this producer is unique - they're focused on making wines according to vintage conditions for each varietal. Therefore, you won't find, for example, a riesling every year. That's unique, and not necessarily something I agree with. A modern producer all around, making stylish wines that manages to yield a few surprises (a syrah!!!).

DF

Tasting at Flat Rock Cellars

Some of the finest people I've ever met, I've met during my tasting trips to Niagara. Always generous with their knowledge and wines, always welcoming and friendly. Gushing aside, onto the wines . . .

I'd been looking forward to visiting this producer for quite some time. Schedule never able to cooperate, but this Sunday was the perfect opportunity to visit Flat Rock Cellars, to taste through some of the 2009's (including some exciting new wines!) as well as the embryonic 2010's. A few things before I begin on the actual wines tasted. Not all the 2009's have been released yet - of the reds, I believe only the estate pinot noir is on the market. I know it's sexy for wine writers and bloggers to write about how they get to taste out of tank/barrel; it's certainly exciting for me as well to experience a wine in its developmental stages, but to write about them as if they were finished products is very misleading. In a sense, they aren't wines yet - not until they are bottled does one get a true sense of what they are, something to keep in mind the next time you read a tasting note from a barrel sample. And of course, with ego kept in check . . . it's all about the wines and the stories behind them, no?

A few exciting new wines being produced here, beginning with a new sparkling wine. There are actually two sparkling wines, the first being the one I tasted, the 2007 Riddled (with higher level of dosage), and the 2006 Brut. Both made from a traditional Champenoise blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, but in differing styles. The 2006 Brut, focused and bright, perhaps a bit more fruit and less of the autolysis character you find in Champagne, but nevertheless a very strong first effort. Both wines bottled under crown cap - this should be an interesting exercise to see how they age. A few new reserve wines also being released: a pinot noir as well as a 2008 Reserve Riesling, in which the winemaker's decided to do malolactic fermentation, an entirely unique process for riesling - unfortunately, I think he shouldn't have messed with a good thing. Changing the structure of the acidity completely robs the riesling of its character - a riesling without its racy acidity is like non-fat yogurt, and no fun for anyone. For a richer body, more weight, why not play with lees age, oak, something else . . . inducing malolactic was a mistake. Fortunately, the rest of the wines tasted were delicious, with lots of character. The 2009 Estate Riesling, bright with lots of energy and ripe fruit.

We headed downstairs to taste through some 2010 tank and barrel samples. As mentioned earlier, these tasting notes are of wines in its earliest stage, fledglings which have yet to truly resemble finished wines. Many of the wines tasted were barely finished (or still) fermenting. Therefore, I won't go into each specific sample tasted - rather, I'll attempt to frame the tasting notes in a broader sense, and give an indication of what to expect from this vintage. However, a few things are clear (or rather, unhazy). Beginning with . . .

The 2010 vintage is going to be an exciting one.

The wines are incredibly precise in varietal character. Chardonnays from all the various plots have beautiful ripe citrus flavours, showing creaminess but also a lovely acidity that picks up the dense minerality. Rieslings are in a more extracted style, with ripe fruit and electricity running through them all - instantly identifiable as wines coming from the Bench. Gewurztraminer, spicy with a lovely lychee element, textbook flavours for this varietal. The chardonnays that see oak will be interesting - this producer is playing with barrels sourced from various cooperages, the goal being to match the character of the wine with an appropriate cooper. A unique approach, which speaks to elevating a wine to the best of its inherent potential, instead of fashioning a wine to a specific taste profile. All the oak-aged chardonnays are showing good creaminess, texture, and balance, although these were harder to judge at this stage, the majority having just finished, or still undergoing, fermentation.

The pinot noirs are exciting as ever. Lovely ruby colours already, just luminous. Elegant, floral bouquets, complex and very fine indeed. Flat Rock always makes distinctive pinot noirs - looking forward very much to see these in bottle.

This producer has proven its ability to make consistent, charming wines in the past - these new wines are an exciting addition. Having spent some time here now, it's clear that something special is going on. Inspired winemaking is the key to success, regardless of where you're producing the wine. The winemaker here planted mustard and buckwheat in between the vines this past vintage, to introduce more nitrogen into the soil (alleviating the need for synthetic fertilizer), as well as to attract predatory insects (to combat pests). The team here is committed to using just screwcaps, hence the push to bottle one of the (very) few sparkling wines on the market under crown cap. And the idea is to tone back the use of new oak, using puncheons, and really matching the appropriate type of barrel to the kind of fruit each parcel is producing.

Inspired winemaking, all around.

DF

Tasting at Thirty Bench Wine Makers

I drove up, alone, to Niagara this past Sunday to get my first serious look at the 2009 vintage in the bottle. As you may recall, I was in Niagara during the 2009 harvest last October - I most recently tasted a few barrel samples this May. While the majority of red wines have yet to be bottled, the 2009 rieslings are mostly on the market.

My first stop was to Thirty Bench Wine Makers. A stunning producer of rieslings above all else - but they seem to enjoy telling everyone about everything but. A shame, because let's be honest, their vineyards, and winemaking team, were made for creating distinctive, terroir-specific rieslings. Austere with impeccable balance, with discernible character across all their vineyards, these rieslings are simply stunning in their purity, clarity, and luminosity.

Their estate level riesling, the 2009 Winemaker's Riesling is always quite developed in its minerality early on, creamy lanolin and citrus. High acid as always, but the fruit seems riper. Clean wine, that needs a good 3-5 years to come around. Onto the single vineyard rieslings. I always have a hard time choosing between Steel Post and Triangle Vineyard - each vintage seems to favour different vineyards. 2005 and 2006 were clear successes for Steel Post, but in 2007 and 2008, Triangle Vineyard showed better. Of course, this is how I judged them when they were just bottled - I can't yet determine a correlation between vintage conditions and each vineyard.

2009 Steel Post Riesling, shining in its minerality and high levels of extract on the palate. Very austere, extremely high acidity completely hiding the residual sugar, but balanced and very long. Will need at least 5 years, but this is very exciting. 2009 Triangle Vineyard Riesling, more fruit-forward at this point, lots of grapefruit and citrus. High acid, and at this point, still very primary. 2009 Wood Post Riesling, a bit fuller in body and rounder, and again, the fruit is obscuring all else.

Finished off the tasting with two other wines, just to gain a bigger picture of the rest of the white wines. 2008 Pinot Gris, made in a slightly sweet style, round, and very, very soft. You know, I never thought much about pinot gris - this wine certainly did not do much to change that opinion. 2008 Chardonnay, showing some overt oak at this point. The acidity shows as balanced, but soft - of course, this was after tasting the absolutely electric rieslings.

This tasting showed without a doubt how successful the rieslings are here. I won't go into specifics about why I think they make so many other white (and red) wines, instead of sticking exclusively to their strengths. I'm not naive - wine production isn't all romance, it's a business. But I do think Thirty Bench can do a much better job of promoting their range of rieslings. These are exciting, electric wines. Powerful too, a different style than the absolute finesse and precision of say, Mosel wines.

Always a pleasure to taste these wines. Slowly but surely, building my vertical. With a solid push, a surprise entry in some international riesling contest, more aggressive promoting, whatever . . . these wines speak for themselves, and all it takes is for the right critic/writer/trade professional to have a taste, for them to get the recognition they deserve.

DF

From Michael

A week after I returned, my guy from the Brooks Brothers at Liberty Plaza sent me a card - what a touch of class. And all I bought was a few cardigans and bow ties. Old school, all day, all day.

DF

Back from a day in Niagara

Spent the day tasting in Niagara today - beautiful day, time to take a closer look at some of the 2009 wines being released, as well as some of the baby 2010's. A very successful trip all around. More detailed analysis of each producer I visited later, and the wines tasted too . . .

DF

Four eyes

I'm going to wear glasses again. Was about to give up on finding frames that were proper to my face, but Brooks Brothers came through for me again. I don't know exactly why I like them so much - I guess that's why glasses are so hard to get right. Designers can try to convince you all they want about what you should be wearing, but more often than not, your face should be the one deciding. Having worn glasses since I was 8, I've kind of figured out what works for me. And of course, like that tie, like that shirt, like that suit . . . it just needs to feel right when you put it on.

My guy's working on it. I'm having Nikon lens made - they're thinner than other lenses, so I'm comforted by the fact that I won't look too much like a nerd. Not too much.

DF

So how many?

How many wines can one realistically taste in a single session?

That was the question posed by John Szabo, Master Sommelier in his latest Wine Align newsletter. He was referring to the LCBO product release tastings he participates in. Sir, if the workload is getting too strenuous for you . . . please, please get in touch with me, I know a Chinese blogger who'd love to relieve you of that burden.

But it's a good question. How many wines can a wine taster properly assess in one go, before the palate (or mind) starts to fail? It's not something one would readily admit - I'm hardly a professional and even I won't admit anywhere near the idea that my palate would be, oh shit, fallible. I suppose the answer is in experience. With experience, tasters know what to look for in any particular wine, provided that the wines aren't served blind. For example, identifying the obvious flavour profiles are important (red fruit, black fruit, etc.), but also the regional specifics (slate minerals in Mosel, tar and spice in Barolo), as well as vintage character (hot 2007 Ontario wines, lean 2008's). And that's where experience comes in. Because with experience, tasters know what to look for, in say, a lineup of Riojas. Or Volnay, or whatever. Instead of aimlessly swirling the wine around, trying to identify and pick out each specific flavour element, experienced tasters understand what to focus on for each wine region, style, vintage, and are able to quickly provide an accurate tasting note which is reflective of that specific wine/region/vintage/varietal. And of course, examining colour, balance, texture, and length are all crucial to a well-written tasting note.

So, how many wines until everything starts tasting the same? I'd say around 60, personally. I've done tastings where I start losing focus around this number (especially when young red Bordeaux is involved, or any other tannic wine). Spitting is essential, but after a few rounds, enough alcohol is absorbed through the palate membranes that things start becoming hazy. In a good way, mind you - there's nothing like chilling with a fun drunk at a proper (business attire only) tasting. But 55-60 wines is where I peg my palate as the upper limit, before I begin writing single word tasting notes (ie. Good. Bad. Horny).

Much practice is needed, to push this number up, for sure. Because I'm heading back up to Niagara this weekend, to taste through the 2009 vintage, as well as see how the baby 2010's are coming along. Fun, and I'll be sure to keep a bottle of sparkling water in the car.

DF

2004 Rioja

2004 López de Heredia Viña Cubillo Crianza, DOC Rioja

Oh how I love this estate, this wine, this region . . . all love, all love.

Continuing on a string of very strong releases, LCBO released another gem, from this revered Spanish producer. Light ruby colour, so aromatic, so distinct of time and place - the absolute epitome of what terroir is. Briary red fruits, finely integrated oak, great length. Lean, but perfect in balance and texture.

As perfect of a wine experience as I could hope for. I was imagining drinking this with tapas. Grilled seafood or something. What a special wine.

DF

2001 Rioja

2001 Medrano-Irazu Gran Reserva, DOC Rioja

Back to what I'm so comfortable with, like hot water and epsom salts after a brutal workout. Fall weather, kind of stressed, eating mushrooms . . . a few glasses of Gran Reserva Rioja sounded perfect. All the bright colour of traditional Rioja, with that wonderful interplay of ripe red berries and vanilla that makes Spanish reds so special. Wonderful texture, good length, a delicious wine all around.

What is it about some wines and oak? The different sides regarding oak use are pretty clear by now . . . like many things, I think it can be very misguided to go to extremes. Some wines need oak. Some need it to take it to another level, and Rioja (and Ribera del Duero) is certainly one of those wines. Tempranillo just somehow does so much better with that subtle injection of flavour, structure, and oxidation of oak, and this wine proves it. Usually, vanilla in wine is horrifying - not in this case. Keep an open mind.

DF

Outlook

You know, lost amidst all the foie gras and red Burgundy and fried cuttlefish, I failed to mention that I had spent an entire extended weekend in America. And I found Americans to be delightful. Despite what I was expecting, the Americans I met were nothing but polite, kind, and pleasant. No way will you receive the same reception in Shanghai. Not that my people are pricks . . . at least not on purpose.

I think I kind of like Americans now. My father, at dinner, tirades every night about how evil Americans are because of their constant pressure to the Chinese to revalue the RMB. Not that it has anything to do with him. Not that he at all understands the actual issue at hand - not when he thinks of Chinese gossip forums as sources of legitimate news. And he mocks me for reading the New York Times everyday. Right. Listen, I'm as big of a Chinaman as you'll find, but you have to get your news from multiple sources to really understand the issue. An important lesson I learned from one of my 4th year Economics professors. The news is only as complete as what the editor wants printed, and it's delusional to think that any one source presents an accurate picture.

Exciting things coming up, planning another trip up to Niagara - let's see how the 2009's are doing, and check up on teh fledgling 2010 vintage.

DF

Mismatched, like Harry

Oh how I feel like such a weight has been lifted . . . now we wait.

In the meantime, look at how beautiful my new cufflinks are. What do I love the most about them? They don't match. The colours of the stripes are different - and one say Paul, the other, Smith. I met the great Harry Rosen a few years ago, when he gave a lecture at the University of Waterloo. One of his trademarks is always to wear separate cufflinks. I like that about the man. Because it's a personal detail that only he really knows - unless you look really, really closely at his wrists.

Mismatched, like Harry.

DF

Loop and pull

I love bow ties. Sadly, there aren't many occasions to wear one, without looking like a completely affected jackass. But I still love bow ties. From Brooks Brothers. I don't have a label I fixate one for neckwear, but I usually avoid Brooks Brothers. Don't like rep ties, I'm not American, not WASP, not the son of a senator. But the way they craft the neck size on this example is very interesting. Bow ties come with adjustable lengths, for different neck sizes. I'm kind of in an awkward place about 14 and 3/4 but this one actually accommodates that. They use a hook that faces in, and increments of 1/4 - you can adjust the tie length anywhere from 13 to 18, I believe. Very interesting - I have bow ties which use buttons for adjusting, but this hook is more accurate.

Now. I need an occasion to wear it. Anyone getting married soon?

DF

1998 Loupiac

1998 Château Loupiac-Gaudiet, AC Loupiac

I thought understanding Bordeaux was fairly straightforward. You know, Classification of 1855, 61 chateaux, left bank/right bank, Parker . . . and then I see a bottle of Loupiac. What? A botrytised sweet wine, much like Sauternes, completely unknown??!!

So, Loupiac is on the north bank of the Garonne river, situated across from its vastly more important neighbours, Sauternes and Barsac. You know, when LCBO gets these releases right, they're really right. Older sweet wines, please, keep them coming. A blend of 95% semillon, 5% sauvignon, it doesn't have that deep colour you normally associate with sweet white Bordeaux. Very fragrant, all ripe fruit, balanced, spicy botrytis - concentrated yet subtle, quite a departure from those incredibly intense, often cloying examples from Sauternes. Leaner in the palate, perfectly balanced sweetness. You can tell this is not as concentrated as its more famous siblings, but as a drinking wine, this is very, very delicious.

Very interesting to drink . . . and learned something new!

DF

For driving

I already have a pair of driving gloves. Why does everyone need a pair? And why do I need two? Because when you see beautiful calf skin gloves with a classic clasp, you go for it. You try gripping a freezing steering wheel in the middle of a Canadian winter.

DF

L.B. Evans Aristocrat Opera

L.B. Evans was a shoe shop opened in 1804 in South Reading by the Evans brothers, who started off not making the entire shoe, but the uppers, counters, soles, and heels. The tradition continues today of crafting fine leather footwear for the discerning gentleman. Aspiring as such, I bought a pair of leather slippers in New York. They are incredibly comfortable, but I don't dare wear them while I'm cooking. A single, stray drop of oil . . . that's all it takes.

DF

Count backwards from 10

I've started sharpening my own knives. I don't get why I was so hesitant to do so in the past -rather than pay for someone else to handle my blades, it just makes sense to do it yourself. And I like my knives sharp. Please send me any sharpening tips you have - I really don't want to trial and error this kind of thing.

DF

2008 Bekaa Valley

2008 Musar Jeune, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon

Back to Lebanon. You know, for all their claims as being the cradle of wine, how come the only producers we hear coming out of here is Musar? So Lebanon has one global superstar wine estate and a bunch of part-timers?

Anyways, the second wine of Musar, blend of cabernet, cinsault, and syrah. Musar's first label wine is well, kind of rare and expensive, so hopefully I'm able to get an idea of its personality in this wine. I'm looking for a fresh wine, but with that famous Musar structure and backbone. Fascinating to be tasting wines from regions I have virtually no experience with, from cultures I've never encountered. Will I get a sense of what Musar is, what Lebanon is?

I was crushed on the first taste. Candied, confected fruit, cheap smelling, glorified Yellowtail, except at 3 times the cost. Shocking, and if this is people's first impression of Musar, they should be concerned. They make serious wine in Lebanon, don't they?

DF

女儿红八年绍兴酒

This is crab season, have to keep drinking Shaoxing wine, one of the great food/wine pairings of Chinese cuisine. This example, not so great - at least not as great as the story behind its name. 女儿红, or Red Daughter, in reference to the varietal of Shaoxing wine. What my ancestors in Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces would do (centuries ago) was bury huge earthen jars of this wine upon the birth of their daughters. The plan was to unearth the jars to drink at their marriage - thus giving birth to its name (red is an auspicious colour in Chinese tradition).

This particular wine, aged 8 years, is awful. So awful I don't even want to find out exactly who produces it. Obvious signs of a heavy syrup used in its production, skanky in flavour and aroma. Took a sip and used the rest for cooking.

DF

Catnap

This is my cat, and I love him dearly. He dozes out on the lawn, but whenever he sees me, he saunters over to have some snuggle time. And every time, I'm tempted to scoop him up and take him home with me. But I think that amounts to pretty much kidnapping. Catnapping?

DF

For fall

Toronto's cooling down, big time, and what better to warm my ass up than digging out some older wines. Something softened by bottle age, warm, and friendly - white or red, it matters not. Old Rioja, Bordeaux, red Burgundy . . . old Sauternes, riesling, white Burgundy. Yes, yes, and yes . . . like the warm embrace of a silky-skinned, long-legged beauty. Delightful.

---

Municipal election voting tonight, made my choice of who I want Toronto's next mayor to be. But somehow I have a feeling things are going to go horribly wrong. Voting took place in my old elementary school gym, a bit unsettling, and it would have been so creepy if I started wandering the halls.

DF

Just do it man

I need to go on vacation. A real vacation. One where I don't have to do shit I don't want to do, go to places I don't want to go to, and eat and drink myself stupid. Literally, drink myself until I start speaking fluent French. Not saying that New York wasn't fun, but I'm going to Paris. Or Barcelona. Either one is fine. Just do it man.

DF

Fall tasting menu at Craft Restaurant

Last night in New York, and as it was fall, season of freshly harvested treasures, one would hope to see fresh root vegetables, wild mushrooms, and oh Dios mío, game . . . perhaps I was over-thinking it, because I saw none of those things at my last dinner in the city.

Reservation for Craft Restaurant, by Union Square, the flagship restaurant of one of America's most celebrated chefs, Tom Colicchio. Wall decor is a mess, but you're not there to stare at the walls - fixtures are nice though, dimly lit, exposed lightbulbs. Nice wood tables, no fussy table cloths, comfortable chairs. And finally, servers that are dressed properly, no idiot penguin uniforms. Arrived early, so sat down at the bar for a Victory Pilsner from Pennsylvania first. Right. I was there for the fall tasting menu, so ordering was simple. Wine, a red Burgundy of course.

Yeah, the food was confusing. Intellectual, perhaps, but there's always that danger of a chef over-thinking the menu, and trying to take the ingredients in a direction they shouldn't be headed. Fall, right, so I had expectations of what was in season. First 3 courses, a strange combination of Japanese ingredients, using French techniques - sublime cooking work, but flavours just don't work. A hamachi sashimi, the most amazing, perfect fish, but ruined by a sprinkle of salt - it's served with a preserved plum purée (already well-seasoned), and the added salt obliterates the delicate sweetness of the hamachi. Next, a stuffed zucchini blossom, fried as a tempura. A bit too rich, at this point of the meal. Third course was wonderful, a pan-seared suzuki fish, just so buttery and tender - cooked to absolute perfection. The only course that made me sit up and left me speechless. A thick fish, it's so difficult to cook, but the skin was perfectly crisp, the centre cooked all the way through. It's so clichéd to say that something melts in your mouth, but this fish literally dissolved on the palate. Overall, impressed with the starter courses. Not so much with the following proteins.

The duck, overseasoned, too rich. Yes, it's possible to overdo a dish, just like you can overdo a wine - the sauce is just so concentrated, so extracted it sticks in the throat. Suckling pig course was the most unsatisfactory course of them all - can't tell which cut of the pork used, doesn't show off the tenderness of this kind of pig, and again, the sauce is so thick it literally dries in the throat before it manages to trickle down. Dessert was nice though - the celery juice/lime sorbet soda served in a shot glass was a perfect complement to the creamy, rich panna cotta. Cocoa crêpes with a assam tea ice cream, a nice end to the meal.

The wine, a 2003 Louis Boillot Les Brouillards, AC Volnay 1er Cru. Nicely matched both the fish and meat courses. High acid tends to do that. The fruit gets purer, finer with air, long finish, mineral and linear. If I could drink Volnay more often, I'd be very happy indeed.

I wasn't disappointed with the meal, that's not the impression I want to share - it was a great experience being surprised as to what the next course was going to be. Overall though, over-seasoned courses was an issue, as was a propensity to over-concentrate many of the sauces. Service was wonderful, attentive yet very discreet. And look, they give you cupcakes on the way out.

DF

2008 Mosel at Terroir Tribeca

2008 Erben von Beulwitz Riesling Kabinett, QmP Kaseler Nies'chen, Mosel

In my planning for eating in New York, my first thought went to Terroir Tribeca. Sort of the mecca for German riesling lovers, a wine bar above all others. I wanted my Sunday to be about nothing but wine, with stops at 3 wine bars and at least one wine shop planned, but alas, when you're not on a (solo) vacation, things never work out as hoped.

Dropping in after an exhausting morning, thirsty and hungry, riesling was my oasis in the desert. The wine menu is long, and in this blogger's opinion, clumsily written in hipster talk - but it's the wine that matters, and this is where the proprietor excels. Very comprehensive selection of German rieslings, and I had a long discussion with our server about the wine I was looking for. Unfortunately, not as many older rieslings as I had hoped, so I narrowed on 2008. As vintages go, 2007 is universally praised as fantastic, but at this point, still far too young. The austerity is something to watch out for, in contrast to 2008, which is showing much riper and purer fruit at this point. As well, I wanted a natural wine, and as it turned out, there were 2 rieslings to choose from. The 2008 Erben von Beulwitz Kabinett, my choice.

Delicious like nothing else, pungent, oily minerality, beautifully ripe citrus, an ethereally long, mineral-tinged finish - served at a nice temperature too (cool, not chilled). An appetite for brunch. The calamari salad, acidic but very fresh. Charcuterie platter was stunning, especially with the wine. Likewise the duck proscuitto sandwich, toasted perfectly. Prices fairly high, but the wine is nicely priced.

Terroir Tribeca, definitely as good as advertised, although more older vintages would be nice to see. Riesling, my love has never been stronger.

DF

2004 Santenay 1er Cru

2004 Domaine Nicolas Potel Clos Rousseau, AC Santenay 1er Cru

Sitting in the dining room of Café Boulud, it was time to order the wine. Cue the slick sommelier, who quickly floated over - very professional, very calm, very impressive. They take your order, show you the bottle, and open it away from the table. I suspect they have a discreet taste first, so when they meet idiots who insist a healthy bottle is flawed, they won't have to be ungraceful and taste in front of the customer.

I was in the mood for red Burgundy. Eating rustic French country food, it only made sense to drink a rustic French country wine. From Santenay, a rustic, wild wine, lots of character, but somehow I feel like I should have asked for a decanter. With the earthiness of the mushrooms, fantastic. With the more delicate foie gras, less so. But with that wild venison loin, a dream. Develops a pure core of red fruit, but that rusticity is primary - I believe the French refer to it as chicken coop. Certainly pleasant with the food, but any more complimenting would be delusional.

DF

Revelling in Café Boulud

I'm a simple man - I like to eat. I refuse to vacation in places without a food culture because, well, you can lie on a beach for a week anywhere, but eating a properly cooked foie gras chaud? Not so much. I have a hideous disgust for people who take photos of each course before they eat - please, it's tacky and disrespectful. No one gives a shit because really, it's not about the food. You posting all these photos up is all about how much taste you have, yes, I'm so mature and cultured, look at my fabulous wining and dining hobby. Keep that nonsense at home, please don't bring it into a restaurant. Not a proper one anyways. And despite what you might think, all-inclusive resort food is shit.

Fate was on my side - the Michelin Guide was just released for New York City on October 6, a few days before I arrived. And my reservation? For Café Boulud, part of Daniel Boulud's empire of restaurants and owner of one beautiful, shiny Michelin star. Lovely. Got dressed; burgundy dinner jacket, slacks, silk handkerchief . . . yes, DF was ready to eat.

On the Upper East Side, the dining room is elegant, certainly with a polished, upscale feel completely unbefitting what the name implies. Very French, in that luxe, calme et volupté manner. Handed over to Gavin Kaysen, the menu combines seasonal ingredients and classic French country cuisine, with a surprising international section on the menu . . . undecided how I feel about that, sitting in a Frenchman's restaurant.

I went straight for the seared foie gras to start. Served with what seems like poached pear, it is, in a word, exquisite. Wow. Also began with a butternut squash soup (silky like nothing else), and a velouté of mushrooms (intensely earthy). Next, on to a pan-seared venison, cooked perfectly medium-rare and utterly, utterly delicious. Served with shaved truffle, this was a dream. Vermont rabbit was so inspiring, perfect in flavour and texture. Cooked a few ways - ribs were seared and loin was cooked as a Wellington. I learned what proper rabbit meat can taste like - so light, so fragrant, like eating the most amazingly perfumed, silky meat. Pan-seared flounder was cooked perfectly as well, flaking right onto the fork.

What an amazing meal. Perfectly cooked, seasoned, and presented food, the chef clearly respects the ingredients - everything's in season, with all the elements are in balance. The wine I ordered, coming up. Service was professional, very slick. I lucked out - the next table was having the truffles course - the most amazing white truffles, shaved over a simple pasta. As it hit the heat and the oils were released, a stunningly rich, earthy aroma came wafting over - I stopped eating for a minute to lose myself. Amazing

Might not hold as importance in North America, but yes, I'm convinced more than ever that earning a Michelin star means something. Will be coming back, hungry for more.

DF

Jamón ibérico

Not a sinister device of the Inquisition - merely the most amazing cured meat in the world. Jamón ibérico enjoyed, immensely, at Casa Mono. They carve a plate for you, in front of you. Was it bad that I wanted to jump on the bar and just start chewing on it?

DF

NV Cava

NV Codorníu Brut Rosado, Cava

Thirsty and famished after a long morning of walking, I plopped down on Casa Mono's bar and lusted for a sparkling wine. Yes, a 100% pinot noir Cava, sharing the same Catalan heritage as the cuisine served. So refreshing, so delicious - bright red berries, minerally and intense. Finely textured, just delicious with our seafood, and especially with our ethereal jamón ibérico. Great length, and not surprisingly, I drank most of the bottle. Wandered back downtown full, a bit tipsy, and very, very happy.

DF

Gorging at Casa Mono

It's been a while since I've been to a restaurant that's been absolutely inspiring, where every single course was a lesson in how emotional food can be. Casa Mono, in Gramercy Park, where we dropped in for lunch after an exhausting morning spent on 5th Avenue. I hate being forced to go shopping because that's what you're supposed to do in New York.

This is opened by Andy Nussar, Mario Batali, and Joe Bastianich - quite a small, cozy little dining room, with only a few tables, bar, and an open kitchen. We didn't have reservations, so we sat at the bar, which actually enhanced the dining experience. The tapas was extraordinary, from the fried sardines, to the grilled cuttlefish, to the baby octopus. The incredible pork face torchon sandwich, with Spanish hot peppers (name of exact variety escapes me). And of course, the reason I wanted to go, a plate of the most amazing jamón ibérico. My goodness, just silky, rich, and so intense, perfect in flavour and texture. Mind-blowing, inspired cooking that's suddenly become all too rare. And my goodness, the stunning simplicity of the dishes . . . just proper, authentic tapas with fresh ingredients, and cooked to perfection. Staff was attentive, professional, very helpful with the menu written entirely in Spanish.

A real treasure, a real find for me . . . eagerly awaiting my next visit.

DF

Long live the World Trade

My hotel was a block south of the World Trade Center in lower Manhattan. Wasn't able to go up to the observation deck set up, but certainly got a sense of how massive the space is. Building furiously, the plan is to be completed by the 10th anniversary.

DF

Brooklyn Lager

Being hungry and thirsty, I went for beer to accompany our dinner at The Place Restaurant. A few bottles of Brooklyn Lager, a traditionally made beer that was stunning. One of the finest beers I've drank, period, and it's been a week, so I'm not suffering from the vacation glow. Nice deep amber colour, very fragrant, beautifully hoppy and round. Just delicious. And served in proper, manly glasses - we talked about which vessel you should be drinking beer out of a few weeks ago. It would be a crime to drink this one out of bottle.

DF

Eating at The Place Restaurant

Dinner the first evening was like a treasure hunt. Fresh off the utter nut-dragger that was the United Nations, I was famished. And when I get hungry, the only words I can manage are BEEF. RARE!!!

We wandered to the Village, where I spotted this quaint, charming little place - and of course, it was called The Place Restaurant. Cozy little spot, nicely decorated, very Mediterranean feel. Food was good, not spectacular. Let me explain why.

Sharing appetizers, we began with an endive and chicory salad, fresh but unfortunately blandly dressed. The wild mushrooms were nice, although you couldn't distinguish which types of (presumably) wild mushrooms were in the dish. I devoured my hanger steak, slightly charred, dry on the inside. Served with spinach and nice potatoes. We also had a pan seared Atlantic cod (overcooked to a crisp), and duck breast, a bit too firm. Ordered an American beer for dinner. But I'm sounding like we didn't enjoy the meal - we did, but execution could have been better. We were eating quite early though. Great atmosphere, attentive staff - certainly a charming little restaurant that cooks good, not great bistro food.

DF

Bulldog bum

I loved walking around New York. This was the Lower East Side. Weather was just stunning, perfect temperature and lovely sunshine all weekend. So many people walking their dogs. I just want to pet your fat furry bum.

Right, the drive down. It was as horrendous as I had imagined. We left in the middle of the night Thursday, with the plan being to arrive in the city mid-morning. Didn't turn out that way because someone was being childish and insisted on stopping multiple times to find fast food restaurants. Idiot. The highlight of the drive? Besides me almost falling asleep and drifting across the lanes? Passing through Scranton, Pennsylvania, and giggling at the signs for the coal mine tour and the Anthracite Museum. Don't get it? Too bad.

We made it alive though, and intact. Coming next - the food!

DF

Moping at the United Nations

My first day spent in New York, after a 10 hour drive, at the headquarters of the United Nations. What a monumental waste of time. Our guide was pretty enough, all legs and sexy Eastern European accent, but damn, the building was shabby, crowds were all stamped from the same bad tourist mold, and the General Assembly Hall is hardly as impressive as you'd imagine. And I had to pay for the tour!!

Don't do it. My goodness, don't go.

DF

A weekend in New York

Back from a weekend in New York City, all smokers, sirens and scaffolding. New York was, surprisingly, life changing. Culinary-wise, of course, it's not I came back a Hindu. Due to (foreseen) circumstances, I wasn't able to explore the wine scene and restaurants as much as planned, but the ones I went to were mind blowing. Like, I was hyperventilating and gesticulating wildly out my seat kind of mind blowing. Pure pleasure in my mouth.

The rest of the time? Spent in tourist purgatory, just horrible, horrible. Does New York have to be synonymous with shopping? I walked around 5th Ave. in black jeans and converse, what makes these guys think that I would consider a (beautiful) $1900 overcoat? But I did get some fun little old man things. Leather slippers, cuff links . . . old man stuff.

Will elaborate later, the highlight being our meals. Oh, and the wine. I drank like it was free.

DF

To New York I go!

I'm leaving for New York tonight. Thanksgiving weekend in Canada, and I'm going to spend 4 glorious days in the greatest city in America drinking and eating myself silly. I don't call this a vacation because it isn't. I like to think of it as a culinary tour, to see NYC's wine scene, to experience the extraordinary restaurants . . . planning on being very reckless indeed with the wine list. And really, who gives a shit about seeing the Statue of Liberty?

So cheers, mes amis, to a great Thanksgiving. I sincerely wish everyone a happy weekend of mirth and excessive drinking.

DF

1995 Mosel

1995 P.S. Bäumler Becker-Erben Riesling Auslese, QmP Wehlener Sonnenuhr

Back to what I love so much - Mosel. I have a bit of experience with this wine. I drank a bottle last year, and the intention was to hold onto my remaining ones for a while longer, but alas, the siren call of mature riesling shattered that idea. I dropped the bottle in an ice bath a few hours before dinner, because I knew that this producer still hand-glued their labels, which would cleanly slide off with water - I take a perverse delight in drinking out of label-less bottles. If only I could convince my buddies in Niagara to sell me their wines without the label . . . how fun would that make my dinners?!!

I love this wine. Infinitely sad and depressing to hear that they are closing, because the younger generation of the family has little interest in continuing the legacy. Sigh. It was just slightly chilled as I was serving it, with a bright golden colour, all shiny and saturated. Bouquet is extraordinary, booming with rich cream and petrol, musky minerality and stewed apples. The epitome of what riesling can achieve with bottle age, forceful and vigorous, with more fruit showing on the palate. Refined sweetness, elegant, but the acidity is a bit tired. Finishes long and minerally, a passionate kiss of mature auslesen sensuality. Shivering just thinking about it.

DF

2007 Twenty Mile Bench

2007 Flat Rock Cellars Riddled Sparkling, VQA Twenty Mile Bench

Wow, zomg, a vintage dated Niagara sparkling wine, from who else but Flat Rock?!!!! Bottled under crown cap, this opens softly without drama, the wine pouring fizzy with a fine mousse. Good yeasty citrus on the nose, creamy, and a good approximation of a decent nonvintage Champagne. Palate is rich, with green apple and citrus, round and full, but at this point, the dosage is sticking out like a hernia. Needs time to integrate, but will this be an interesting one in a few years time?

Exciting. I guess I need to make an appointment to head over to Flat Rock and nose around a bit, see what's been going on. A very ambitious project, but one that I think will do well - I've always believed that these chardonnay/pinot noir sparkling wine blends can be successful in Niagara, but the key of course is the viticulture and I think the price. I don't normally comment about wine price, but at about $25, it isn't an inexpensive proposition. You can find an awful lot of delicious crémant and cava wines at under $20, if that is the audience you are going after. Sure, the $20-30 range is still lower than any kind of Champagne, but if you're going after those wines, then your bottle better match up favourably. Maybe bottle age will reveal more complexity, but at this point, it is this wine drinker's opinion that the producer still needs a few more vintages worth of experience to really understand sparkling wine. Hopefully some of those questions will be answered on my next trip.

DF

Chilly

I'm tired, I had a long day, stuck in the TTC once again on my way home. Some things never change. I'm putting off on writing about the aforementioned Flat Rock until at least tomorrow. Freezing outside, I really need a trenchcoat or something because running out in just a suit isn't going to do it. Early to bed tonight (yes, earlier than usual), need to get through this week one way or another.

DF

Bottled under what?!

Hey, did you know that Flat Rock Cellars' new wine, a sparkling wine, is bottled under crown cap? Yeah, just like how the vast majority of méthode traditionnelle producers bottle their wines during the aging and riddling process. Very, very interesting, and Flat Rock apparently had to go through a few hurdles before being allowed to use this type of closure. Yes, the provincial fascists in charge of liquor production in Ontario deem it necessary to regulate how producers bottle their own wines.

Like Stelvin closures, this type of cap eliminates any danger of cork failure or TCA, but unfortunately, it does take away the indescribable pleasure and satisfaction of hearing the bottle pop as you open it. Not even a content sigh, just a mute little hiss - at least the wine was delicious. More, later.

DF

2007 Chinon

2007 Couly-Dutheil La Coulée Automnale, AC Chinon

I like this producer very much. We see too little Chinon here in Toronto - the reasons are obvious, no? It's sad that rustic, honest, terroir-expressive wines can't find a market, because people would much rather drink any cheap bulk South American plonk. These, of course, being the same people that self-righteously proclaim themselves as having taste, ignorant to the fact that latching onto the latest wine trends is indeed great insecurity. Yes, to all the idiots who talk of Fuzion malbec as the best wine ever produced (how dare you dismiss a sub-$8 wine!!), apologies, but your palate must be located in your ass.

Oops.

I like Couly-Dutheil. This, I suppose, is the most humble cuvée they produce - 100% cabernet franc, aged all in stainless steel. Nice red colour, with that unmistakable cabernet franc bouquet of vegetal red fruits. Fine tannins, round and pure, a good simple wine.

DF

Governor General David Johnston

Our David Johnston was installed as Canada's 28th Governor General today. I'm so happy for him and his family . . . the country is lucky to have him. You inspire us all, sir.

DF