The first floor of the China National Pavilion is occupied by the Joint Provincial Pavilions. All wonderfully designed with the cultural influences of each region, we're able to tour the entire country in one sweep. Here, we see AnHui Province, showing its contribution to traditional Chinese architecture.
DFWednesday, May 19, 2010
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Red beamed and strong
The China National Pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai World Exposition. So grand, so beautiful. It's one of those rare structures that captivate you once you see it in person. Wait until you see the details.
DF
The EXPO Bus
Showing a bit of welcome technology - fuel-cell powered buses at the Expo. They circle around the compound, and as you can see, are put to good use. When they stop at each station, the bar on the roof of the bus rises to connect with the rails you see on each bus stop, on the upper left corner. I have no idea what that accomplishes, but it is so very cool to watch.
DFPorterhouse Pub
Found a pub right in the middle of the European area of the 2010 World Expo called Porterhouse Pub. Irish all around - people working behind the bar were mostly from Dublin, with a few locals. Nicely renovated, very cozy, I'd be very happy if I could find a place like this in Toronto. First time we went in, it was absolutely stuffed...no way you were finding a seat. Second time, around 3pm, after 5 hours of wandering around the Expo on an empty stomach, we finally found 2 spaces by the bar. Of course, starving, I ordered a Leffe Brune, a dark ale from this well known Belgian brewer. And it was wonderful. So were the chicken wings and chocolate mousse cake. Because as much as I wanted, I wasn't about to pay 200 RMB for fish and chips.
DFDrip, drip, drip
This is what happens when aesthetics take over function, completely. I know the designers wanted these umbrellas to look pretty, but did it ever occur to any of them that the first (and most important) obligaton of an umbrella is to keep the rain out? Huh? Curved both ways like a UFO, with a hole in the middle, constructed in a porous, translucent material. The water not only comes in through the centre hole and fabric, the design of the thing ensures that water droplets roll over the edge, and continue coming along the bottom piece.
The result? Everyone sitting underneath is soaked with the dripping water. I was miserable. Because of the construction, we weren't able to go into any of the international pavilions. The restaurants were jam packed and quite literally out of food. The wind was blowing and I was battling an especially nasty cold. And we didn't bring umbrellas.
I hope the idiots who designed these have been dealt with. You know, just finished.
DFMonday, May 17, 2010
Sawdust and grind
Everywhere we looked, there was construction still ongoing at the 2010 World Expo. Of course, we were there on the first day publicly opened, April 20. Hopefully, things have been wrapped up. No one was too upset that I was running around, shooting these photos. At the time, the work that still needed to be done seemed extensive. I've got a few friends that will be visiting in a few weeks - will wait to hear from them about the state of the pavilions.
DFA familiar sight
And here we are, at the Canada Pavilion. Not exactly architecturally stunning, but at least it's a step up from the suburban mall that is the U.S.A. Pavilion. Seeing that red, those big letters, that almost maple leaf like motif in the wood panelling - yeah, I was a bit emotional.
DFLined up and dripping
Bizarre oil paintings in front of the France Pavilion, at the 2010 World Expo, just bizare. Maybe unintended, but it appeared as if the rain was causing the paintings to drip. The faces look almost horrifying up close, as if just oozing from decay and rot.
DFGuarded and green
Outside the France Pavilion. The interior is said to recreate an atmosphere in the grand tradition of the gardens of Versailles. Too bad. I was hoping for one huge winefest. And maybe Sophie Marceau inside.
DFSunday, May 16, 2010
City square
Inside the China Urban Civilizations Pavilion, at the 2010 World Expo. Yet another immersive digital environment, showing scenes from ancient Rome, China......an extraordinary installation. If not for the occasional flashlights going off, and the obnoxious tourist-types - I would have really thought myself in the middle of 5th century China. We were in the courtyard of a grand old home. There were even a few servants gossiping in the corner, as the sun set, shadowing over all the ornate roof tiles.
DFSaturday, May 15, 2010
Reflector, here!
A handsome couple doing their engagement shoot, at the 2010 World Expo, in front of the Spain Pavilion. She was very pretty, tall, statuesque. The groom? I think it's a bit tired to still be emulating HK movie idols. But she makes up for it, all legs and skinny shoulders.
DFFriday, May 14, 2010
In trenches and piping
Again, in the China State Grid Pavilion, we see the employees dressed well - classic trench coats on green trousers for the ushers, green blazers with white piping on white trousers for others. Classic looks, very sharp, great looking. Now, who was it that said the Chinese can't get their act together, fashion-wise? This is what happens when you hold events in Shanghai. Cosmopolitanism was invented here.
DFThursday, May 13, 2010
Arcs and flashes
Inside China's State Grid Pavilion at the 2010 World Expo, we're treated to a 3-D show. You're encased into this large room, wall to wall screens, and enough sound blasted at you to deafen for a good 15 minutes. A completely emersed experience. The room was spinning for me - just all lights and graphics. Beautiful, and an incredible display of 3-D technology. My knees were weak and this time, it wasn't because of the girls.
DFRed cosmos
Entering China's Space Pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai World Expo, you take an escalator up. Tilt your head, and you see this gigantic LCD screen hovering right above you, displaying our own man in space. Yes, we're sending shivers up America's spine. China is in space, with our own technology and resources - inside, there were even exhibits showing off a proposed reusable spacecraft. With the U.S. space shuttles retiring soon and the Soviet space program non-existent, who's going to fill the void? A bunch of sandal wearing call centre reps launching out of Sriharikota? I think not.
DFBrightly paved
The Expo compound is ringed by these raised walkways. Beautifully built white umbrellas, clear maps, really giving you an elevated view of the entire area. Only shame is the colour of the pavement. The white is so reflective that I couldn't open my eyes - the glare was blinding, even on a cloudy day. Making these sacrifices in the name of aesthetics?
I should have realized how vain the Shanghainese are. I am one, after all.
DFSave the Mosel!
So here's what you have to do - sign this petition. It's a last effort to preserve this pristine part of the wine kingdom, and we need 10,000 signatures. I'm signature no. 5073 - we still have some way to go. The petition number is 10681, and the Hauptpetent is Reis, Elisabeth.
Please, especially for the friends I've opened bottles for.......this is the least you can do. Click the link, follow the idiot-proof instructions, and help save the Mosel. If this monster really gets built, and we lose some of the truly great wines of the world - I don't know what I'll do with myself.
Just to remind myself of what's at stake:
1995 P.S. Baumler Becker-Erben
2003 Dr. Fischer
2004 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
2003 Geltz-Zilliken
DF
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Like cattle
The inevitable crushing lines at the World Expo, compounded by newly-trained security personnel. In line for 50 minutes, and this was hardly the busiest entrance - a more experienced group would have gotten everyone screened and inside the compound in no more than 15 minutes.
DFOn guard
Stepping out of the Shanghai Metro, this is what you first see. Two guardsmen, watching everyone entering and exiting the station. Over the 3 weeks that I was in Shanghai, I never actually saw them stop anyone for questioning. Then again, these Uighur troublemakers we hear about know better than to attempt something here.
A not so subtle reminder that you're always being watched. It wasn't until I reviewed the photos that I noticed the young man staring right at me. Good thing then, that I had quickly walked away. And good that they were only packing papper spray, instead of those 20 gauge pump-action shotguns I saw a few security personnel carrying.
DFOn the belt, now
I was not expecting this. The first time stepping into the Shanghai Metro, a jarring reminder of the heightened security around the whole city. Everyone's bag had to go through an x-ray, just like at the airport. Everyone. With an already busy subway system, you can imagine the delays this causes. But as I wrote earlier, the Shanghainese are enduring, cooperating to make sure that the Expo runs without blemish. And they allowed me to bring a pair of new kitchen shears I had bought into the station.
DFTuesday, May 11, 2010
2010 Shanghai World Exposition
Here we go, my Expo photos are ready. A historic event, the first time that the World Exposition has been hosted by a developing nation. The great city of Shanghai has been preparing for the past 9 years, spending billions. Her citizens have quietly endured the construction, the traffic restrictions, the constant media attention. But I have no doubt that this will be a stunning 6 months. The Expo has changed Shanghai forever, and I'm thankful that I was able to witness it from the start.
The official opening was on May 1, but through a bit of luck and generosity, I was able to get my hands on 2 preview tickets on April 20, the very first day it was opened to the public. Spent hours walking through the enormous compound on both sides of the river. Those stories, coming up next.
DFMonday, May 10, 2010
Louis Vuitton, en Chine
A block west of JingAn Shi, a new Louis Vuitton store being built. There's a trend going on, where these stores are modeled after the branded packaging issued by each label - Tiffany & Co. resembling a giant blue box with a white ribbon top, Louis Vuitton looking like an ocean liner luggage carrier, replete with destination stickers and metal edge protectors. The Shanghainese enjoy having their high-end stores looking expensive.
A week after I shot this photo, the trim was installed. All the store needs now is a grand opening, and hordes of Mandarin speaking, non-local country cousins pillaging shelves in search of the perfect gift to sweeten that business deal. Monsieur Vuitton must be pirouetting.
DFChrist in China
An unexpected find on FuXing Road, in a women's apparel shop. A framed image of the Christ, looking down on her business. Completely unexpected, and I stood there for an instant, not in shock, but in pleasant contemplation. Who knows - she might not even have been religious. But 50 years ago, it'd be a very different, very red image looking down instead.
DFSunday, May 9, 2010
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Pulling hard
I'm writing as I watch a just-released Chinese film set during the anti-Japanese war, old Shanghai. How appropriate. This photo shows a very well-known building in Shanghai, very old. It's a neighbourhood that my mother used to frequent as a young girl. The characters describe the name of the company - this building used to be the site of a publisher of children's books, Madame Song Qing-Ling being the proprietor. These men working hard, carting construction materials no doubt. Amidst the traffic, the bustle, a glimpse of the old at work. Good men.
DFFriday, May 7, 2010
Post No. 1601
Today's notable, for many things. For one, it's my 20th anniversary of landing in Toronto. Yes, on May 7, 1990, I was but a 4 year old, immigrating to Canada. How appropriate, that we pass this milestone after such an incredible trip back to the Motherland. Glad that I was able to celebrate with friends, dinner at the Drake Hotel, a beautiful skirt steak and fries. Satisfying, all around.
Yes, so I'm still sorting out my Shanghai photos. Lots of stories to share, lots of great experiences. Over the next month or so, I'll be steadily pushing those pieces out. A life-changing experience? I don't know about that. But I certainly saw, heard, and tasted many, many new things.
One thing that still grinds on me - I have yet to celebrate my 24th birthday. Going up to Niagara next weekend...maybe that'll make up for it.
DFPudong, Shanghai
And on the eastern shore of the HuangPu River, facing The Bund, the skyline of Pudong. A completely different character, the modern and exciting face of the new China. A few notable landmarks, starting from the left - the Oriental Pearl Tower being the most widely recognized. In the middle, the two tallest buildings are JinMao Tower, and the newly built Shanghai World Financial Centre. A third building will soon be erected alongside, reaching even higher to complete the SWFC, becoming one of the highest structures in the world.
A humid, rainy day when we walked along The Bund. This is what it actually looked like - you could barely make out the tops of the buildings. I suppose I could process the photos to show more definition, but I'm neither talented, or kitsch enough to do so. The old barge slowly making its way up the Huangpu River adds a nice touch.
DFThursday, May 6, 2010
The Bund, Shanghai
The Bund, the most magnificent waterfront in the world. A series of historical buildings on the western shore of the HuangPu River, this area was formerly a foreign enclave, housing numerous banks and trading houses from the United Kingdom, France, United States of America, Russia, Germany, Japan, the Netherlands, and Belgium, as well as the Shanghai Club, and the Masonic Club. It's been under heavy renovation for the past few years - I haven't been to this area in 6 years, owing to the amount of construction. The boardwalk lining the river has been raised a few metres, to assist in efforts to clean the HuangPu River, and as you can see, the concrete and benches are brand new.
The buildings have also been touched up, with floodlights illuminating the entire strip at night. In the foreground is the HSBC Building, followed by the Customs House, featuring those iconic clocks. Next is the Bank of Communications Building, followed by the Russo-Chinese Bank. They were built in the late 19th centure to early 20th century, and feature architectural styles such as Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical, Beaux-Arts, and Art Deco, with Shanghai possessing one of the richest collections of Art Deco architectures in the world. Grand - not many cities of the world share such a glorious past. Old Shanghai, at its most majestic.
DFWednesday, May 5, 2010
Night lights
Shanghai does this better than anyone. It's so, so easy for street lights to turn kitschy, but these just seem elegant, proper. But really, the true art is in the hanging. A fortune must have been spent on draping all those beautiful trees, and installing floodlights on the buildings. Beautiful brights and lights.
DFTree lined and old
One thing I love about this city is the tree lined boulevards, in all the old districts. Beautifully erect, tall trees, lined up perfectly. Too bad they aren't particularly healthy, but it would be such a shame to uproot them - Huai Hai Road without her timbers standing guard would be just another dusty, busy street.
DFPiano and strings with your Van Cleef & Arpels
We were walking through another mall, and the way these are built here really struck me - aside from how glitzy the stores inside are (look along the bottom left side), these structures are architectural wonders themselves. Bright skylight, contrasting levels and elevator banks, marble floors - really overwhelming in fact. Of course, I was the only moron caught gawking at how massive the mall was, craning my neck like an out-of-town bumpkin. And then...the piano and string quartet began playing. A perfect accompaniment to a leisurely afternoon of strolling and fine Swiss timepieces.
DFBeing grand
Everywhere in Shanghai, in the swankiest neighbourhoods, can be found grand monuments to China's newfound consumerism. The shopping mall, taken to a whole new level. Look at this - multi-level, bright lights, makeup station and Mercedes Benz showroom in the lobby. Grand, any way you look at it. And there's going to be a Club Monaco opening up soon!
DFTuesday, May 4, 2010
Green in the city
There are lots of trees, plants, and general greens planted in Shanghai. Looks pretty, but I was reminded that these things don't just sprout out of the ground. Strolling around a busy neighbourhood our first week there, I saw these women busy planting the shrubs. I also saw a lot of workers spraying fertilizer all over the city, over plants and grass. One wonders - with such use of chemicals, and its obvious effects on the environment, are these aesthetics worth it, in the long run? Sure it looks nice, but at what cost?
DFMonday, May 3, 2010
Leaving on a jet plane
Let's start from the beginning. Walking into Pearson Airport's Terminal 1, we saw an old friend once again - Richard Serra's Tilted Spheres. Beautiful, and while my mother went shopping at duty-free, I walked around and took some photos. Sort of a roaring curved wall, completely surrounding you if you venture inside. A nice little familiar sight, seeing us off on our 15 hour direct flight to Shanghai's Pudong International Airport. The flight was an ordeal, and it took us some time to get through Chinese customs, but we made it out. And then the real ordeal began.
DFSunday, May 2, 2010
Well, I'm back
Shanghai is magnificent. Truly one of the great cities of the world, in many ways. I've kept a journal, taking detailed notes daily. I'll be more reflective later on, when I've distanced myself a bit more from this trip. I took less photos than I thought - 1298, about half of what I expected.
I've got nothing profound to write, at least today. The 2010 World Exposition has finally begun. Impressive all around, photos of the grounds and pavilions to follow. We were entertained quite often, and although I've gained some inspiration, culinary-wise, I gained more insight into how Shanghainese tastes run. The drinking was certainly fun. Nothing makes you feel more manly than polishing off a few bottles of fortified rice wine and still have the presence of mind to find my way home. I got sick a week in, badly. Not enough sleep, not used to the climate, unnaturally stressed - did I mention I was supposed to be on vacation? Still jetlagged on the way back, brutally.
Just bumbling on now, more later, when my photos are ready. In any case, this trip was very rewarding. Shanghai's my city - I feel an inexplicable connection with her, one that I hope to share over the next few weeks.
DF
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Monday, April 5, 2010
Until we see each other again...
I leave for Shanghai tomorrow morning. It's going to be a difficult trip - we'll be burying my grandfather. I jump at the chance to visit the motherland, but not under these circumstances. No, not like this.
I haven't been thinking about this trip - no itinerary planned, no activities, not sure of the places I want to visit. We'll see what happens when we get there. What I do have is my camera - looking to really put my wide angle to good use. And of course, a big part of this trip is going to be the food that's coming into season. Lots of copious note-taking, lots of photos, and hopefully, I'll come back from the trip with new culinary inspiration.
Blogging is not going to happen while I'm there. I'm certain of it. Will be missing the start of En Primeur madness in Bordeaux, but that's ok. I've heard of some interesting wine bars and shops opening in Shanghai - guess I'll have to see for myself. World Expo 2010 opening soon as well. So, mes amis, hope everyone stays well as we head into spring...I'll see you in a month.
DF2008 Nahe
This is a discovery for me. My first time tasting a wine of Nahe, Germany. For riesling, this region certainly sits in the shadow of its big brothers - southeast of the Mosel, and southwest of the Rheingau, Nahe rieslings are said to combine the best aspects of its more famous brethren - the steely slate minerality of the Mosel, with the richness of the Rheingau.
Certainly proves its worth - this wine is spectacular. Very pale colour, nearly clear at the rim. While very young, the bouquet shows a lot of slate, lots of pure minerals, and citrus fruit. Undeniably German, and can go with the best of young Mosel wines. Even shows a touch of green. Very complex, very well defined aromas, especially in a young wine. Palate shows great balance, with very high acidity. Finishes a bit coarse, but this wine will age beautifully.
This wine is the epitome of precision. Focused, bright, pure riesling. Very, very impressive indeed.
DF
1983 Rheingau
1983 Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett, Winkeler Jesuitengarten, QmP Rheingau
I've drunk this wine before. This being the last bottle I had, the plan was to drink it over the summer, maybe as part of a comprehensive look at '80's and early '90's reislings. But, this being my last weekend in Toronto...wine's meant for drinking right?
I love these old riesling. Golden in colour, with orange flecks at the rim, showing an incredibly focused bouquet of oily minerality, stewed apples, pears. Follows through on the palate, good sweetness, very harmonious, very balanced. Great length on the finish. I could drink these wines forever.
DFLook at the colour!
Just one more...indulge me. Look at how dramatic the colour of red wine changes as it matures. Which one would you instinctively go for, without knowing what was in each glass?
DF1985 Rioja
1985 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva, DOCa Rioja
Second wine of the night, and clearly the most spectacular wine I've drank this year. Unfortunately, I don't have the opportunity to drink a lot of old wines, and this release was one I was going to buy, regardless of price. From the same producer as the last wine, the 2004 Coto de Imaz. The only difference (besides vintage) was that this wine was a Gran Reserva, implying a longer aging period, both in oak barrel and in the bottle, before the wine was released.
With these older wines, you have to temper your expectations. I wanted really hard to just fall in love, but I had to remind myself that this wine was a year older than I was. Thankfully, there was no need for any trepidation - the wine was spectacular. Shows a very mature colour, all brick red, amber edges, deep orange/red at the core. Holds onto its saturation very well - still showing colour at the rim. The bouquet was stunning. My goodness. Showing a lot of stewed strawberries, very pure, gently aromatic and very mature. The minerality, the narrative connecting this wine with the 2004, underlines the still intense fruit. Focus remains. I'm not going to by hyperbolic and say how young the wine was on the nose. This was clearly a mature wine, clearly one over 20 years. What was so fascinating was its intensity, its focus. A grand old man with all his faculties of mind and body intact, but showing the wear of his years.
Very harmonious on the palate, elegant, showing the fruit aromas - stewed strawberries, plums, red berries. Very balanced, showing how special wine can be when all its elements integrate perfectly. Acidity rides high on the finish, leaving the faint impression of very fine tannins. Extraordinarily long, spice-filled finish. Yes, the wine is old, but still has lots of fight and vigour left. Easily can go for another 10 years.
The wine held up well over the 2 days we drank it. Remains focused - many of these older wines begin breaking apart with air. And with pan-seared steak...wow. Delicious all the way, the acidity perfectly cutting the fat, the flavours just melding and creating a symphony of lights on the palate.
A grand example of how important a wine classically-made Rioja is.
DF2004 Rioja
2004 Coto de Imaz Reserva, DOCa Rioja
Finally, onto the wines sealed under those corks. The first wine of Thursday night, the start of my month off from civilization. I'd been sitting on this bottle for a few months, just for this occasion - to drink alongside a bottle of 1985 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva, featured next. Same producer, different vintage...there is no greater pleasure that can be had.
Dark colour, deep red and purple, still glimmering. The minerality is very much the centerpiece, just a striking wave of crushed wet rocks, spring brook, and mineral water. This is the narative that connects the 2004 with the 1985. Fills with darker berries, strawberries, some spice. What a lovely aroma - at a very youthful stage, but there's excellent intensity, focus. Just sings of what classically made Rioja can deliver in the bouquet.
The palate is just delicious. Berries dance, but there's a tightness and austerity that's extraordinary. Tension in the wine, tannins are tight but focused, very fine. Long, spicy finish, beautifully traditional Rioja, with the potential to age in a very good way.
DFCorks, old and new
DF
Uncorking a mystery
Uncorking old bottles of wine...so exciting! Never know what to expect. Of course, it could all go so horribly wrong, in so many horrible ways. But when it all comes together, you're reminded why you do it. We're reminded why we spend countless hours, hard-earned money, and general health of body and mind to understand the mystery and the suspense of great wines.
Two wines lined up. Which one is the mature forefather, which one is the youngster? Pretty obvious, no?
DFSunday, April 4, 2010
Boozy
I can't remember the last time I've drank so much over a 3-day period. Going out for a long run soon - need to detox because I'm pretty sure it's not good to get on a 15 hour flight with a hangover. Pressurized cabin, cramped seating, ugly flight attendants, shitty food, and all.
We had friends over for dinner last night. Was talking wine to one of our guests, when we were rudely interrupted. You see why I don't like cooking dinner for more than 8 people? Anyways, good to see everyone again, and a great excuse to quietly polish off two 6-packs.
---Blogger's note, 4:47 pm:
So, just came back from my run, legs hurt, toes hurt, but otherwise, still breathing. Ran 10 km in 38:05.17, about 5 minutes off my time from a year ago. Good stuff, especially since I wasn't at my best today - not enough food going in, not enough water, alcohol still swimming in my veins. Hoping to get that time down to about 35 minutes, but a good start. The Don River ravine was full of people today. Which makes it a bit annoying - constantly swerving to avoid running over toddlers begins to feel like razor blades are attached inside the shoe, cutting into your ankles everytime you roll.
More wine tonight - finishing up a bottle of Nahe riesling...the next time I'll be touching any wine, it'll be in another country.
DF
On cooking
I'm thoroughly convinced that people appreciate subtlety in Chinese cooking. For our dinner service tonight, for 20 people, I cooked a few dishes. The star was asparagus, of all things. A really simple dish, literally 5 minutes. But everyone loved the dish, and asked endless questions about how I cooked it. Subtlety. There's no need for lots of seasoning, lots of different sauces and whatever. My goal was to express the freshness of the asparagus to the fullest - anything that obfuscates the natural flavour of the asparagus is a disaster.
Keep it simple. I don't understand why people don't get that simple, simple concept. That's why the majority of people can't cook for shit, no?
DF
Friday, April 2, 2010
Tasting greatness
Photos, and an in depth look at these wines, in a few days.
DF
Thursday, April 1, 2010
No more
My hits are going to suffer, but at least my pride won't. Please add me to your google reader, blogroll, etc. - it'll be much easier to follow my writing that way. Trust me.
DF
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Accoutrements
This is the extent to which men should accessorize their suits. Lapel pin, crown. Paul Smith silk handkerchief. That's it. If you use a lapel pin, don't use a tie bar or a collar bar. If you use a tie bar, don't use a pin. Simple concept. And don't match your handkerchief to your tie. Spare us all the eyesore and please, please don't match.
But you see how the way you tuck the handkerchief completely changes the character of your look. I stick to linen mostly, square. Sharp, clean, very dignified. But with silk handkerchiefs, having the points out just seems.......more interesting. More character. I don't use silk very often but when I do...watch out ladies. Watch out.
Photo, courtesy of ROKChoi. Many thanks.
DF