An hour and five to go...

I wonder how long they had to wait in line to get into the Australia Pavilion? This is my last image of the 2010 World Expo. As we were there on April 20th to preview, nearly all of the international pavilions were still undergoing construction. Australia was the only one open. So this is what happens. Hope the wait was worth it.

Touring the Expo was exciting. The event completely changed the face of Shanghai - the improvements to her infrastructure will be the Expo's lasting legacy. So, in a year or so when I return...will most certainly be back to visit.

DF

Alert and cautious

Security at the 2010 World Expo is present, but never intrusive. No sinister gunmen in green fatigues stalking the grounds.

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Just epic

Ringing the grounds of the 2010 World Expo is a raised walkway, affording you a grand view of the entire spectacle. The roads were just pristine. Weather, tristemente, not so much.

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A little lonely

In light of what's been happening in the Korean peninsula these past few weeks, let's contrast the two opposing pvailions at the 2010 World Expo. The previous photo showed how splendid the South Korea Pavilion was designed and built. Now look at the North Korea Pavilion. Staid, Stalin-esque........and more than a bit lonely, no?

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Doing it big, in USD

The South Korea Pavilion at the 2010 World Expo. Really interesting to see how political relationships manifest themselves in the scope of the pavilions here. Look at this design - just fascinating in not only its shape, but the texture to the walls, like those collages made up of a million tiny images. Not to say that there's an American influence in the South Korean's exhibit, but I'm willing to bet that the cheque was cut in U.S. dollars......

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Pointing in the right direction

Every major international event needs volunteers - these are the great people working at the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. Tirelessly pointing idiot visitors to pavilions easily found on the clearly labeled signs and free maps. The uniforms are hideous, but their hearts are in the right place.

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Exquisite beauty

I'm a little drunk right now, so this one's gonna be good.

Each of the China Provincial Pavilions had a group of young beauties serving as guides. I'm pretty sure they weren't models - the Chinese have a habit of selecting only university students, screening for certain physical attributes (age, height, facial symmetry). This young lady was from ShanXi province, and working in its respective pavilion.

She's beautiful, no? Just a picture of grace, exquisite and genteel. Chinese men have a stupid habit of ignoring girls they're clearly ogling. I'm not one of them, so I spent some time talking to her and eventually asked her for a photo. I'm pretty sure these girls receive extensive training on how to deal with visitors, because her poise was extraordinary. In love. Alas......alas. Have many stories to tell about the girls I met during my trip, but none of them end very well. Will save them for another drunken night.

She's exquisite, and I'm clearly living in the wrong city.

DF

Hello Shanghai

Displayed in front of the Shanghai Pavilion is an example of the fine architecture that you used to be able to find all over the city. These were in the traditional late 19th, early 20th century style - the ShiKuMen type of building. Unfortunately, entire neighbourhoods have been razed for the sake of urban development, but a few of the finer examples have been preserved. Beautiful, no?

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Boiling red and spicy

The SiChuan Provincial Pavilion features what else but a huge digital hotpot. The chopsticks are just props - you press on your dish to add a piece to the broth. Now if they could recreate the smell of the lovely spices, chilis, peppercorns...that would be something.

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ZheJiang Provincial Pavilion

In the China Joint Provincial Pavilions, each province shows off a distinctive facet of the region. Here, in ZheJiang, bamboo sprouts.

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With a brushstroke...

In the China Provincial Pavilions, an artist was woking. He paints on these unfinished porcelain plates, and if you would like to buy one, they then fire it for you, giving it that shiny veneer and smooth surface. Do you know how much he was charging for that big vase? A cool 20,000 RMB. A bit excessive, no? I watched him for a good 10 minutes. His brushstrokes were hesitant, unsure. That's what happens when you try to commercialize an ancient, beautiful art.

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Swaying in the wind

In the China Joint Provincal Pavilions, clay charms gently swaying.

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In big urns and lilies

Inside the AnHui Provincial Pavilion, in the middle of the 19th century courtyard built, lies a traditional stone urn. These urns are huge - at least 3 feet across and about 4 feet high - they were used as the centrepieces of gardens during that period, housing fish and water flowers. However, they also served a practical purpose. Because they were able to hold a large volume of water, they were especially useful during fires, as houses were all wooden structures at the time. Here, at the 2010 World Expo, a more modern template is used - a projection, showing fish swimming among the lilies, as a digital thunderstorm raged overhead.

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Anhui Provincial Pavilion

The first floor of the China National Pavilion is occupied by the Joint Provincial Pavilions. All wonderfully designed with the cultural influences of each region, we're able to tour the entire country in one sweep. Here, we see AnHui Province, showing its contribution to traditional Chinese architecture.

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Red two

And another one of the red China National Pavilion. Look at the level of detail in the structure. A real triumph, in my opinion, not only in its design, but also in execution. Too bad I wasn't able to see it lit up at night. Next time.

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Red one

Another look at the China National Pavilion of the 2010 World Expo.

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Red beamed and strong

The China National Pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai World Exposition. So grand, so beautiful. It's one of those rare structures that captivate you once you see it in person. Wait until you see the details.

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The EXPO Bus

Showing a bit of welcome technology - fuel-cell powered buses at the Expo. They circle around the compound, and as you can see, are put to good use. When they stop at each station, the bar on the roof of the bus rises to connect with the rails you see on each bus stop, on the upper left corner. I have no idea what that accomplishes, but it is so very cool to watch.

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Porterhouse Pub

Found a pub right in the middle of the European area of the 2010 World Expo called Porterhouse Pub. Irish all around - people working behind the bar were mostly from Dublin, with a few locals. Nicely renovated, very cozy, I'd be very happy if I could find a place like this in Toronto. First time we went in, it was absolutely stuffed...no way you were finding a seat. Second time, around 3pm, after 5 hours of wandering around the Expo on an empty stomach, we finally found 2 spaces by the bar. Of course, starving, I ordered a Leffe Brune, a dark ale from this well known Belgian brewer. And it was wonderful. So were the chicken wings and chocolate mousse cake. Because as much as I wanted, I wasn't about to pay 200 RMB for fish and chips.

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Drip, drip, drip

This is what happens when aesthetics take over function, completely. I know the designers wanted these umbrellas to look pretty, but did it ever occur to any of them that the first (and most important) obligaton of an umbrella is to keep the rain out? Huh? Curved both ways like a UFO, with a hole in the middle, constructed in a porous, translucent material. The water not only comes in through the centre hole and fabric, the design of the thing ensures that water droplets roll over the edge, and continue coming along the bottom piece.

The result? Everyone sitting underneath is soaked with the dripping water. I was miserable. Because of the construction, we weren't able to go into any of the international pavilions. The restaurants were jam packed and quite literally out of food. The wind was blowing and I was battling an especially nasty cold. And we didn't bring umbrellas.

I hope the idiots who designed these have been dealt with. You know, just finished.

DF

Sawdust and grind

Everywhere we looked, there was construction still ongoing at the 2010 World Expo. Of course, we were there on the first day publicly opened, April 20. Hopefully, things have been wrapped up. No one was too upset that I was running around, shooting these photos. At the time, the work that still needed to be done seemed extensive. I've got a few friends that will be visiting in a few weeks - will wait to hear from them about the state of the pavilions.

DF

A familiar sight

And here we are, at the Canada Pavilion. Not exactly architecturally stunning, but at least it's a step up from the suburban mall that is the U.S.A. Pavilion. Seeing that red, those big letters, that almost maple leaf like motif in the wood panelling - yeah, I was a bit emotional.

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Lined up and dripping

Bizarre oil paintings in front of the France Pavilion, at the 2010 World Expo, just bizare. Maybe unintended, but it appeared as if the rain was causing the paintings to drip. The faces look almost horrifying up close, as if just oozing from decay and rot.

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Guarded and green

Outside the France Pavilion. The interior is said to recreate an atmosphere in the grand tradition of the gardens of Versailles. Too bad. I was hoping for one huge winefest. And maybe Sophie Marceau inside.

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City square

Inside the China Urban Civilizations Pavilion, at the 2010 World Expo. Yet another immersive digital environment, showing scenes from ancient Rome, China......an extraordinary installation. If not for the occasional flashlights going off, and the obnoxious tourist-types - I would have really thought myself in the middle of 5th century China. We were in the courtyard of a grand old home. There were even a few servants gossiping in the corner, as the sun set, shadowing over all the ornate roof tiles.

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Reflector, here!

A handsome couple doing their engagement shoot, at the 2010 World Expo, in front of the Spain Pavilion. She was very pretty, tall, statuesque. The groom? I think it's a bit tired to still be emulating HK movie idols. But she makes up for it, all legs and skinny shoulders.

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In trenches and piping

Again, in the China State Grid Pavilion, we see the employees dressed well - classic trench coats on green trousers for the ushers, green blazers with white piping on white trousers for others. Classic looks, very sharp, great looking. Now, who was it that said the Chinese can't get their act together, fashion-wise? This is what happens when you hold events in Shanghai. Cosmopolitanism was invented here.

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Arcs and flashes

Inside China's State Grid Pavilion at the 2010 World Expo, we're treated to a 3-D show. You're encased into this large room, wall to wall screens, and enough sound blasted at you to deafen for a good 15 minutes. A completely emersed experience. The room was spinning for me - just all lights and graphics. Beautiful, and an incredible display of 3-D technology. My knees were weak and this time, it wasn't because of the girls.

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Red cosmos

Entering China's Space Pavilion at the 2010 Shanghai World Expo, you take an escalator up. Tilt your head, and you see this gigantic LCD screen hovering right above you, displaying our own man in space. Yes, we're sending shivers up America's spine. China is in space, with our own technology and resources - inside, there were even exhibits showing off a proposed reusable spacecraft. With the U.S. space shuttles retiring soon and the Soviet space program non-existent, who's going to fill the void? A bunch of sandal wearing call centre reps launching out of Sriharikota? I think not.

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Brightly paved

The Expo compound is ringed by these raised walkways. Beautifully built white umbrellas, clear maps, really giving you an elevated view of the entire area. Only shame is the colour of the pavement. The white is so reflective that I couldn't open my eyes - the glare was blinding, even on a cloudy day. Making these sacrifices in the name of aesthetics?

I should have realized how vain the Shanghainese are. I am one, after all.

DF

Save the Mosel!

We need to save the Mosel. As I've written earlier, a few misguided German politicians, led by Merkel, have decided that it's in the Mosel's best interest to build a behometh bridge, right over this beautiful valley. This highway apparently is meant to relieve congestion. This bridge is going right over some of the greatest vineyards of the Mosel, and will also irreparably destroy the delicate ecosystem and terroir of the wines that I, and many many others, love so much.

So here's what you have to do - sign this petition. It's a last effort to preserve this pristine part of the wine kingdom, and we need 10,000 signatures. I'm signature no. 5073 - we still have some way to go. The petition number is 10681, and the Hauptpetent is Reis, Elisabeth.

Please, especially for the friends I've opened bottles for.......this is the least you can do. Click the link, follow the idiot-proof instructions, and help save the Mosel. If this monster really gets built, and we lose some of the truly great wines of the world - I don't know what I'll do with myself.

Just to remind myself of what's at stake:

1995 P.S. Baumler Becker-Erben
2003 Dr. Fischer
2004 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt
2003 Geltz-Zilliken

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Like cattle

The inevitable crushing lines at the World Expo, compounded by newly-trained security personnel. In line for 50 minutes, and this was hardly the busiest entrance - a more experienced group would have gotten everyone screened and inside the compound in no more than 15 minutes.

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On guard

Stepping out of the Shanghai Metro, this is what you first see. Two guardsmen, watching everyone entering and exiting the station. Over the 3 weeks that I was in Shanghai, I never actually saw them stop anyone for questioning. Then again, these Uighur troublemakers we hear about know better than to attempt something here.

A not so subtle reminder that you're always being watched. It wasn't until I reviewed the photos that I noticed the young man staring right at me. Good thing then, that I had quickly walked away. And good that they were only packing papper spray, instead of those 20 gauge pump-action shotguns I saw a few security personnel carrying.

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On the belt, now

I was not expecting this. The first time stepping into the Shanghai Metro, a jarring reminder of the heightened security around the whole city. Everyone's bag had to go through an x-ray, just like at the airport. Everyone. With an already busy subway system, you can imagine the delays this causes. But as I wrote earlier, the Shanghainese are enduring, cooperating to make sure that the Expo runs without blemish. And they allowed me to bring a pair of new kitchen shears I had bought into the station.

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2010 Shanghai World Exposition

Here we go, my Expo photos are ready. A historic event, the first time that the World Exposition has been hosted by a developing nation. The great city of Shanghai has been preparing for the past 9 years, spending billions. Her citizens have quietly endured the construction, the traffic restrictions, the constant media attention. But I have no doubt that this will be a stunning 6 months. The Expo has changed Shanghai forever, and I'm thankful that I was able to witness it from the start.

The official opening was on May 1, but through a bit of luck and generosity, I was able to get my hands on 2 preview tickets on April 20, the very first day it was opened to the public. Spent hours walking through the enormous compound on both sides of the river. Those stories, coming up next.

DF

Louis Vuitton, en Chine

A block west of JingAn Shi, a new Louis Vuitton store being built. There's a trend going on, where these stores are modeled after the branded packaging issued by each label - Tiffany & Co. resembling a giant blue box with a white ribbon top, Louis Vuitton looking like an ocean liner luggage carrier, replete with destination stickers and metal edge protectors. The Shanghainese enjoy having their high-end stores looking expensive.

A week after I shot this photo, the trim was installed. All the store needs now is a grand opening, and hordes of Mandarin speaking, non-local country cousins pillaging shelves in search of the perfect gift to sweeten that business deal. Monsieur Vuitton must be pirouetting.

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Christ in China

An unexpected find on FuXing Road, in a women's apparel shop. A framed image of the Christ, looking down on her business. Completely unexpected, and I stood there for an instant, not in shock, but in pleasant contemplation. Who knows - she might not even have been religious. But 50 years ago, it'd be a very different, very red image looking down instead.

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Keeping it green

Workers on The Bund, working hard to keep it all green.

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Pulling hard

I'm writing as I watch a just-released Chinese film set during the anti-Japanese war, old Shanghai. How appropriate. This photo shows a very well-known building in Shanghai, very old. It's a neighbourhood that my mother used to frequent as a young girl. The characters describe the name of the company - this building used to be the site of a publisher of children's books, Madame Song Qing-Ling being the proprietor. These men working hard, carting construction materials no doubt. Amidst the traffic, the bustle, a glimpse of the old at work. Good men.

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Post No. 1601

Today's notable, for many things. For one, it's my 20th anniversary of landing in Toronto. Yes, on May 7, 1990, I was but a 4 year old, immigrating to Canada. How appropriate, that we pass this milestone after such an incredible trip back to the Motherland. Glad that I was able to celebrate with friends, dinner at the Drake Hotel, a beautiful skirt steak and fries. Satisfying, all around.

Yes, so I'm still sorting out my Shanghai photos. Lots of stories to share, lots of great experiences. Over the next month or so, I'll be steadily pushing those pieces out. A life-changing experience? I don't know about that. But I certainly saw, heard, and tasted many, many new things.

One thing that still grinds on me - I have yet to celebrate my 24th birthday. Going up to Niagara next weekend...maybe that'll make up for it.

DF

Pudong, Shanghai

And on the eastern shore of the HuangPu River, facing The Bund, the skyline of Pudong. A completely different character, the modern and exciting face of the new China. A few notable landmarks, starting from the left - the Oriental Pearl Tower being the most widely recognized. In the middle, the two tallest buildings are JinMao Tower, and the newly built Shanghai World Financial Centre. A third building will soon be erected alongside, reaching even higher to complete the SWFC, becoming one of the highest structures in the world.

A humid, rainy day when we walked along The Bund. This is what it actually looked like - you could barely make out the tops of the buildings. I suppose I could process the photos to show more definition, but I'm neither talented, or kitsch enough to do so. The old barge slowly making its way up the Huangpu River adds a nice touch.

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The Bund, Shanghai

The Bund, the most magnificent waterfront in the world. A series of historical buildings on the western shore of the HuangPu River, this area was formerly a foreign enclave, housing numerous banks and trading houses from the United Kingdom, France, United States of America, Russia, Germany, Japan, the Netherlands, and Belgium, as well as the Shanghai Club, and the Masonic Club. It's been under heavy renovation for the past few years - I haven't been to this area in 6 years, owing to the amount of construction. The boardwalk lining the river has been raised a few metres, to assist in efforts to clean the HuangPu River, and as you can see, the concrete and benches are brand new.

The buildings have also been touched up, with floodlights illuminating the entire strip at night. In the foreground is the HSBC Building, followed by the Customs House, featuring those iconic clocks. Next is the Bank of Communications Building, followed by the Russo-Chinese Bank. They were built in the late 19th centure to early 20th century, and feature architectural styles such as Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-Classical, Beaux-Arts, and Art Deco, with Shanghai possessing one of the richest collections of Art Deco architectures in the world. Grand - not many cities of the world share such a glorious past. Old Shanghai, at its most majestic.

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Night lights

Shanghai does this better than anyone. It's so, so easy for street lights to turn kitschy, but these just seem elegant, proper. But really, the true art is in the hanging. A fortune must have been spent on draping all those beautiful trees, and installing floodlights on the buildings. Beautiful brights and lights.

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Tree lined and old

One thing I love about this city is the tree lined boulevards, in all the old districts. Beautifully erect, tall trees, lined up perfectly. Too bad they aren't particularly healthy, but it would be such a shame to uproot them - Huai Hai Road without her timbers standing guard would be just another dusty, busy street.

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Piano and strings with your Van Cleef & Arpels

We were walking through another mall, and the way these are built here really struck me - aside from how glitzy the stores inside are (look along the bottom left side), these structures are architectural wonders themselves. Bright skylight, contrasting levels and elevator banks, marble floors - really overwhelming in fact. Of course, I was the only moron caught gawking at how massive the mall was, craning my neck like an out-of-town bumpkin. And then...the piano and string quartet began playing. A perfect accompaniment to a leisurely afternoon of strolling and fine Swiss timepieces.

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Being grand

Everywhere in Shanghai, in the swankiest neighbourhoods, can be found grand monuments to China's newfound consumerism. The shopping mall, taken to a whole new level. Look at this - multi-level, bright lights, makeup station and Mercedes Benz showroom in the lobby. Grand, any way you look at it. And there's going to be a Club Monaco opening up soon!

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Green in the city

There are lots of trees, plants, and general greens planted in Shanghai. Looks pretty, but I was reminded that these things don't just sprout out of the ground. Strolling around a busy neighbourhood our first week there, I saw these women busy planting the shrubs. I also saw a lot of workers spraying fertilizer all over the city, over plants and grass. One wonders - with such use of chemicals, and its obvious effects on the environment, are these aesthetics worth it, in the long run? Sure it looks nice, but at what cost?

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Leaving on a jet plane

Let's start from the beginning. Walking into Pearson Airport's Terminal 1, we saw an old friend once again - Richard Serra's Tilted Spheres. Beautiful, and while my mother went shopping at duty-free, I walked around and took some photos. Sort of a roaring curved wall, completely surrounding you if you venture inside. A nice little familiar sight, seeing us off on our 15 hour direct flight to Shanghai's Pudong International Airport. The flight was an ordeal, and it took us some time to get through Chinese customs, but we made it out. And then the real ordeal began.

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Well, I'm back

Comrades, it's been a while. I've been settling in, back in Toronto, back home. It's been a tough trip, no doubt. Took care of business, but these trips back are always difficult. Catching up with family is wonderful at times, an ordeal in others. It's hard to remember not to be selfish and run out to explore my city and actually see some things. Because my trip is anything but my own, no? I have to capitulate to what other people want, always, because I can't be a prick and spend my money how I see fit. Am I that much of a fucking foreigner that none of these Oriental-isms make sense to me? I have to meet your lunatic family because.........why?

Shanghai is magnificent. Truly one of the great cities of the world, in many ways. I've kept a journal, taking detailed notes daily. I'll be more reflective later on, when I've distanced myself a bit more from this trip. I took less photos than I thought - 1298, about half of what I expected.

I've got nothing profound to write, at least today. The 2010 World Exposition has finally begun. Impressive all around, photos of the grounds and pavilions to follow. We were entertained quite often, and although I've gained some inspiration, culinary-wise, I gained more insight into how Shanghainese tastes run. The drinking was certainly fun. Nothing makes you feel more manly than polishing off a few bottles of fortified rice wine and still have the presence of mind to find my way home. I got sick a week in, badly. Not enough sleep, not used to the climate, unnaturally stressed - did I mention I was supposed to be on vacation? Still jetlagged on the way back, brutally.

Just bumbling on now, more later, when my photos are ready. In any case, this trip was very rewarding. Shanghai's my city - I feel an inexplicable connection with her, one that I hope to share over the next few weeks.

DF

By facsimile

I'm back.

DF